Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Tag: Los Alamos History (Page 5 of 8)

Our Amazing Libraries!

Thanks to the new Oppenheimer movie, Los Alamos memorabilia is a hot item on E-bay. A lot of this memorabilia includes postcards. I have to say that these are So. Much. Fun! While brainstorming ideas for this blog, I ran across a beautiful and very dated postcard photograph of the Post Office and Mesa Public Library circa 1945. It got me thinking about our two public library branches. Both are beautiful and modern. They offer our community a huge number of amenities and access to an enormous collection of information and artwork. So, how did this very small, remote town come to have such a great library system? The history might surprise you!

The First Library in Los Alamos

Considering the gathering of so many scientists, engineers, and pioneers of academia here in the early days of Los Alamos, it can’t be a surprise that creating a library became such an important task.

According to Lisa Bier’s research in “Atomic Wives & the Secret Library at Los Alamos”, the first librarian was Charlotte Serber, wife of prominent physicist Robert Serber. She was an unusual choice because she wasn’t a librarian at all. The history suggests that Oppenheimer chose her specifically because she wasn’t a librarian and therefore wouldn’t have the same hang ups about library protocol. It makes a lot of sense if you consider the haphazard and often slapped together quality of the Secret City during the early days. There probably wasn’t much time for protocol.

The original library materials had to be ordered, but could not be sent directly here. All mail to residents of Los Alamos was forwarded through a single post office box in Santa Fe. PO Box 1663 is still Triad’s LANL operating address today. In fact, many residents five to six generations back who were born in Los Alamos had PO Box 1663 on their birth certificates!

Library materials were ordered and borrowed through UC Berkley and numerous other scientific organizations. Over 1200 hardcover books and full runs of 50 different periodicals made the list.

But the coolest part of the library story illustrates the difficulty of keeping things secret. At one point, an investigator from Los Alamos was sent to Santa Fe to discover how random Santa Feans had gotten the names of some of the most secret and famous residents of Los Alamos. Turns out that these scientists and engineers had gotten library cards to the Santa Fe Library in their own names in order to borrow books! The books would be sent via mail. Can you imagine how strange it must’ve looked to the post office to have all of these books, periodical journals, and scientific research journals plus something like 250 copies of the Sears Catalog among other regular mailings. It would’ve been pretty obvious that there was something special going on in PO Box 1663!

This desire for secrecy prompted the security service to hang around in Santa Fe spreading misinformation about what was actually going on in Los Alamos. The “official version” was that we were making electric rockets up here. Eventually, as you might imagine, the Manhattan Project wasn’t able to be kept a secret anymore.

LANL Research Library

Of course, that original library is long gone. The current LANL Research Library is located on the main campus of LANL here in Los Alamos. It’s near the Otowi building and is able to accessed by the general public during regular business hours. As you might expect, not everything available to badged LANL employees is accessible to Average Joe, but just being able to go in there and see the building and some of the historical information housed there is worthwhile! If you do happen to work for LANL and have a badge, you can access the library 24/7. It’s an amazing collection of periodicals, technical papers, records of experiments, and books from every possible corner of the globe on any number of topics!

Mesa Public Library

The main branch of our local library is pretty recognizable to folks as they head toward the former location of Central School. Though the school was actually located more in the vicinity of Circle Drive, the library is just a little further up Central Ave with the main driveway entrance being just across from the Justice Center.

What a lot of folks don’t realize, is that the Mesa Public Library has tons of art on display and cataloged for educational use. Depending on the circumstances, some of the art can be checked out like a book. The gallery displays works from many well known contributors to the art world. The downstairs often offers kindermusic classes, story time, and any number of other kid friendly local activities.

The upstairs area of the modern library has rooms which can be reserved for meetings, group events, and other gatherings. There is no fee for local clubs or groups. You just need to chat with the ladies at the desk.

Of course, the first Mesa Public Library was part of the original Central Park Square Complex. The library was initially funded as a subscription library in 1943 by 70 local families who each donated $5. By 1945 it was free and open to everyone. In the image below, the library is on the right, but you can’t tell how far it extended. As I recall, the library building occupied all of the space between what is now the corner you can see in the image, and the jewelry store on the opposite corner. There were always stores fronting the parking lot at 15th and Central Ave. It really does give me a sense of nostalgia to see this photo image. I’ll talk more in another post about Central Park Square in general.

