Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Tag: Los Alamos History (Page 8 of 8)

Get Outside in Los Alamos

You don’t have to be in our community for long to realize that outdoor activities are one of the things we do best! Miles and miles of county maintained trails, sports complexes, and ready access to the Santa Fe National Forest provide hours and hours of good, healthy entertainment. But there are more than a few fun things to do that are on the unusual side and some of those have rather historic beginnings.

North Mesa Stables

Though the stables is listed on the Los Alamos County Parks & Recreation website as a “park”, it’s a little more complicated than that. There have always been horses on the Pajarito Plateau. In fact, the original “stables” housed horses used by the Los Alamos Sheriff’s Posse to patrol the perimeter of Los Alamos back when the town was still closed. You can read more about the Sheriff’s Posse HERE.

What you might not realize is that the stables originally occupied what is now the practice field across the street from the high school. There was a golf course in that area as well. With the expansion of Los Alamos and the building of houses in the Western Area, the stables was moved to a spot at 35th Street and Diamond Drive which is right beside… The Los Alamos County Golf Course.

There has always been some contention between the residents of the town and this idea that the stables are a bit of an eyesore or a waste of land that could be used for building houses. For that reason, the stables moved to land that is now occupied by Hawk’s Landing, then across North Mesa to what is now Broadview, and finally in 1952 to their current location between the ball fields and the Kwage Mesa Trailhead.

Several of the buildings at the North Mesa Stables date back to the beginning of Los Alamos.

This land was eventually given to Los Alamos County in 1972 by way of a quit claim deed from the Atomic Energy Commission. What locals might not realize is that this deed from the AEC designates that this land be used for it’s current purpose. Horse Stables. The process of removing the stables would actually be quite complicated. Beyond that, it would remove a really unique part of Los Alamos History from the community landscape.

How it Works

Let’s unravel the mystery of how a Los Alamos resident becomes a resident of North Mesa Stables. First, you DO have to be a county resident. The land is held by the county and licensed on a yearly basis to a stable owner for a fee based on the size of the lot. The licensee is the owner of any improvements on the lot, (barns, fences, structures). The stable owner is entirely responsible for the purchase, maintenance, and cost of keeping any livestock on the premises. If a resident would like to inquire about purchasing the improvements on a stable lot and entering into a license agreement with the county for that lot, then the easiest way to do this is to contact the Parks & Rec office.

Visitors

If you’re not into the idea of heading out to North Mesa to care for your livestock multiple times per day in all weather, that’s okay. You can still enjoy the stables. Visitors are welcome to walk through and take a peek at the wide variety of animals. Everything from horses to peacocks and so much in between! In spring you can even see brand new lambs and kids and perhaps a few new baby horses as well.

Looking to enhance your garden? The manure in the disposal bins is FREE to the public. If you’re looking for something organic to add to that garden, then look no further. Take your pickup truck or your garden tubs up to the stables and find a pile that looks appealing to your botanical tastes. The county uses the manure for compost so they do ask that when you’re strolling the stables, you don’t place your dog poop bags or any other waste into those bins. And if the stable owners seem particularly concerned about this rule, it’s because the county passes the cost of filtering out that non compostable material to them.

Ettiquette

As you’re taking your stroll through the stables, enjoy more than a few historic buildings sprinkled throughout the barns. There are two original homesteader cabins and several former LASL buildings as well. Feel free to observe the goings on from a polite distance. However, please keep in mind that the alleyways between the barns are off limits to the general public. Sometimes the stable owners intentionally keep an animal at the back of their lot because that critter isn’t safe to be in the public spotlight. If you see a sign asking you not to pet the horses, it’s probably because they do bite. These are privately owned animals and they come with their own bad habits. In a way, walking up to someone’s stable lot and petting their horse is a bit like trying to pet a neighborhood dog behind the fence.

If you’re dying to get a little more interaction with the animals than a simple stroll down the gravel road, there are several organizations you might try contacting for a more close up experience. The Gifted Horse Therapeutic Riding, Los Alamos Pony Club, 4-H, and Lemonade Living all have stable lots and support outreach programs for animal lovers of all ages. Get out and volunteer or join a club and you just might find a way to satisfy the horse crazy kid in your life.

In non Covid years, there are several Stable Community Outreach programs too. Stroll the Stables is an educational walk through during Fair & Rodeo Week and the Luminaria Walk is a fun twilight tour at Christmastime. During these events, participating stable owners open their doors and welcome visitors and questions so look for the signs next year and get out and enjoy!

As the conclusion of the holiday season approaches and we prepare to say farewell to Year 2020, get outside and enjoy the sunshine and blue sky. Take a breath of fresh air and enjoy this beautiful community we call home. And if you’re ready to move from renting to home ownership, I’d love to share my hometown with you and help you find a place to call home here in Los Alamos County!

Happy Holidays!

What’s With White Rock?

View into the Rio Grande Valley near Hell’s Hole in White Rock.

