Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Tag: Los Alamos History (Page 6 of 8)

Small Town, Even MORE Schools!

In my last post, I barely scratched the surface of where, why, and how our schools here in Los Alamos have evolved. If you didn’t catch that post, please click back and take a look. I won’t recap here, mostly because there are A LOT of schools left to cover!

Something that has always puzzled newcomers to town is the placement of our elementary schools. Sometimes their locations make sense. For example, Barranca Mesa Elementary serves residents from both Barranca and North Mesa. Yep. Those areas are certainly on the “far edge” of town and nearest to that elementary school. But why would the only Middle School in the county be in that area too? Honestly, I began my exploration of current and past schools because I was curious, and because I get asked about schools a lot. It’s almost the first question parents ask when they’re looking at a potential home purchase. So, continuing from my last post, I thought I’d focus solely on the elementary schools for a moment.

Mountain Elementary

The third elementary school built after Central School outgrew its ability to educate grades 1-12, Mountain was named by the AEC because… (drumroll, please) it’s closer to the mountains than the previous two school buildings. Mountain Elementary was built in 1950 and was the only “original” elementary school that did not eventually have a satellite school, but more about that in a moment.

Aspen Elementary

Aspen Elementary was number four. Built in 1951, it was named for the popular Aspen trees visible from the schoolyard. If that seems a bit odd in modern times, it might be that you never had an opportunity to view the fall colors from Aspen’s parking lot prior to the Cerro Grande fire. The name was actually one of the school’s most distinctive features. It was the first school named for a local plant species, a trend which would continue. Aspen was also one of the first elementary schools to receive a much needed construction overhaul. If you’re wondering what it looked like before, take a look at the other schools built in that general timeframe and you can probably get the correct idea.

Pajarito Elementary School

Built in the late 1950s, Pajarito Elementary school is located at the “top” of town on Arizona Avenue. The school building has been an office complex for far longer than it was a school. If you look at an aerial photo of the building, it’s possible to see why it was chosen for downsizing. The school was built during a population boom, but did not have the capacity to make it useful for that purpose in the long term. Why didn’t they build it bigger to begin with? During that time period, it wasn’t as much of a concern that all of the students assigned to an elementary school be at the same building. If they could find two classrooms here and eight there and maybe the rest at the main building, that was just fine.

Barranca Mesa Elementary

Even though the first homes went up on Barranca Mesa in 1958, the elementary school did not become approved by the AEC until the second group (subdivision) of homes on Barranca Mesa was well underway. The first students attended classes at the elementary school in 1962. The elementary school looks significantly different these days after undergoing a dramatic renovation in 2020. Considering the dates of their initial construction, it isn’t surprising that Barranca Mesa and Pinon were nearly identical in architecture.

Photo of the new construction walkthrough in 2020 courtesy of LA Daily Post

Pinon Elementary School

By 1963, the student population of White Rock Elementary was bursting at the seams. The AEC decided to build a much larger, modern school on the other side of White Rock. Of course, the name Pinon came from the rather excessive population of Pinons in the White Rock area. Realistically, Pinon was built to accommodate a large number of students. As Mirador expands, Pinon is once again absorbing a large number of students, a situation that will be addressed with the exciting new school remodeling plans underway in our district.

Chamisa Elementary School

Even with the addition of Pinon School in 1963, the new building wasn’t able to keep up with the exploding population of White Rock in the sixties. By the mid 1960s, the AEC was in the process of turning over a good number of public services to civilian control. The last thing that the AEC did for the Los Alamos Public Schools prior to turning responsibility for the district over to LAPS, was to build Chamisa Elementary School. The new school went up on the grounds of the former White Rock Elementary School, which is why many locals remember Chamisa as older than Pinon. According to Craig Martin, the first principal of Chamisa wanted to call the school Chaparral Elementary, but the AEC decided that Chamisa was more appropriate due to the enormous presence of Chamisa shrubs in and around the White Rock area. Even in their final moments, the AEC stuck to their naming formula!

Photo courtesy of the LA Daily Post

Satellite Schools

You don’t have to look far into Los Alamos history to see the enormous ebb and flow of our population. I spoke in my last post about the incredible way that our schools have tried to accommodate the student population without making it necessary to bus our kids outside the county. In the beginning, this had a lot to do with the nature of the “Secret City” mentality. As I mentioned above in my discussion of Pajarito Elementary School, sometimes students are educated in whatever space can be utilized for that purpose. Throughout the years prior to a stabilization in the population sometime in the seventies, the schools would often find or build “extra”space for learning environments. This need gave rise to “satellite schools” in the fifties. There were “officially” five of these schools, and most are still being used as “school” facilities.

Canoncito School

Craig Martin describes this very first satellite school as an overflow of Canyon Elementary’s population. The structure used had originally been built in 1947 as a laundromat and was repurposed into two classrooms in 1956. The building only had room for first and second grades. Las Cumbres currently occupies the original Canoncito School. However, just around the corner on Canyon Rd, Canyoncito Montessori is now a private pre-K school here in town.

Little Valley School

Little Valley was a satellite school of Mesa Elementary and also part of the high school at one point. If you went to LAHS fifteen years ago or more, you’ll remember the Little Valley building as L Wing. The building is technically down the hill and across Orange Street from the high school at the “head” of “Olive Street”. Olive Street is a trailhead these days and “L Wing” now houses the Family Strengths Network, which means it’s doing very much the same thing it always has.

Little Poplar School

Little Poplar was named for its parent school, Aspen Elementary. An Aspen tree is a variety of poplar after all. Little Poplar was located on 36th Street. It’s likely that whatever building housed this satellite school was either lost during the fire or was torn down to make way for housing.

Little Forest School

Little Forest is now a privately run daycare and preschool, but the building began life as a second satellite school for Aspen Elementary. One look at the current building and you can see striking similarities between it and almost all of the original school buildings here in Los Alamos. Little Forest was named for the surrounding pines which were far thicker in that area.

Little Sagebrush School

If you’re getting into the rhythm of naming schools, you’ll probably already guess that Little Sagebrush was a satellite school located in White Rock. The school actually served the original White Rock Elementary School prior to Pinon Elementary being built. A good number of you might remember a Montessori school in White Rock called Sage Cottage which unfortunately did not survive the pandemic. I’ve not dug any further into a connection between the names, but a connection is entirely possible. Sage is a common plant on the Pajarito Plateau, which is why the AEC chose the name for Little Sagebrush in the first place. The building did not survive the expansion of White Rock in the sixties.

If you’re still a bit turned around trying to see how all of these schools fit together to fill the educational needs of a growing Los Alamos, check out their locations on Google Maps. And if you’re still wondering how our secondary schools fit in, check back next time. I’ve finally made my way through the primary schools to the point where Middle School and Junior High meet High School and the Freshman Academy. And if you’re ready to move in or out of our amazing school district, give me a call! I’d love to talk education and housing in Los Alamos with you.

Small Town, Lots of Schools!

