Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Tag: Manhattan Project History

Peggy’s Place

Many of us know the name Peggy Pond Church. Margaret “Peggy” Pond was the daughter of Ashley Pond. She grew up on the Pajarito Plateau from the time of her father’s Pajarito Club venture. By the time she married a Los Alamos Ranch School Master, Fermor Church, she was already on her way to becoming a well known poet and author. Given Peggy’s long time love affair with the region and Fermor Church’s important role at the school, it’s no wonder they immediately settled down to life at the ranch school.

The “First Family” at LARS

The couple was married in 1924 and spent their honeymoon at Camp May. You can read more about that HERE. It’s probably no surprise that the couple was expecting a baby fairly quickly. They’d been happy at the school, but the need for a family home quickly rose to the top of the couple’s list of wants. With help from Peggy’s parents, they decided to build their own home.

There was no doubt that AJ Connell wanted to keep Fermor Church as a Master at the ranch school. With this in mind, Connell allowed Peggy and Fermor to build a small cottage at the far north boundary of the school, “inside the fence”, but far enough away to give the impression of privacy.

While the cottage destined to become “Master Cottage #3” did not originally belong to the ranch school, it sat on property which did. Connell requested that Fermor Church do a complete survey of the school grounds in order to clarify the legality of the situation. The photo below, (courtesy of the Los Alamos historical Museum Archives), is the first formal map of the Ranch School.

In early 1925 construction began on the cottage that Fermor Church designed for what was to be a decent sized family. By fall of that same year, Peggy and Fermor moved into Master Cottage #3 with their brand new baby son, Theodore “Ted” Church. Peggy loved life on the plateau. She once wrote that there was “only a stand of young pine trees between us and Pueblo Canyon…made it seem almost as though we had the world of mountain and mesa to ourselves”.

A Change in Protocol

Master Cottage #3 boasted a living room complete with a beautiful stone fireplace, two bedrooms, and a modest kitchen. The Church’s home had one more bedroom than the average ranch school dwelling, but that’s not what actually set it apart.

Master Cottage #3 was the only Master Cottage that had its own dining room. Connell wanted all masters to take meals with the boys. That had included married masters and their wives until Peggy and Fermor added Ted to their family. The need for a private family dining room in the Church’s Cottage made sense, no matter how strange it might have seemed at the time.

In 1928, Fermor and Peggy added a second story to their cottage when their second son, Allen, arrived. By 1932 the cottage still felt as though it needed more space so the Churches hired John Gaw Meem to add a stone living room to the northeast corner of the cottage. With another fireplace, a vaulted ceiling, and Meem’s typical exposed beams, the attractive space was completed just in time for the arrival of Hugh Church. Peggy and Fermor named John Gaw Meem his godfather. A fitting tribute to the talented architect.

Eventually the boys grew into active, rambunctious boys which made their mother’s writing quite difficult to accomplish in such a busy household. Fermor snagged some lumber left from a LARS building project and constructed a small writing cabin for his wife on the edge of Pueblo Canyon. The rough cabin had room enough for a wood stove and she spent many happy hours finding inspiration through the window of her “office” just a short 15 minute walk from her busy cottage.

By 1940, two of three Church boys were students at the ranch school and the once busy cottage was quiet. Peggy and Fermor moved out of Master Cottage #3 and back into a master’s apartment at the school. The savvy couple traded the cottage (which they still owned) to the school in order to cover their boys’ tuition. Cecil Wirth and his expanding family moved in for a few years before business manager, Fred Rousseau’s family occupied Master Cottage #3 until the Manhattan Project came to town.

Square Dances & Saturday Night Parties

Master Cottage #3 became T-110 during the wartime. Navy Captain William “Deak” Parsons, his wife Martha, and their two daughters moved into the cottage and remained the only residents until the postwar years. Deak and Martha loved hosting square dances in the Churches spacious living room. Eventually the cottage became the place for large Saturday night get togethers. It’s said that Kitty Oppenheimer didn’t enjoy hosting large parties in her home so Martha Parsons was only too happy to sponsor the weekly social event.

When the Atomic Energy Commission took over in 1947, post commander Lt Col Herbert Gee occupied Master Cottage #3. That didn’t last long however, and in 1948 Duncan and Hilda MacDougall moved into Master Cottage #3. MacDougall had worked as a liaison between his home Laboratory in Bruceton, Pennsylvania and Los Alamos during the war. This position required him to make frequent visits to Los Alamos and he chose to settle here with his family during the postwar years.