Los Alamos County is unique. No doubt about it. There are bits and pieces of local life that are so “normal” to those of use who have lived in Los Alamos County for a long time. Those same bits and pieces make the newbies scratch their heads with wonder. No doubt one of those “bits and pieces” happens to be White Rock itself. How on earth did a town that isn’t a town spring up on a scrap of land that is so difficult to develop that modern construction methods have spent the last several years blasting the ground and missing deadlines just to put a few fairly simple houses on the acreage between the White Rock Visitor Center and the Grand Canyon/State Road 4 intersection?

Here are few things to keep in mind:

White Rock began life in 1949 as a hastily slapped together development to house construction workers. No kidding folks, there were around four hundred prefabricated houses, spaces for privately owned trailers, and some dormitories. Homes weren’t wired for phone service and one of the big bragging points was that they had a gas range for cooking!

(photo courtesy of Craig Martin)

In Craig Martin’s fascinating book, Quads Shoeboxes and Sunken Living Rooms, he relates a story about a young boy who was burned in a kitchen fire. The poor mother couldn’t call for help, couldn’t access the family car because it was with her husband at work, and waited hours for her child to get treatment. “In the Los Alamos News the next day town managers said the proper way to summon emergency help in White Rock was to pull the nearest fire alarm.”

And yet, even in this rural “overnight town”, there was a commercial section of town that included a grocery store, a beauty shop, a barber, a doctor’s office, and a jail. There was also a school and a post office. Why did the 2400 residents of 1950’s White Rock get all the good stuff? Because the construction crews didn’t have a clearance and therefore could NOT get into Los Alamos to shop on the hill.

The entire development was situated on the land between Joya Loop, Rover Blvd, and State Road 4. The single family homes were literally referred to as “shoeboxes”. Yep. That’s right. Shoeboxes. By the winter of 1957 the new construction at the National Laboratory was done and there was nothing left of White Rock but a few empty streets. The prefab houses had been sold and moved elsewhere.

By 1959 the “critical housing shortage” in Los Alamos brought the Atomic Energy Commission back to the idea of developing White Rock. This time they proposed to Washington that they sell the property to a private developer. Two hundred acres to start, a thousand acres more in the future at (this will make you cry) a whopping $25.00 per acre. Houses were supposed to be in the $15,000 range to accommodate lower income home buyers. (Talk about appreciation!)

Sounds brilliant, right? Wrong! The FHA deemed White Rock to be too rural to offer mortgage insurance to home buyers. The whole project would have been scrapped if it weren’t for a bill introduced to Congress by then NM Senator Clinton Anderson. John McCone, chairman of the Atomic Energy Commission, pushed hard and in November 1960 President Eisenhower signed a bill to offer FHA mortgages in remote areas to promote growth and development. By the end of the month, developers were making bids to make White Rock a reality.

Noxon’s original plans for White Rock. Those who picked up the building contracts after Noxon bowed out have kept to the same general idea except the golf course out toward the right.
(photo courtesy of Craig Martin)

By January 1961, the contract was awarded to Los Angeles based Noxon Construction and folks here locally were perusing floor plans and looking at options for exterior and interior finishes. The cost of the homes was $19,000, but an agreement from the local utility companies to pay for the installation cut the costs by $4,000. But that was only the beginning of the story. See if this doesn’t sound familiar.

Craig Martin writes, “the Noxon construction project was fraught with troubles from the start. The dense, hard basalt just under the surface proved more difficult and expensive to work with than first expected. Street and utility construction progressed slowly. Noxon soon felt that meeting the 200-house stipulation of the contract would be impossible.”

Martin goes on to talk about Noxon barely breaking even on the homes and eventually being fined by the AEC for failure to complete his promised 200 homes. Noxon gave up the contract, two other builders from Santa Fe and Roswell took up the torch in 1964, and White Rock was eventually considered a permanent development and an alternative to living in Los Alamos.

The interesting thing about the original “Master Plan” for White Rock was that it included a police station, commercial center, golf course, an elementary, junior high, and high school. These were considered the necessary amenities of a town in post-war America. For those of us living in White Rock, we would heartily agree that those things are necessary. We just can’t seem to get anything to stick around!

Those of you who haven’t been in our area for long might not realize the various amenities that have come and gone from White Rock. The shopping center is where Gordon’s began. In the late eighties kids rode their bikes up to Gordon’s for ice cream and to buy the latest cassette tapes. WaterMills offered gifts and a full selection of Jelly Belly Jellybeans.

At one time we had a bowling alley. In other years residents could enjoy watching a movie at The White Roxy or renting one at The Film Festival. There have been many versions of the drug store, classic supermarkets, a Pizza Hut, a McDonald’s, and dozens of restaurants that have come and gone.

So, as we all continue to ponder the future of White Rock and pine away for things like fast food chains and shopping, let’s take a moment to be glad for what we have. After all, nobody is telling you to pull the nearest fire alarm and wait for the fire crews up in Los Alamos to get here. In fact, we have a beautiful fire station, a fantastic branch of the local library, and a Visitor’s Center that sports a packed parking lot through most of the summer (in normal years of course).

Things will change. White Rock will continue to change. And our remote village will discover a new identity for all of us to enjoy. And if you happen to be looking for real estate in White Rock, give me a call. I’d love to show you around.

The view from a house in White Rock is like no other!
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