It isn’t difficult to understand the importance of “schools” when thinking about the history of Los Alamos. The reason Los Alamos exists as it does today is largely due to the Ranch School already occupying the Pajarito Plateau. The Fuller Lodge complex was quite literally the “first” school “building” in Los Alamos. This actually suggests education in Los Alamos goes back farther than science, research, or development.

The ranch school offered young men an education that most of us today would consider on par with one of the wilderness style programs often associated with troubled kids needing a boarding school with limited access to technology and modern comforts. Back then, the Los Alamos Ranch School developed work ethic, tenacity, and a can do attitude that was considered necessary for success in life.

The last class of students at the Ranch School finished their studies and left the mesa in January of 1943. The town of Los Alamos appeared as a jumble of hastily renovated or fabricated buildings within days and weeks of the students’ departure. A short while later, families of the technical and scientific staff arrived on the mesa. The ranch school was gone, so where did these kiddos go to school? The history and development of our nationally recognized school district might surprise you.

Photo of Ranch School students in front of the Oppenheimer house courtesy of Los Alamos Historical Society archives

Log Cabin Education

The first “school” serving a handful of children occupying Los Alamos in mid to late 1943 was located in what Craig Martin calls a “log structure” attached to the Guest Cottage. Considering just how rural most of America still was in the early 1940s, this wasn’t unusual. In fact, lessons taught at the log cabin school were probably pretty high quality for the same reasons we experience high quality education in our district now. Educated scientists, engineers, and skilled technical staff weren’t shy in demanding good education for their offspring.

Central School

Students weren’t educated in the log cabin for very long. The Manhattan Project build a school on the west end of the current location of Mesa Public Library. On a map, it appears in the area of where Circle Drive is currently located. The school was just that: “Los Alamos School”. It’s location on the opposite side of the mesa from the technical areas was chosen for safety reasons. “It was built in rows of rooms, each one a level below the other and connected by steep walkways (Martin, 1998).” It’s strange, but when I read Craig Martin’s description of Central School, it reminds me a lot of the High School building prior to it’s renovation.

Central School courtesy of Craig Martin

Central School got its name when Los Alamos outgrew it. The name came from its location in the center of town. Central School remained in use both prior to and after the war years. Once it was determined that Los Alamos would remain in use after the war, the Atomic Energy Commission began building additional elementary schools and Central School housed high school students until the current high school location was built in 1949. By 1966, Central School was outdated and no longer in use. It was torn down and the building materials were repurposed for other projects as often happened in those days.

Mesa School

If you’re not a history buff, you might have heard locals mention Mesa School, but probably have no clue where it was located. Mesa School was the first of two new elementary education facilities built here in Los Alamos in the late 1940s. The remains of Mesa School are now part of UNM-LA. If you consider the history of housing expansion in Los Alamos, Mesa School’s location near Western Area makes an awful lot of sense. In fact, it would be rather handy to have an elementary school in that area now. Considering the UNM-LA campus dates back to 1956 with the inception of the Center for Graduate Studies, its likely that Mesa School transitioned to its new “higher educational purpose” at that time.

Canyon School

The second of the new elementary schools here in town, Canyon School was located on the other end of Central Avenue near the intersection of Central and Canyon. The school was named for its close proximity to Canyon Rd and to Pueblo Canyon. For the record, this total lack of imagination in naming things around Los Alamos was an active choice by the Atomic Energy Commission. It has been suggested that the naming scheme might have been impacted by security concerns. Names reflected locations as a method of helping with navigation around town without the need for street signs. During a lull in enrollment, Canyon School was converted to Canyon Complex and now houses offices for professionals instead of schoolchildren. Canyon School isn’t the only school in the Los Alamos District to end up as office buildings, but more on that later.

From the side, it’s rather obvious that the Canyon Complex is a school building. The complex front which faces the new roundabout has had a nice facelift.

White Rock Elementary School

Remember that White Rock began as a construction camp for non cleared workers at the Laboratory sometime in 1947. The camp was essentially independent of Los Alamos, which meant it required its own school. While the school was called White Rock Elementary, it is very likely that the structure served anyone without another school to attend until much later. In the original master plan for expansion of White Rock in the 1960s, an elementary and a junior high were located just off Sherwood Blvd with a senior high school proposed to be built on the other side of town. None of those plans came to fruition however, and the original White Rock Elementary served students until construction of Pinon Elementary in 1963.

As we come to the end of this post, you might be wondering how we can dive into the history of schools in Los Alamos while barely touching on any of the familiar schools our kids attend today. Well, stay tuned! Perhaps the one thing we don’t appreciate enough is the sheer flexibility of our school district. So many towns with similar isolated locations with variable populations gave up on the notion of being able to educate their young people without the help of larger populations in other towns and cities. Los Alamos has never done that. In spite of some enormous ups and downs in population, resources, and changes in educational trends and requirements nationwide, our schools strive to exceed expectations in every way possible.

So check back next week for more information on schools here in Los Alamos, past and present. And when you’re ready to talk housing in the Los Alamos School District, give me a call. I’m your hometown real estate broker!

It Used to be Cool, I Swear!

There’s no doubt that aging causes us to think this phrase, if not say it, far more often than we’re comfortable with. As I was driving past the now almost completely leveled Hilltop House Hotel, I couldn’t help but wonder if those residents in town who have been so adamant that the place needed to go realize that the Hilltop House really did used to be cool.

Believe me, I’m not arguing with the necessity of tearing it down. The place had become what developers sometimes call a “money pit”. A property that required so much in the way of renovations as to make it financially unrealistic to do anything but tear it down. Not to mention it’s location. This is quite literally the first thing of Los Alamos that many of my real estate clients see. But what if that view had been much different than it has been for the last decade or so? What if it had looked like this?

Perhaps that’s what I’d like the latest batch of Los Alamos transplants to understand. When folks first came to town in the seventies and eighties, the Hilltop House really was welcoming. In the seventies you might have met a friend (or even your Realtor!) at the Hilltop Coffee Shop. By 1979 you’d have been meeting your Realtor at the Real Estate Associates office, which went in where the coffee shop was.

Remember phone books? How about those big names in Los Alamos real estate?

The Real Estate Associates office was eventually moved away from the Hilltop House property. If you’d like to take a peek at it now, you can. In White Rock. The office portion of Herman’s Auto Body might look somewhat different than the rest of the setup. Probably because it began life as the Hilltop Cafe & Coffee Shop!

Once the addition of the second story restaurant was added by 1981, life’s special events were hosted in the Hilltop House Restaurant, later reborn as the Trinity Sights Restaurant. Bridesmaids in frou-frou dresses whirled around the floor with groomsmen wearing matching cummerbunds. Or if you grew up locally here in Los Alamos, you might remember taking your mother to the Mother’s Day buffet at Trinity Sights. This was a premier place to experience Prime Rib Sunday as well.

The view from the Hilltop House Restaurant was always stunning!

