There has always existed an ongoing argument here in Los Alamos regarding whether or not the Laboratory defines the existence of the town. If LANL closes (LASL back in the day) does that mean there is no Los Alamos? Or is it that without a town to provide basic necessities and services for a workforce, LANL could not exist.

It’s almost like a chicken and egg question, right? Which comes first? The Laboratory or the town? You don’t have to be a member of our community for very long to realize that our location is remote. This was deliberate. For the Atomic Energy Commission, yes. But honestly, it was also deliberate for the Los Alamos Ranch School. The whole point was the pull those city boys out of their overcrowded lives and let them experience raw, visceral life.

In this day and age we moan about the fact that very rarely is Prime shipping actually next day as it would be in most metropolitan areas. Back in the early days of the Los Alamos Ranch, the only vehicle was an ancient Dodge truck unless you wanted to go by ox cart or horse drawn wagon. If we think the Main Hill Road is intense now, can you imagine before there WAS a road and they were trucking supplies up the old ox cart roads in Bayo Canyon?

The Pajarito Plateau was never anything but isolated. The Los Alamos Ranch was incorporated for the sole purpose of supporting the school. Nearly 800 acres of owned land and access to thousands of acres of leased land. This was the only way to support the two hundred head of cattle, dairy cows, bulls (for breeding), work horses, riding horses, ranching horses, pack horses and mules, hogs, geese, chickens for meat and eggs, turkeys, and rabbits.

One of the selling points of the Los Alamos Ranch School was the fact that the boys were only fed food grown and raised entirely on the ranch or brought in from the surrounding farms and ranches. Of course, this took quite a lot of work from the boys, but there were also over a hundred employees who worked at the ranch.

AJ Connell didn’t take long to realize that he could not hope to manage the ranch without the help of the already well established homesteading community on the Pajarito Plateau. From the beginning of the school in 1917, he began to rely heavily on the surrounding communities. Until 1921 there were only three main buildings at the school. The “Big House”, a master’s cottage, and the infirmary/guest house. There were separate bunk house like lodgings for the cooks, houseboys, laborers, the ranch foreman, and the poultry man. There was also a large barn, a silo, a water tower, smokehouse, sheds, corrals, and a commissary to provide shelter for school activities and daily living.

The early years of the school only saw around 9 regular students. By the closure of the school there were 48 students. They were eating vegetables from the garden, beef from the school’s cattle, drinking milk from the dairy, eggs from the chickens, and getting their fruit from the Espanola Valley.

Gradually, the school began to grow. Teachers and workers had families. Cabins were built to house these additions. A public elementary school sprung up to teach the staff’s children. Connell had a habit of employing multiple members of one family in order to strengthen the relationship between the school and the surrounding ranches.

It all sounds familiar, doesn’t it? When Oppenheimer speculated about the needs of the Manhattan Project he talked about “housing for a dozen scientists”. This soon caused a steady influx of personnel and their families who had needs. The community grew to meet those needs. The family members took jobs as support and staff personnel, teachers, clerks, librarians, assistants, and so many other important roles that sustain and create a community. One feeds off the other until we have a growing, thriving city perched atop a plateau in the middle of nowhere…

Another incredible perk of attending the Ranch School in Los Alamos was access to men like Bences Gonzales. Gonzales ran the Trading Post and cooked during the summer camps. He was considered a listening ear who could shoot and would often teach the boys to fish. Gonzales was one of dozens of strong Western characters who both entertained and educated the Ranch School students.

Ted Mather was the horse wrangler. The boys were said to beg for his stories, which were straight out of a Western dime novel. He taught them to ride and handle horses, and shared his knowledge freely with the students. The Womelsduff brothers, Lloyd, Frank, and Jim were also vital to the ranch students. Floyd was the ranch mechanic and loved teaching the boys about mechanical and electrical things. Frank was the elementary school teacher for some time, and Jim was the ranch foreman. They spent hours with the boys helping them navigate the practical outdoor skills that created a basis for the outdoor education at the core of the school’s philosophy.

If you’ve ever been to a sports practice, a school concert or performance, or a Boy Scout meeting here in Los Alamos, you’ve probably witnessed the incredible amount of mentoring that goes on between adults and kids. Adults who are at the top of their fields, teaching and helping the next generations of talented people. A good number of adjunct professors at UNM-LA are LANL or contractor employees. What an amazing learning opportunity we have here. Just head to the Mesa Public Library and check out the latest talks, exhibitions, demonstrations, or other creative, scientific, or historical learning opportunities. I like to think of the Ranch School Students hitting the Trading Post, the barn, the machine shop, and the Arts & Crafts building after their classroom time was done for the day. Not unlike a summer day spent at ScienceFest.

There is no doubting the interconnected nature of the Laboratory and Los Alamos. But perhaps it helps to realize that there has always been a need for community up here on the Pajarito Plateau. And when you’re ready to join the community of Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to talk real estate with you!