MacDougall served as the Associate Director for Weapons, and eventually became responsible for the Central Computing Facility and laser research. The MacDougalls remained assigned to Master Cottage #3 until the AEC’s dispersal of real estate in 1968. The MacDougalls opted to purchase their long time home at that time. Master Cottage #3 continues to be privately owned and enjoyed as a family home to this day. Something I’m sure that Peggy and Fermor Church would approve of!

Nothing represents the ebb and flow of Los Alamos more than the incredible history of our Master Cottages. Fermor Church was an educated man. In fact, he came from Washington, Connecticut and was recruited to the Los Alamos Ranch School after graduating from Harvard University. He fell in love with the Western spirit, with being a cowboy, and with a girl named Peggy Pond. He built his log cabin on the Pajarito Plateau just as the rest of the original buildings here in Los Alamos were built for a similar purpose. But as we’ve seen, these cottages became so much more. Now they are a chunk of real history still sheltering local residents of Los Alamos with a passion for history and the beauty of life in Los Alamos.

There’s no doubt that life in Los Alamos is packed with history and plenty of opportunities for adventure. Thanks again to the Los Alamos Historical Society for their valuable knowledge, the wonderful books, photos, maps, and other archive materials, and for their preservation of our history! And when you and your family are ready to talk real estate buying and selling in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m a hometown girl and I love to talk housing in Los Alamos!

Main Gate Park

There’s no doubt that the Oppenheimer movie has generated some additional tourist traffic this season. With all of the extra questions folks have been asking about the “old days”, I thought it might be interesting to dig a bit into the spot where traffic up the hill literally stopped. The Los Alamos Main Gate.

Main Gate Park

You’re probably plenty familiar with this local location. There’s a small, sparse campground there. The building with the facade on it is actually bathrooms. And none of this blocks the road or prevents any kind of traffic from passing through. In fact, if you just look at Main Gate Park and the tower on the other side of the road, it’s difficult to visualize exactly how the old front gate worked.

The Missing Pieces

So many times when we see historic images of the Main Gate, this is the image we see. An old car parked in front of a tiny building that very much resembles the bathrooms we have today. This historic photo from 1943 is certainly accurate. However, the background is entirely wrong. It appears that the clapboard building is on a skid that allows it to be moved around. It was likely in the middle of the street, which makes a lot of sense in 1943. But in the beginning, they thought there would only be a handful of scientists and some support staff. You might say that things quickly got out of hand and required a “main gate upgrade”.

The biggest missing piece of the original setup is actually the Petree Garden Center. As it is today, someone added more windows because it was a restaurant for a good many years. But when Los Alamos Landscaping purchased the building several years ago to become their garden center and a base of operations, I got the opportunity to take a peek at some of the still existing and rather ancient parts beneath the building that show it was very much part of the old main gate.

What structures, you ask?

The main “structure” that remains is an old tunnel that goes beneath the road and was used to access the tower on the opposite side of the road. The tunnel has some interesting graffiti. There was a youth group using it as a “hang out” at one point. Structurally speaking, it’s likely still sound. However it hasn’t been updated with any new wiring or safety egress for a long time so it is considered “closed”.

If you put the pieces together, this is what the gate looked like during most of the Manhattan Project.

This image is from a very old postcard. It shows how the Main Gain at Los Alamos used to appear when it was functional and the Secret City was closed to all but authorized personnel. The location makes quite a bit of sense really. Can you imagine what the view is like from that tower?

Since we’re talking about the Main Gate, I thought I’d toss in this postcard image as well. The photo is of the curve just past the Totavi gas station at the bottom of the hill. At that time it was called the K-195 highway. Some of you might remember when it looked like this. I suspect when the city was still closed, the road was much narrower and probably not paved. The ride up to the Main Gate must have been a nail biter for folks who’d never experienced mountain driving! It’s still that way for some visitors even though the locals tend to drive the thing like NASCAR.

If you’ve got additional information about our Main Gate, please feel free to leave it in the comments! I’d love to hear your thoughts. As always, I try to be thorough in my research, but there are a lot of pieces to the puzzle of Los Alamos and sometimes they don’t always fit together to make the same story. I’m a third generation Los Alamos resident and I love the history of this amazing place! If you’re ready to be part of our community, give me a call. I’d love to talk real estate with you!