What so many of us don’t realize is that the Hilltop House is literally soaked in Los Alamos history. The hotel itself was built by the Waterman family. Most of us are familiar with Roger Waterman and TRK Management, but we might not know that the Watermans had quite a long history of hotel and hospitality in Los Alamos. Wendy Hoffman wrote a lovely article in the LA Daily Post earlier this year about the creativity the Watermans brought to their construction business. But if you look at the overhead beams in the photograph of Trinity Sights above and think to yourself, “hmm, how very church like!”, you’d be absolutely correct. Waterman salvaged those lovely beams from a church demo project elsewhere in New Mexico and thought they might make a very classy edition to the restaurant upgrade.

Photo from spring 1999 with the new Conoco station visible on the right.

I don’t think we often appreciate the amazing flexibility of the Hilltop House. At one point a movie production company approached the hotel about needing rooms for production crew. At the time the 42 room hotel couldn’t have handled that many people. But quick thinking on the part of the Watermans utilized salvage from other projects to expand the hotel to 92 rooms. The restaurant was enlarged because the existing cafe wasn’t enough to provide for such a large number of guests, and with a lot of can do attitude the hotel made it work!

Hilltop House Annex ~ The building’s facade was intentionally matched to the existing hotel.

This wasn’t an unusual occurrence for the Hilltop House. In the mid eighties, the hotel acquired what was called the Hilltop House Annex at 464 Central Avenue. These apartments were furnished and maintained as an extended stay facility for those who needed a place to call home while shopping for a permanent residence, or those who were here in Los Alamos on business for more than a short stint. As a Realtor in the here and now, I certainly wish there was a similar set up now! The annex is now a standard apartment building, but still looks much the same as it did when the Hilltop House ran it.

Roger Waterman pictured in front of the Hilltop House

When Roger Waterman was asked about his feelings on the demolition of the hotel he’d spent so much of his life building and re-imagining, he was practical. He was quoted by Wendy Hoffman as suggesting, “It’s outside of the market, on the edge of town, and there’s nothing left worth salvaging. It would face some remediation issues, so if it can be replaced with something else, that’s OK.” Roger Waterman went on with pride to mention the hotel’s more than thirty years of being an integral part of the community here in Los Alamos.

I’d like to thank the Historical Society for the use of their archive photographs, most of which come from the Waterman collection. You can find even more information about the Hilltop House’s long history here in the archives. Also feel free to check out Wendy Hoffman’s article on the Waterman connection to the Hilltop House here. If you have any additional memories of the Hilltop House Hotel, the restaurant, the flower shop, the gas station, or any other of the dozens of pieces of Los Alamos that have existed at the Hilltop House, feel free to share them in the comments!

And even though my real estate office at Re/Max Associates isn’t located in that cool location at the Hilltop House, come and have a chat when you’re ready to talk real estate in Los Alamos! Give me a call anytime. I’m your home town real estate broker and I love to talk Los Alamos!

Get Dramatic in Los Alamos

If you’ve never visited the Los Alamos Little Theater, this might be the year to give it a try. If you act quickly, there are still a few tickets available for Clue. This stage adaptation of the popular movie starring Tim Curry and based on the board game would be a fantastic way to enjoy the dramatic talents of your local friends and neighbors!

It’s not unusual for a small town to have a dramatic society, club, or gathering of locals who just enjoy the heck out of a stage production. But most drama clubs don’t have an origin story quite like ours. Meaning that their production history likely doesn’t include Robert Oppenheimer on stage. (It was a non speaking role, but still!)

When you think about scientists from a multitude of backgrounds gathered together with the purpose of research and development on a scale never before attempted, you might assume any drama happening was of a suspenseful and Hollywood thriller like origin. But there was a common theme between the scientists, civilians, and military personnel living in the Secret City back in the 1940’s. They wanted to enjoy life. They built ski hills, golf courses, rifle and archery ranges, and horse stables. They created mountaineering clubs, explored the terrain, started choral societies, bands, orchestras, and danced every chance they got.

There’s just something exciting about going to the theater!

The Los Alamos Little Theater (LALT) began as a drama club sometime in 1943. According to the LALT’s own history, the first group consisted of military personnel, civilians, and scientists who had some or no experience with stage acting. One might even suggest they were just looking for something fun to keep them occupied in their off hours. They would send away for dramatic plays or scripts and then act them out for each other.

In the beginning they couldn’t decide what to call themselves. It was agreed upon that the “Drama Club” sounded childish. By the fall of 1943, the “Little Theater Group” was formalized with a board of directors. Members paid 25 cents each month to support the group with the hope that they would eventually be self sustaining through ticket sales and contributions from the public.

The first production was Right About Face. It opened on January 8, 1944. The cost was 35 cents for civilians and 20 cents for soldiers and WAC. The ticket price got you a seat for the stage production, refreshments, and admission to the dance held afterwards. Sounds like a pretty good deal, right?

Later ticket prices were 50 cents for the stage production and dance, or just 15 cents if you only wanted to dance. The first seven productions took place during the war. Oppenheimer’s non speaking role was in Arsenic and Old Lace. In the first 26 years of operation, the Little Theater Group performed an incredible 125 productions in venues all throughout the Secret City.

By 1971, Los Alamos County was considering the demolition of its Recreation Hall on Nectar Street. The building had originally been designated the East Cafeteria during the war. Fortunately for the Little Theater Group, the county fully supported their desire to take over the building and convert it into a play house. The county even gave the group the $6000 that had been allocated for demolition costs to use in their renovation. And THAT was when the Los Alamos Performing Arts Center was born.

Since the creation of the PAC in 1971, the Los Alamos Little Theater has put on over 230 productions. You can see a full list of their dramatic presentations on their website. Some of these presentations were collaborations with the Los Alamos Light Opera or the Santa Fe Community Theater. And every year on Halloweekend you can enjoy a fully interactive version of The Rocky Horror Picture Show starring your friends and neighbors from around town.

If you’ve ever been interested in drama, it might be time to check out the LALT. Volunteers are always welcome. Whether you crave an opportunity to be on stage or you enjoy the action behind the scenes, this could be the niche you’ve been looking for here in Los Alamos. And when you’re ready to join our unique community, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos Real Estate with you.

Musical Houses in Los Alamos

If you’re looking at the title of this post and thinking of pleasant sounding chamber music on your home stereo system, think again. When I say Musical Houses in Los Alamos, it’s more comparable to the children’s party game involving chairs and fast paced music.

How many times have you moved from one home to another in your lifetime? Once? Twice? Twenty times? More? According to relocation expert Joshua Green, Americans move an average of once every 5 years. Green also points out that statistics suggest most people move within their own county or town.

Truthfully, Americans have always been rather mobile. Isn’t that why the United States became a thing in the 1600s? Perhaps we should all just be glad we’re no longer having to move via three masted sailing vessels or covered wagons. Considering how “easy” it is to move these days, it’s not a surprise that so many folks decide they want a change of scenery.