White Rock Branch Library

The first branch library in White Rock was opened in 1985. It was located in a small section of the White Rock Community Center on Longview Dr. The space still hosts the White Rock Senior Center, but in 2015 the county built a fabulous library on the corner of Sherwood Blvd and State Road 4 directly across the highway from the White Rock Visitor Center. If you’ve never been to the White Rock Branch Library, it’s worth a visit just for the spectacular views from the windows. Handily enough, the library is right next to the White Rock Youth Activity Center which offers kiddos 3rd-8th grade the opportunity to go back and forth depending on what activities they want to participate in. If you haven’t visited, make a plan to do it soon!

Regardless of whether or not you love books, it’s hard to deny the value in our local libraries. It’s just one more amazing thing about life in Los Alamos. When you’re ready to make the move, give me a call! This is a great time to sell real estate in Los Alamos County and a popular time to join our community. I’d love to talk to you!

Main Gate Park

There’s no doubt that the Oppenheimer movie has generated some additional tourist traffic this season. With all of the extra questions folks have been asking about the “old days”, I thought it might be interesting to dig a bit into the spot where traffic up the hill literally stopped. The Los Alamos Main Gate.

Main Gate Park

You’re probably plenty familiar with this local location. There’s a small, sparse campground there. The building with the facade on it is actually bathrooms. And none of this blocks the road or prevents any kind of traffic from passing through. In fact, if you just look at Main Gate Park and the tower on the other side of the road, it’s difficult to visualize exactly how the old front gate worked.

The Missing Pieces

So many times when we see historic images of the Main Gate, this is the image we see. An old car parked in front of a tiny building that very much resembles the bathrooms we have today. This historic photo from 1943 is certainly accurate. However, the background is entirely wrong. It appears that the clapboard building is on a skid that allows it to be moved around. It was likely in the middle of the street, which makes a lot of sense in 1943. But in the beginning, they thought there would only be a handful of scientists and some support staff. You might say that things quickly got out of hand and required a “main gate upgrade”.

The biggest missing piece of the original setup is actually the Petree Garden Center. As it is today, someone added more windows because it was a restaurant for a good many years. But when Los Alamos Landscaping purchased the building several years ago to become their garden center and a base of operations, I got the opportunity to take a peek at some of the still existing and rather ancient parts beneath the building that show it was very much part of the old main gate.

What structures, you ask?

The main “structure” that remains is an old tunnel that goes beneath the road and was used to access the tower on the opposite side of the road. The tunnel has some interesting graffiti. There was a youth group using it as a “hang out” at one point. Structurally speaking, it’s likely still sound. However it hasn’t been updated with any new wiring or safety egress for a long time so it is considered “closed”.

If you put the pieces together, this is what the gate looked like during most of the Manhattan Project.

This image is from a very old postcard. It shows how the Main Gain at Los Alamos used to appear when it was functional and the Secret City was closed to all but authorized personnel. The location makes quite a bit of sense really. Can you imagine what the view is like from that tower?

Since we’re talking about the Main Gate, I thought I’d toss in this postcard image as well. The photo is of the curve just past the Totavi gas station at the bottom of the hill. At that time it was called the K-195 highway. Some of you might remember when it looked like this. I suspect when the city was still closed, the road was much narrower and probably not paved. The ride up to the Main Gate must have been a nail biter for folks who’d never experienced mountain driving! It’s still that way for some visitors even though the locals tend to drive the thing like NASCAR.

If you’ve got additional information about our Main Gate, please feel free to leave it in the comments! I’d love to hear your thoughts. As always, I try to be thorough in my research, but there are a lot of pieces to the puzzle of Los Alamos and sometimes they don’t always fit together to make the same story. I’m a third generation Los Alamos resident and I love the history of this amazing place! If you’re ready to be part of our community, give me a call. I’d love to talk real estate with you!

Books Set in Los Alamos

According to Mappit.net there are 45 books set in and around Los Alamos. That might not surprise you given the enormous amount of war history centered in the Secret City. But the list doesn’t include only biographical or historical accounts of things that actually happened. There are some really great historical fiction books by local authors and of course, a notable coming of age book that used to be considered too “adult” for readers under 15. And there are even quite a few books I’ve read that didn’t make the Mappit list. If you’ve read a good book about or set in Los Alamos, please feel free to add it to the comments or post it to my wall on Facebook. I’m always looking for recommendations! And for the time being, here are some interesting books you might want to check out!

“Los Alamos” by Joseph Kanon

“Tiger Eyes” by Judy Blume

“Curse the Names” by Robert Arellano

“The Atomic Weight of Love” by Elizabeth J Church

“Atomic Medium” by GG Collins

“The House at Otowi Bridge: The Story of Edith Warner and Los Alamos” by Peggy Pond Church

“The Wives of Los Alamos” by TaraShea Nesbit

So pick up one of these books and enjoy getting a different view of our wonderful city! And when you’re ready to buy and sell real estate here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to chat about Los Alamos with you.