What if I told you that residents of Los Alamos in the 1950s were almost certain to move to a “new” house every spring? Why spring? Because every year on February 2, the Housing Policy Board recalculated the number of “points” accrued by each employee. More points meant a “better” house. Some residents called this process “musical houses”. If you’ve ever lived on a military installation, you’re probably familiar with the idea. But if you’ve ever wondered why Los Alamos has such a difficult time with housing and how it worked “back in the day”, then let me back up and explain a few things.

In an earlier post about how “rent” used to be calculated in Los Alamos, I spoke about what one early resident called the “curious experiment in socialism”. During wartime, rents were based on salary and not on the type of quarters you might be occupying. Interestingly enough, there wasn’t nearly as much drama associated with that situation as with what happened beginning in 1947 when the “point system” went into effect.

How many points would your family have?

The Housing Policy Board was created to meet and oversee the distribution of what was then, and will likely always be, very limited housing resources. The board was made up of members from three entities: the Laboratory (LASL), Zia Company, and the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC). Each of these three entities had employees requiring housing. Each entity was eventually given an “allotment” of houses. Prior to the completion of Groups 11-15, it was a bit less organized. Each employee had points, but any houses coming available during the year were also allotted based on what entity needed to hire what employee. By the time construction had been completed on Group 15, each entity had a set number of dwellings to work with. This literally meant that they could only employ as many people as they could house. Stop for a moment and consider the implications of that. It’s a very different concept from the one we’re used to today.

At that time, if you weren’t directly employed by those three entities, you did not live in “town”. In a previous post, we talked about the Zia Company. LASL itself was science staff and some administrative or technical workers. The AEC was a bit more complex. They sponsored living quarters for school, church and hospital staff, people who staffed businesses in town (remember they were all managed by the Zia Company back then), and anyone else who might not fall into a typical category.

A 2 bedroom Denver Steel would have cost you $35/month to rent in 1955. You would’ve had to have been a married couple with at least one child to have enough points for one of these!

Residents applied for their housing points when they were hired to their jobs. Points were given for two things: 1 point per dollar of salary earned and 2 points per month of tenure that you had. The number of points was established when you were hired and recalculated each February 2. The rest of your housing desires were determined by which “list” you were on. Those lists were where you could make requests because of family size or any medical needs such as handicap needs or a desire for first floor housing. A resident could be on any list they qualified for. Newer housing, a particular area you wanted to live in, anything you might desire. Each time a new house came available on one of those lists, the employee with the highest number of points on that list got first dibs. If they didn’t want to move, the second highest number of points got a chance and so on down the line.

If there were dual income households, could you combine your points?

Not really. You just got more spots on the lists. Like buying more raffle tickets. If one spouse worked for LASL and another worked for Zia, they each had a point value. Zia and LASL both had their own housing lists because each entity had their own housing allotment. So if you were waiting for a two bedroom unit, you’d get the opportunity to be on both the Zia and LASL list for the house you wanted. But you couldn’t combine your points to try and bump your spot higher on the list.

The point system was meant to make things as “fair” as possible. But the reality was that it created some rather bizarre situations. Such as what would happen when someone retired. Housing Policy Board records suggest that retirees were encouraged to move out of Los Alamos “soon”. Let’s just say that there were no returning employees on “visiting scientist” status back then. Either you were in, or you were out.

You didn’t retire and stay in Los Alamos in the 1950s. Someone else needed your housing!

And if one spouse retired and the other stayed on, your family might have to move into a different unit. If one partner worked for LASL and the other for Zia and your family was living in a Zia allotment housing unit, you wouldn’t be able to stay there once the Zia employee retired. You’d have to move into a LASL allotted housing unit. Unless, of course, you could get the employers to do a “swap”. Occasionally this would happen. But there were several notorious cases where it did not. The most notorious case on record was a widow with five children. Her husband, a Zia Company employee, was killed in a work related accident. She was employed by the Los Alamos County Commission. She made a request to her employer that she and her children be allowed to remain in their “premium” house in Western Area. Her request was denied after the Housing Policy Board determined it would be unfair to make even one exception to the rules. It sounds rather heartless, but that was literally how they kept the balance back in the day.

Most residents rather enjoyed the regular moves. More than a few residents were hired around the same time, married in the same general year, and subsequently had their kids around the same time as well. There are documented situations where families moved apartment buildings or neighborhoods together four to six times. Regular “musical houses” kept things fresh even if you didn’t get exactly what you wanted right then. After all, you’d earn more “points” and hope for a better allotted unit the following year. You made new friends, kept old ones, and all lived in the same town anyway. It isn’t unlike most communities today. Just because you move out of the “neighborhood” doesn’t mean you lose the friends you made there. It’s just an opportunity to meet new people to add to your group!

In the 1950s, playing musical houses kept Los Alamos feeling like one big neighborhood. But there are lots of reasons why life in Los Alamos is unique. And when you’re ready to be part of our small town unique, give me a call! I’d love to chat real estate with you.

The Craze of Sunken Living Rooms

When modern American consumers think about a home, their minds often drift to housing developments like Mirador in White Rock. These enormous subdivisions dominate cities throughout the United States. As you descend in an airplane in a city like Dallas, TX, you might see a patchwork of homes that all share roughly the same dimensions, a limited variety of exterior designs or colors, and perhaps even identical backyards with kidney shaped swimming pools or brilliant green lawns.

In cities like Albuquerque, newer areas like Rio Rancho have seen a similar pattern of growth. These properties might have buff colored rock in the yard and desert flavored landscaping, but the basic neighborhood outlines are the same. The homes are nearly identical. Builders generally have three or four models to choose from and from there, you get some fairly limited options when it comes to exterior and interior features. Even if you splurge on “custom features”, you’re probably not going to be able to tell that your home has custom anything without a close inspection.

Here in Los Alamos, we don’t have acres upon acres of homes in the typical “cookie cutter” design you might see elsewhere. There are neighborhoods like Broadview, Loma Linda, Hawk’s Landing, Quemazon, and now Mirador that might seem at first glance to be quite similar to the subdivided neighborhoods found in other areas. Then of course, there’s Western Area. Or perhaps you might consider the “Group” housing scattered across town to be subdivisions of a sort. But one of the best things about Los Alamos is that our neighborhoods have very distinct histories.

Long time residents might see “Group” housing as average looking homes while those who didn’t grow up with this style of home might think them odd. One of the things that has always made housing in Los Alamos unique is that even in homes that probably looked rather identical when built, years and years of creativity, ingenuity, and rehabbing or renovating has turned “same” into decidedly “not same”! Having had a peek at a lot of homes in Los Alamos, I can assure you that the results are pretty darned awesome.

Regardless of what you think of tract housing and modern subdivisions, there’s no doubt that Los Alamos has most certainly not followed housing trends seen in other regions. In fact, throughout Los Alamos’s housing history , great pains have been taken at every step to avoid the tract housing flavor. Hence my title reference to Sunken Living Rooms. If you were part of the Los Alamos community in the late 1940s, you would have been dying to get a Sunken Living Room. It was a rather unusual feature after all.

Sunken living rooms were popular in the 60’s & 70’s and are actually making a comeback!

In the late 1940s and early 1950s, housing was the constant social topic in Los Alamos. Norris Bradbury was very concerned about living situations for his workers at the Laboratory and there was no doubt that things were tight. The laboratory’s technical facilities were in the process of moving from the Ashley Pond site to their current(ish) location on the South Mesa. When that happened, residents were thrilled at the announcement of a housing expansion. W.C. Kruger & Associates of Santa Fe started planning in late 1947 and by 1949 the units were going up. The projected population was 13,000. Kruger was informed that there were to be 628 new units built at the rate of 80 units per month. Even by modern standards that is a ridiculous pace! But even at that rate, I don’t suppose I need to tell you that any possible housing surplus wasn’t going to last long.

It might have been nice for the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC) to come up with a clever name for this new neighborhood. But that really wouldn’t have been in line with Los Alamos tradition. So, in keeping with the last housing development of “Western Area”, “North Community” was born.

Group 11 was considered the most ambitious housing project in Los Alamos housing history!

The first “group” to be planned and built was Group 11. We’ve talked about how the groupings came to be called that in a post quite some time back. But for those of you who don’t know or don’t recall, Groups were established because of when a group of housing was built. All of Group 11 were planned and built in the same general timeframe. The fact that they were built in three areas of town just made it more confusing later on. The question of why there is no Group 1 thru 10 has been pondered by more than one person. Craig Martin suggests in his field guide to Los Alamos Housing that this is because there were ten different housing “groups” in Los Alamos prior to the first officially named Group 11. Let’s be honest. Shall we go ahead and be thankful that not all of 1-10 survived to now? I cannot imagine taking potential buyers into a Wingfoot or a Hanford House!

Group 11 was built in three areas. First on Pueblo Mesa in the vicinity of Orange and Nickel Streets. Second around 40th-48th Streets around Urban Park (then known as Slotin Field). Lastly across School Canyon on 35th through 38th Streets and Villa.

A few interesting facts about Group 11

  • Buildings were cocked at odd angles to the street to prevent the “feel” of prefabricated housing. The AEC actually told the contractor that if the homes were going to be prefab, they shouldn’t “look” like it.
  • While Los Alamos residents were clamoring for single family homes, only 142 single family homes were built in Group 11 because “Congress dictated that a low ratio of single-to multiple family units be maintained (Martin, 2015)”.
  • Previous issues with building Western Area caused the AEC to specify that roofs in Group 11 housing be pitched at one half inch to the foot. They also required the bathtubs to be anchored to the walls. It’s kind of funny to imagine what incidents lay behind these requirements.
  • On May 31, 1949 families who had lived in Los Alamos since 1945 could apply for the new houses. Open sign up for housing requests opened up on April 1, 1949.
  • Group 11 included five housing styles. Each unit had solid oak flooring, which still exists in most remaining homes today and is a huge bonus for modern homebuyers! Units had lots of windows, but the kitchens had metal cabinets that tended to invite condensation. Many residents described the cabinetry as “frosty” and “stewy”.
  • There were 13 two bedroom duplexes – 26 units – that had “Sunken Living Rooms”. These quickly became the most sought after homes in Los Alamos thanks to this “unique” feature!

What is a “sunken living room”? When entering the front door of these Group 11 duplexes, you had to take three steps down into the living room from the small entryway. The kitchen was also below grade level. The 2 bedrooms and single bath located in the front of the unit were at ground level. Bathrooms included a shower and a tub, which at that time was something of a luxury. For whatever reason, the “sunken living room” homes became the most sought after housing option in Los Alamos. Perhaps just having something different is enough to make a resident feel proud to call a house a home. This is something I find is still true today.

The Group 11 Sunken Living Room Duplex

In total there were 351 buildings in Group 11. This created 584 units of housing. The original project was to include 628 units, but budget issues caused a cutback in the number of buildings. That’s something to keep in mind when you’re considering the purchase of a home whether it is new or existing. The cost of building a home has always been an unpredictable thing. And when you’re trying to build a neighborhood, it’s even more difficult to manage.

Whether you like the “sameness” of modern era subdivision housing or you long for a custom home, think back to the post war explosion of homebuilding. This was the age of Lustrons and other innovative prefab home solutions. Everyone wanted a house and they wanted it fast! In fact, it’s not unlike the factors driving the current home market here in the United States right now. Sometimes the little things, like a “sunken living room” make a house you might not have considered before become the home of your dreams! And if you’re ready to buy or sell your dream home in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to talk real estate with you.

The “Company” Town of Los Alamos

There are a lot of little ironies about life in Los Alamos. One of my personal favorites is that the anniversary of Los Alamos becoming a “real town” happens to be on April 1. Last year, in 2021, we celebrated a 75 yr anniversary. On April 1, 1946 the powers that be decided Los Alamos would become a permanent research facility. The almost outrageous plan to house a “few dozen scientists” at the old ranch school on the Pajarito Plateau had come full circle. But the reality of operating a permanent townsite was much different from the tasks associated with operating a scientific laboratory. Nowadays our minds immediately turn to our county sponsored services. But creating that sort of administrative infrastructure takes time. Keep in mind that there weren’t even private homeowners here in Los Alamos in 1946. So in order to keep things running smoothly, general contractor C.D. McKee, whom you might remember from my post on McKeeville and other early housing solutions in Los Alamos, incorporated The Zia Company.

According to Zia Company records, by July 1, 1950, Los Alamos had approximately 2,800 houses and apartments on four mesas. It had 1,225 dormitory rooms, and 160 trailer spaces in its Trailer Park. At that time, any temporary housing was scheduled for eventual removal and plans for new housing had reached the vicinity of North Community. Any housing plans beyond North Community centered on replacement of wartime era prefabricated structures.

All of the current housing in Los Alamos. Any future building plans. Maintenance and management of existing structures. Public services. The Zia Company was responsible for it all.

An Excerpt from “The Tenant’s Handbook” Courtesy of the Los Alamos Historical Society Archives:

Responsibilities of AEC
Under the particular circumstances existing at Los Alamos, the Atomic Energy Commission has a responsibility to provide adequate housing for employees and their families.
Adequate housing means a sufficient number of trailer spaces, dormitory rooms, apartments and houses for our single employees and for our married employees and their families. It means also a variety of choice within each type of housing to try to match the desires and the income of individuals. It means essential home equipment and surroundings suited to a comfortable standard of living.

It might sound simple to say that The Zia Company oversaw operations in Los Alamos from 1946 until the early 1960s. The Zia Company further oversaw a good deal of laboratory operations until mid 1986 when the contract was taken over by Johnson Controls World Services. But nowadays, most modern residents of Los Alamos have no clue just how much The Zia Company actually did back when our tiny town was still shrouded in a great deal of mystery and necessary secrecy.