Creativity in Building

On March 5 of 2022, Los Alamos lost a member of our community who had far more impact that a lot of us probably ever realized. It’s been nearly a year since the passing of Roger Waterman. If you haven’t been part of this community for long, you might not realize the enormous impact that the Waterman family and their company TRK Management have had on the Los Alamos landscape. But as I was passing by the now empty lot where the Hilltop House Hotel used to stand, I was thinking about all of the other creative and sometimes bizarre building projects around Los Alamos that happened because of the Waterman family creed: conceptualize, reuse, repurpose, recycle, move, and move forward (all for the good of the town).

The Hospitality Business

In a previous post, I talked about the history of the Hilltop House. This one structure has been the talk of the town decade after decade as it was recycled, expanded, renovated, moved, renovated again, and then eventually abandoned. But this property wasn’t even the first creative use of building materials the Waterman family brought to Los Alamos. And it is only one example of the Waterman Family’s successful hospitality based businesses.

Their first local business was the Los Alamos Motor Lodge at Trinity and 15th Streets. The motor lodge is still there, but it now houses Trinity Urgent Care and a smattering of local office and retail space. In fact, if you consider the motor lodge concept from the seventies when you look at the narrow parking set up, it might make a whole lot more sense! But to get the whole picture, you need to know that those buildings weren’t built on that site. They were purchased in Western New Mexico and moved up to Los Alamos. In later years, that would become one of the things the Watermans were known for: picking a building up off its foundations and moving it to a new location.

The Waterman family also “built” and maintained the White Rock Motor Lodge, which has since become the Hampton Inn. The original structure was one story of repurposed buildings moved from a demo job on Kirtland Air Force Base in Albuquerque. But that was the way the Watermans like to do things. Reuse, repurpose, recycle. Some of you might remember the original White Rock Motor Lodge. It was one story to begin with. But then – because this was something else the Watermans were known for – they jacked up the first story and built a first floor underneath. The motel later became known as the Bandelier Inn in the nineties before eventually being torn down.

These Group 18 homes began life in 1957 looking much the same as mirror images of each other. During renovations a first floor was added to the home on top, the carport was enclosed, and a beautiful deck and exterior front door were added. Notice the similar window patterns on both original first floors.

The Motor Lodge wasn’t the only building that Waterman opted to lift in order to double its size. There are also several distinctive homes in the neighborhood around Oakwood Loop and Myrtle Street that began as typical one story homes. At some point during the nineties, these homes were also lifted so that a footprint sized first floor could be added. Roger Waterman’s comment to another local contractor was that it was far easier to build a floor than a roof!

As I stated in my previous post about the Hilltop House, when the gas station moved from the front of the building beneath the restaurant to the end of the property near Central Ave, the former one time cafe and short time real estate office was separated from the other portion of the building and moved from Los Alamos to Rover in White Rock where it is still a part of Herman’s Automotive.

If you want to see this building now, take a trip down Rover and you’ll find it tucked into the corner of the property and still housing the office of Herman’s Automotive.

While that might seem more than a little ambitious, it’s not nearly the largest building here in Los Alamos to be picked up and moved off the hill. In the late 1980s, the Los Alamos Christian Church on East Road decided it was time to replace their fellowship hall and auditorium. Instead of demolishing the current building, Waterman suggested recycling the structure by moving it someplace else. The original building had been a dormitory during the early years of Los Alamos. The former dormitory looked very much like the women’s dormitory still located near Peach Street which was recently acquired by the Los Alamos Historical Society.

former women’s dormitory

The church building was sold for one dollar to another church community in the Chama region and moved out of Los Alamos. The cost of moving the building was $100,000. Not a small amount of money by any stretch in the late 80’s, and yet the project made the cost of a “new” church building entirely doable for both church communities. One church saved on demolition costs and the other on building costs. And that was what Roger Waterman and his family found so very satisfying.

Ironically, the new auditorium designed and built by Waterman for the Los Alamos Christian Church and Waterman’s later Bradbury Science Museum look oddly alike in some ways. Most of the similarities can be attributed to architectural trends of that era, but both buildings certainly have presence.

TRK Management

If you know anything about commercial real estate management, you might be familiar with TRK. However, you might not recall or ever have known what TRK stands for. It’s deceptively simple. Bob and Alice Waterman, the first Watermans to settle here in Los Alamos, had three sons. Ted, Roger, and Kent. This wasn’t the first clever business name in the brothers’ history. Their first home building operation in the 1970s was called Namretaw (Waterman spelled backwards). TRK building and later management is still a successful company here in Los Alamos to this day with several commercial and residential complexes in their holdings. TRK currently owns and manages the Bradbury Science Museum building which houses the museum, offices for LANL contractors such as N3B and Compa, Yuan’s Noodle House (did you know Subway started out there?), and even the new offices of Los Alamos Family Council.