An Excerpt From The Zia Company’s Organization Chart:

Within the Divisions and Departments are listed:

  • Fiscal Division: Accounting Sub-Division, IBM Service Section, Cost Section, Property Accounting Section, General Accounts Section, Rental and Collections, Invoice Audit, Disbursement & Reimbursement, Timekeeping, Payroll, Budget
  • Special Departments: Radio Station KRSN, Lodging and Eating, Los Alamos Hospital, Veterinary Hospital, Mesa Library, Youth Activities, Schools
  • Personnel Division: Files, Records & Reports; Job Evaluation; Employment; Employee Relations; Training
  • Safety Division: Investigation, Restricted Areas, Heavy Equipment, Const. and Maint., Trans. Shops
  • Warehouse Division: Warehousing Section, Property and Records, Typewriter Shop, Fuel Section, Procurement
  • Engineering Division: Inspection, Civil, Electrical, Mechanical, Architectural, Field Engineering, Records
  • Maintenance Division: Work Order & Property Section, Building Maintenance Sub-Div., Public Works Sub-Div., Tech. Maintenance Sub-Div., Utilities Sub-Div.
  • Transportation Division: Dispatching, Bus and Taxi Oper., Heavy Equipment, Stationary Equipment, Parts Department, Motor Vehicle Maint., Machine Shop

Okay, first off, can I draw your attention to a few things just to give you a laugh? Under the first bullet point of “Fiscal Division” we have an entire section devoted to IBM Service. For those of you who grew up with a LANL employee for a parent, those decommissioned and auctioned IBMs were the beginning of our home computing experience!

And under “Warehouse Division” we have a typewriter shop. Until word processors became mainstream, typewriters were a hot item at The Zia Company public auctions. More than a few mechanically inclined guys with a desire to bring in extra cash would pick them up, refurbish them, and sell them around town for a quick profit.

Ashley Pond circa 1957 – Do you recognize anything?

Beyond these amusing anecdotal bits about life in Los Alamos, pause for a moment and take in just how important The Zia Company was to life in Los Alamos. In the early days they ran KRSN (the radio station used to occupy a small building on North Mesa), the hospital, veterinary clinic, restaurants, library, schools, youth activities, bus and taxi services, all utilities, housing, maintenance, roads, and the list just goes on and on. Essentially everything that is now considered the responsibility of our Los Alamos County public services, plus so very many private institutions such as the hospital, animal clinics, and mental health and social services such as those offered by Los Alamos Family Council, were all handled by The Zia Company. They even ran a newspaper. The very first edition of The Zia News is dated August 26, 1949. Employees of The Zia Company got the latest edition every other week with their paycheck.

The Zia Company wasn’t a typical landlord either. At that time, residents of Los Alamos had been living in furnished dwellings. Most people were not encouraged to bring much of anything with them to Los Alamos. This meant that a service contract might include not only your toilet and your kitchen appliances, but repairs or replacement of your basic household furniture as well. Can you imagine the number of employees and the corresponding number of hours it took to keep our town running?

While most of the actual furniture was long ago donated to the Historical Society or has been worn out from use, certain household items marked with The Zia Company’s familiar logo still exist in and around Los Alamos. If your home was once on the Zia roster of available housing, you may find their stamp on the back of a bathroom mirror or on non exposed portions of your cabinetry. If you ever go to replace any of these items, please don’t take those Zia marked items to the transfer station before you give the Historical Society a call. They love Zia era memorabilia!

It’s so difficult for the modern mind to grasp the way it was back when Los Alamos had just been designated “a company town” by the Atomic Energy Commission. Now we think of multiple subcontractors at the Laboratory. Many residents are employed by the school district or the hospital. Some employees work at the county offices doing administrative work or even hard physical labor with the Parks & Rec department. But when Los Alamos was new. You either worked for the laboratory or you worked for The Zia Company. There was nobody else. The work was still too hush, hush to expand the pool of contractors.

Gradually, Los Alamos has been becoming its own independent town. It’s taken quite a lot of time. And there are still things to be done. When I get frustrated with how long something seems to be taking, I remind myself that The Zia Company left some big shoes to fill. And thankfully, most of us own our own furniture these days. We get to choose what veterinarian we want to use. We go to hospitals in Santa Fe and Albuquerque for specialty services instead of waiting what might seem like forever for someone to be brought up the hill. And yes. We’re still missing a few varied goods and services. But all in all, Los Alamos is an incredible place to live with an even more incredible history. And when you’re ready to join our community, give me a call! I’d love to chat real estate in Los Alamos!

Welcome Home to Hanfordville!

If your current living situation isn’t what you wish it was, it’s so easy to feel as though you’re the only one searching for your dream home. This isn’t true of course. But our emotions don’t usually follow logical patterns of thought. Obviously you’re not the only one looking for your dream house because if you were, it wouldn’t be a big deal to find it. And if you’ve been putting in offers on potential homes and haven’t had your offer chosen, there’s a good chance you’re not alone. There are probably a dozen other potential home buyers who were disappointed that day too. What if there were 214 potentially disappointed home buyers? What if you were one of 215 families on a waiting list for housing here in Los Alamos? In 1946 that’s exactly how long the waiting list at the Los Alamos housing office was!

We wait in line for lots of things in life. Why not a house?

1946 was the year he MED (Manhattan Engineer District) contracted to build the Western Area neighborhood. It was supposed to be the ultimate answer to the housing crisis in Los Alamos. Except that the potential occupants had more than a few gripes about construction that they wanted addressed. By the time a task force from Washington DC was called out, the whole thing took a lot longer than anyone anticipated. You can read about more about that here. In the meantime, the MED started to get a bit anxious about that waiting list for housing. Losing the Laboratory workforce due to housing issues might impact the work. And as anyone who has been around Los Alamos knows, nothing gets LANL moving more than the possibility of inconvenience to the work!

Early housing wasn’t always pretty and didn’t necessarily include indoor plumbing.

There were several stopgap housing solutions. I’ve been blogging about these temporary neighborhoods for the last few weeks now. You can go back and read about “Morganville“, “McKeeville“, and the “Denver Metals” by following these links. There’s another stopgap housing neighborhood I touched on briefly, but these little beauties deserve a little more explaining. “Hanfordville”, as the Army newspaper the Daily Bulletin dubbed it, was made up of 107 prefab “homes” that arrived in Los Alamos after being moved from Hanford, Washington.

Welcome home to Hanfordville!

The blocky one and two bedroom units had been assembled in 1943 to house construction crews working at the MED’s plutonium facility. The workers were no longer needed as the Hanford Reactors were completed. The construction camp at Hanford was deconstructed in 1946-47. You might say that the MED needed to do something with the little camp houses so they figured they might as well bring them to Los Alamos. Another common name for the Hanford Houses back in 1946 were the Pasco Houses. Pasco was another town in Washington State where constructions crews for the reactor site were housed. If you haven’t ever looked into the link between Hanford, Washington and Los Alamos, you should. Did you know they have their own Manhattan Project Museum?

With diesel fuel currently rising to nearly six dollars a gallon, it would be difficult to decide whether fuel costs or the price of construction materials would determine the practicality of such a solution these days. But back in 1946 the MED decided it wasn’t such a big deal to commission 214 tractor trailers with flatbeds to bring 107 prefab houses nearly 1300 miles to be reassembled. Each Hanford house had to be broken into two parts for transport. It must’ve been a crazy sight!

Over the years Los Alamos has seen some amazing things go up and down the narrow twisting road up from the canyon floor to the top of the mesa. Remember though, when early contractors were tasked with building the Laboratory facilities back in the early forties, their first chore was to somehow build a road to haul all of their construction crews and supplies up the hill.

Before that, in the days of the Ranch School, there were several other options for supply roads. Historical sites in Bayo Canyon and out on Kwage Mesa show evidence of wagon trails from early homesteaders on the Pajarito Plateau. Seen in this light, the MED must have been fairly desperate for quick housing solutions to consider this an acceptable stopgap solution.

Regardless of the cost, the MED moved 107 Hanford houses to Los Alamos in 1946. A good number of the homes were assembled in the vicinity of Kiva and Iris Streets. Today this is in the general vicinity of the Iris Street Condos. The others were placed along 10th Street, Canyon and Rim Roads. “Hanfordville” was right next to “McKeeville”, which was next to “Morganville”. A likely question when you made a new acquaintance in Los Alamos in those days was “Where do you live?”. Your answer would probably be met with either envy or commiseration. After all, housing woes in Los Alamos are what made us all equal back then and even now.

Whether your Hanford House had a one bedroom or a two bedroom floorplan, you were guaranteed the same basics. You got a combination living room and kitchen. There was even a swing curtain you could put between the two in order to keep “cooking odors” out of the living room. The bathroom had a shower, a sink, and a toilet. And your bedroom or bedroom(s) were tucked into the end of the unit with barely enough space for a double bed and a dresser.

Residents were strangely positive about a few amenities we would almost certainly take for granted these days. An oil stove in the family room heated the entire living space and each unit had a three burner electric stove and a “modern” electric refrigerator. Considering the rationing of electricity in Los Alamos during the war years, that electric stove was living large in those days. Remember that prior to this, electric hot plates had to be purchased on the black market. Such different times!

The Hanford Homes weren’t super popular. In fact the quote was “they’re considered solid shelter”, which is rather frightening if you think about it. Perhaps keeping people’s expectations low means they are more satisfied with less. Another quote from an interview between writer Craig Martin and former Hanford resident Hal Kerr was that “the only problem was that when a driving rain came from the west, the place leaked like a sieve.”. Perhaps not a huge deal in all seasons, but considering the terrific monsoon rains we’ve been getting in the last few weeks, a dry roof over your head can become really important at times.

The Hanford Homes were never meant to be permanent. Thankfully we’re not seeing them on the current MLS and you’re not likely to be shopping for modern appliances that might possibly be compatible with your Hanford. They’re a part of our past and perhaps a good reminder that no matter how crazy we think the real estate market is here in in Los Alamos, it’s not nearly as nuts as it back when it all started. In fact, if you’re ready to talk modern real estate in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m your hometown real estate broker. I’d love to chat about your home in Los Alamos.

A Word About Los Alamos & Rent

There is not a doubt in anyone’s mind that the topic of rents, mortgage payments, and how much each individual is paying for one or the other is a worldwide issue. Before the recent fluctuations in interest rates, the historically low cost of borrowing money to purchase a home made buying more financially attractive than renting. Whether you pay rent here in Los Alamos or not, there are a few things to keep in mind. Some of these facts might make you feel a lot better about your current housing situation in Los Alamos.

How Important Are YOU?

While most of us are willing to acknowledge that there is something of a hierarchy attached to the importance of jobs, modern minds have begun to understand that the proverbial “rocket scientist” is really just as important in the grand scheme of things as “schoolteacher”, “doctor”, “lawyer”, and (for a lot of us lately) “fast food worker”. If nothing else, our experiences through the pandemic of not being able to go into a store, sit in a restaurant, or receive a package or mail because there was quite literally nobody to deliver it, have changed our values in a lasting way.

In the early 1940’s when Los Alamos was still a military installation doing top-secret work for the war effort, housing was assigned much in the same way it was assigned at any military installation. But instead of being assigned by rank, it was assigned based upon how important YOUR job was to the mission.

Of course, top staff members, prominent scientists, and other important persons were immediately assigned to Bathtub Row. The Ranch School Master Houses had indoor plumbing, decent kitchen facilities, were of a good size, and had the fabled bathtub. If you didn’t rate a Master House, you had very limited options when it came to your quarters.

The “Hans Bethe House”, named for one of its more historic occupants

Newcomers would be sent to the housing office, which was located in an old converted garage left from the ranch school days. They would fill out a form to establish their job or function on the Army post, and their family size. They would then be given a housing assignment and informed of what their rent would be each month.

A married couple rated one bedroom. Married with a child got a you a second bedroom. More than one child and you might get a three bedroom if there was one available. It was pretty common for Los Alamos residents to joke that nobody had better have more than three children at the most, and more than two kids was pushing it. Keep in mind that most of the three bedroom units available at that time were much smaller than the Group housing we are familiar with today. Ever considered living in your travel trailer with your kids for an extended period of time? Oh, and don’t forget that all of those modern conveniences available in your travel trailer wouldn’t have been a thing at all. Families didn’t even have their own furniture.

It might look fun, but how about doing it year round?

What Would YOU Pay to Live in a Shoebox?

The topic of Rents in Los Alamos really didn’t become a subject of discussion until 1944 when an influx of new workers caused the Army to hurriedly contract Morgan and Sons to “build” some 28 duplexes on an already flat and treeless section of land east of Bathtub Row. These pre fab duplexes would have essentially been the first housing in the vicinity of what is now Sage Loop.

Welcome home to “Morganville”. Doesn’t everyone want a coal bin in front to add to the curb appeal?

To call the housing project slapdash would probably be generous. There were eight one bedroom units, fifteen two bedroom units and five three bedroom units. The area was dubbed “Morganville” for the construction contractor. Buildings were boring and essentially identical and the streets were rigidly uniform. One resident was heard to call the houses “Little Horrors”. After all, the Army was desperately trying to make their budget stretch and had cut corners everywhere they could. These were supposed to be “temporary”. Why spend the cash to make them nice?

Morganville was really the first time that residents of Los Alamos had experienced a serious decline in the quality of housing. Suddenly the Sundt Apartments looked rather posh. And yet rents in Los Alamos were not determined by what housing unit you were assigned. They were determined by your salary.

The Sundts had their issues, but they were actually solidly build dwellings.

Kay Mark, wife of physicist Carson Mark, was said to have called the system of housing and rents in Los Alamos a “curious experiment in socialism: To each according to his need; from each according to his salary.”

Anyone who earned less than $2600 per year paid $17/mo in rent. While it’s difficult to imagine living on $2600 per year, that was a respectable salary in 1944. It’s equally impossible to imagine paying $17/mo in rent! But if you were one of the highest paid scientists at that time you might have been paying $67/mo in rent. Would you be irritated if you were a scientist paying three times the amount of rent for your cramped, poorly constructed and cheaply built Morganville house when a regular day laborer was paying $17/mo for a much nicer place in a prettier neighborhood?