In later years, Roger Waterman was heard to comment on the sad shift of construction that makes it no longer feasible to recycle and reuse buildings due to simple labor costs. I think a good number of us would like the idea of adding a piece of history to our current home by recycling beams or metal or repurposing old wood. Perhaps there will be another shift in that direction in the future. Or maybe we will come up with new and creative ways to tip our hats to the old when building the new. Either way, I’d love to discuss housing in Los Alamos with you! Give me a call when you’re ready to buy or sell real estate here in Los Alamos. After all, I’m your hometown real estate broker!

Last Blast from our Educational Past

In my last two posts, we’ve been looking back at the development of educational facilities here in Los Alamos. In the last few years we have seen the addition of a beautiful new field house for our high school sports teams as well as the renovation and reconstruction of multiple schools in our district. But how did a small town built quite literally at the end of the road create facilities to educate a population from Kindergarten through 12th Grade? After all, it isn’t unusual for small towns to offer elementary education and then ship kids to a larger, neighboring town for high school.

Anchor High School

At the midpoint of the 1943-44 school year, an eight room school building was constructed west of the current Mesa Public Library location. It was initially called Los Alamos School and included space for all grades. From 1944 to 1945 high school students attending Los Alamos School were said to attend Anchor High School. In 1945 the name was changed to High School Alpha. Craig Martin suggests in his research that this was due to a need to “make it less identifiable to the outside world”.

While this might seem odd to some of us. The Anchor Ranch area is now TA-8. The ranch was taken over by the Manhattan Project in 1943 and eventually became the Anchor Ranch Proving Ground. Prior to that, the homestead had been established in 1901 and was eventually purchased by a family from New York who hired a man to run the ranch and care for a handicapped son who had been sent to live there. Any mention of Anchor High School might well have given away the location of then Project Y. Can you imagine what maintaining secrecy with high schoolers would have been like if they had social media in those days?

Los Alamos School became Central School in appx 1947

You might recall that it was only in the post war time that the Atomic Energy Commission decided to keep Los Alamos and develop it into a research town of sorts. To support a growing population, the AEC began building schools. You can read more about the development of elementary schools HERE. But Los Alamos School didn’t become Central School until Mesa and Canyon Elementary Schools were built in the late 1940s. Students from grades 7-12 remained at Central School until secondary schools could be constructed.

Pueblo Junior High

You probably know the first Junior High School here in Los Alamos as Pueblo Complex. It’s been Pueblo Complex since its closure in 1984 due to a population decline. Sports teams have continued to use its terraced fields and offices occupy old classrooms. The sprawling building also houses High Flyers Gymnastics, LAHS Cheer, and NJROTC physical training and drill team. From its construction in the school building boom of 1947-1949 until the closure in 1984, it was the first “middle school” here in Los Alamos. At that time, Junior High included 7th, 8th, and 9th grades. After that, students moved on to the high school. Some newcomers to the area find it strange that here in Los Alamos we have never included 6th grade in middle school or junior high as they do in many other districts. Who knows, that might be a wave of the future here in Los Alamos as our population continues to grow.

This might be the part most easily seen from Diamond Drive, but the school building is actually enormous!

Cumbres Junior High

If you don’t remember, the current Los Alamos Middle School began life as Cumbres Junior High in 1962. Cumbres Junior High also hosted grades 7-9 and was one of the last schools built prior to the AEC turning over control of the schools to LAPS. The school was built on the site of an old Army Radio Post which was placed on the highest point atop the mesa. Cumbres means “summit” in Spanish, a name that makes sense when you view it like that. The school district currently owns the site of the middle school and the open tract of land between the Ball Fields and the school which has so recently been a topic of conversation here in town.

LAMS Before…

When district enrollment dipped in the early 1980s, LAPS made the decision to keep the newer Junior High Building in operation. Absorbing the students attending Pueblo Junior High must have been quite a task! This was partly accomplished by sending ninth graders to the high school. Both Junior Highs were officially “closed” and Los Alamos Middle School was “opened”. Since the eighties, the middle school has been renovated again into a multi story structure to serve the growing needs of our community.

LAMS Now…

Los Alamos High School

As with anything here in Los Alamos, we have to consider any dates we find on the Internet regarding the beginnings of our town more than a little approximate. If you search on Wikipedia for the year in which Los Alamos High School was founded, it says 1946. It’s a year that isn’t even backed up entirely by the description and history they have of our school.