It’s such an interesting system. And if you truly appreciate the evolution of the housing market here in Los Alamos, take a moment to see just how far things have come in some areas, and how they haven’t changed at all in others. It simply doesn’t do any justice to the history of housing in Los Alamos not to consider the way it all began. There is nowhere else like it and whether you fully understand it or not, moving to Los Alamos makes YOU a part of this amazing history!

View of Rio Grande and a home above taken from a spot near Hell Hole in White Rock.

The good news is that the Morganville houses are no longer part of the housing pool here in Los Alamos. And while we’re not paying $17 or even $67 per month for housing, the home prices are certainly beginning to stabilize in response to national trends in interest rates and home buying. So when you’re ready to talk housing here in Los Alamos, please give me a call! I’m your hometown Los Alamos Real Estate Broker, and I’d love to chat with you!

What’s the Deal With Denver Steel?

All villages, towns, and cities have neighborhoods with names that go way back. Most of these names made perfect sense in the beginning, but the meanings might have been lost over time for any number of reasons. Los Alamos has more than a few oddly named neighborhoods. After all, our most historic area of town is called “Bathtub Row”. But another one of my all time favorites is the “Denver Steels” neighborhood tucked just behind Los Alamos High School on Pueblo Mesa. Believe it or not, the Denver Steels has the dubious honor of being one of the very first single family home neighborhoods in Los Alamos County.

Original drawing of a Denver Steel home

There are a lot of myths about how the Denver Steels got to Los Alamos. Really though, they aren’t myths so much as blended stories about early housing solutions proposed and executed in an effort to ease the housing crisis in Post War Los Alamos.

Myth #1

The homes were shipped here from the Washington State area. I’ve even heard a variation where they were the previous dwellings of steel workers in Washington State, hence the Denver Steels name. Of course, this myth makes no mention of how the word “Denver” came into play.

The truth is that there were temporary houses shipped to Los Alamos from Washington State. The Manhattan Engineer District, or MED, was in charge of operations in 1946. While the Western Area was being built, which was a whole other hassle we’ll talk about some other time, the MED brought 107 “houses” from their plutonium facility in Hanford, WA to Los Alamos. The homes were placed along 10th Street, Rim Road, and Canyon Road. I don’t know about you, but I seriously wish I could’ve been witness to the caravan of 214 flatbed trailers trucking up the Main Hill Road, each with half a Hanford Home strapped onboard. What a sight!

Literally the quote from potential occupants was, “Well, they have indoor plumbing!”

Myth #2

The Denver Steels were originally military troop housing on a base somewhere else in the US. Maybe Denver? There are certainly a number of potential military installations in the Colorado region to choose from. But this myth is once again, not a myth, but a truth based upon another temporary housing solution from our past.

The military installation was Fort Leonard Wood in Missouri and the units were duplexes, triplexes, and quadraplexes. There were 270 units of these wood framed domiciles and honestly they looked like military housing. Each individual “pod” was 672 square feet. The structures were placed on Canyon Road, Manhattan Loop, and what used to be M, O, & P Streets in 1947. Currently those areas are in the vicinity of Myrtle and Pine Streets. At the time of their initial usage, these homes were considered the most desirable housing in Los Alamos. Yet the major complaint was that people wanted single family housing. Sound familiar?

There was a definite military look to these homes.

The Real Story

In late 1947 the Army authorized the purchase of housing for the military officers still stationed here in Los Alamos. At that time there were a lot of pre fab housing experiments going on in the US. You can check out my Lustron Homes post if you want to read more about that. But this shouldn’t be a surprise if you think about it. This was Post War America, the Baby Boomer generation was being born. Families wanted the American Dream they’d fought so hard for and they wanted it now! So the pre fab housing boom created some really interesting options.

Enter the Denver Steels. Or rather, the Denver Metals, as they were originally known. These units had steel I-beam framing and aluminum siding. They were fabricated by a steel company in Denver, Colorado and shipped in pieces to Los Alamos where they were assembled in record time.

718 sq ft of no nonsense utility – All were 2 bedroom and one bathroom

It might surprise you to know that the first 39 of these homes were actually placed over on Rim Road and Quartz not far from the other temporary housing brought to Los Alamos. Perhaps that’s where the myths got jumbled together. None of those 39 original Denver Steels are still around. They went the way of the Hanford homes and the Fort Leonard Wood multi units.

There were originally 251 Denver Steels ordered, but only 200 of them managed to be carefully situated onto Pueblo Mesa. Of those 200, half were reserved for the new civilian security inspectors coming into town. Craig Martin’s book on housing in Los Alamos doesn’t specify where the missing 12 were placed. But it’s probable that they were near the original 39 in an area that underwent multiple overhauls. Truthfully, the Denver Steels weren’t intended to be long term housing options for families in Los Alamos.

The original units were 718 square feet. Every home had two bedrooms and one bathroom and there was no bathtub. Only a shower. There were two models available from the company. The Marquette and the Columbine. Strangely, there were only 2 Marquettes ordered. The rest of the homes were the Columbine model and considering the minimal differences between the two, trying to find those two Marquettes would be like chasing the proverbial needle in the haystack. The most memorable feature of the Denver Steels wasn’t a feature at all. It was the fact that the all metal construction created a bizarre situation of simultaneous sweating and freezing in the wintertime. This resulted in the exterior walls being coated with ice. It would be interesting to know if this worked like natural insulation or not. But considering the mass amount of renovating, remodeling, and updating that has gone on in the Denver Steels in the last 75 years, it would be unlikely that any of the homes still have that unique problem.

Hard to believe that this inviting home ever resembled that original drawing!

Truly, the renaissance of the Denver Steels has been incredible. The area has long been considered a “starter” home neighborhood here in Los Alamos because of the modest square footage of the homes and the reasonable pricing. But some of the remodels have nearly doubled the 718 sq ft homes and in the last two years some of the sale prices of these beautifully updated homes have rivaled those of other “higher end” neighborhoods in town.

This home still has the original front window configuration. Two panes on the right, three on the left!

Though many of the updated versions of the Denver Steels have been added onto, it is sometimes still possible to see the ghost of the original construction if you know what you’re looking for. Take a tour of the neighborhood sometime and you’ll get a peek at the wonderful creativity and ingenuity of homeowners throughout the years.

Can YOU see the original structure?

As always, Craig Martin’s book, Quads, Shoeboxes and Sunken Living Rooms: A History of Los Alamos Housing, has been an invaluable and fascinating resource for this post. If you haven’t already, you should pick one up from the Historical Society’s Website. It’s a great resource for anyone who loves the uniqueness of Los Alamos, or even if it drives you nuts! And as always, if you’re ready to talk Real Estate in Los Alamos, I’m your hometown Real Estate Broker. Give me a call! I’d love to talk with you!

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