This is how I remember it! The building in the center of the photo was the main office. Library on the right and Civic Auditorium on the left out of sight.

As I said above, Anchor High School began in the 1943-44 school year. While it went through two name changes and several buildings, it was the beginning of our high school here in Los Alamos. The first official high school building was built in 1949. This is when the high school students moved from Central School/High School Alpha to their new building. In 2010 construction began on the current facility, which is a stunning building with plenty of amenities to offer state of the art learning.

A view of a remaining part of the old E Wing building from the new building.
Back in the day this would have been a view from E Wing toward the main building. Almost reverse from the photo above!

To be honest, its almost mind bending for some of us LAHS alumni to enter the new facility. For one thing, the library entrance looks rather the same, but from an entirely wrong perspective. It’s disorienting in some cases because in the old building, the library was unattached except by covered walkway. For those of you who never walked the halls in the old days and for those of us who try to understand how the new works with the old parts still remaining, you might enjoy the photo below. fbt Architects includes this on their website. You might want to take a look at their photo gallery and read the wonderful write up they provide about the project.

There is absolutely no doubt that the schools here in Los Alamos are a big part of what makes this a great community for families raising children. In my first paragraph I posed a question about how such a small and even secret community ever managed to develop such a district. Truthfully, the answer lies mostly with the Atomic Energy Commission and later the Department of Energy. In the early days and on to modern times. As late as the 2008-2009 school year, 22% of the school district’s budget came from DOE. Prior to that, AEC and later DOE subsidies covered a third of the district’s budget. Regardless of how we might feel about this, the fact remains that it is a key part of the development of such a wonderful learning environment for our kids.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this trip down the educational memory lane. It’s been educational and fascinating for me as well! I love Los Alamos and I’m proud to be part of the LAHS alumni and your hometown real estate broker! Give me a call and let’s talk real estate in Los Alamos. Whether you’re buying or selling, I’d love to hear from you!

Small Town, Even MORE Schools!

In my last post, I barely scratched the surface of where, why, and how our schools here in Los Alamos have evolved. If you didn’t catch that post, please click back and take a look. I won’t recap here, mostly because there are A LOT of schools left to cover!

Something that has always puzzled newcomers to town is the placement of our elementary schools. Sometimes their locations make sense. For example, Barranca Mesa Elementary serves residents from both Barranca and North Mesa. Yep. Those areas are certainly on the “far edge” of town and nearest to that elementary school. But why would the only Middle School in the county be in that area too? Honestly, I began my exploration of current and past schools because I was curious, and because I get asked about schools a lot. It’s almost the first question parents ask when they’re looking at a potential home purchase. So, continuing from my last post, I thought I’d focus solely on the elementary schools for a moment.

Mountain Elementary

The third elementary school built after Central School outgrew its ability to educate grades 1-12, Mountain was named by the AEC because… (drumroll, please) it’s closer to the mountains than the previous two school buildings. Mountain Elementary was built in 1950 and was the only “original” elementary school that did not eventually have a satellite school, but more about that in a moment.

Aspen Elementary

Aspen Elementary was number four. Built in 1951, it was named for the popular Aspen trees visible from the schoolyard. If that seems a bit odd in modern times, it might be that you never had an opportunity to view the fall colors from Aspen’s parking lot prior to the Cerro Grande fire. The name was actually one of the school’s most distinctive features. It was the first school named for a local plant species, a trend which would continue. Aspen was also one of the first elementary schools to receive a much needed construction overhaul. If you’re wondering what it looked like before, take a look at the other schools built in that general timeframe and you can probably get the correct idea.

Pajarito Elementary School

Built in the late 1950s, Pajarito Elementary school is located at the “top” of town on Arizona Avenue. The school building has been an office complex for far longer than it was a school. If you look at an aerial photo of the building, it’s possible to see why it was chosen for downsizing. The school was built during a population boom, but did not have the capacity to make it useful for that purpose in the long term. Why didn’t they build it bigger to begin with? During that time period, it wasn’t as much of a concern that all of the students assigned to an elementary school be at the same building. If they could find two classrooms here and eight there and maybe the rest at the main building, that was just fine.

Barranca Mesa Elementary

Even though the first homes went up on Barranca Mesa in 1958, the elementary school did not become approved by the AEC until the second group (subdivision) of homes on Barranca Mesa was well underway. The first students attended classes at the elementary school in 1962. The elementary school looks significantly different these days after undergoing a dramatic renovation in 2020. Considering the dates of their initial construction, it isn’t surprising that Barranca Mesa and Pinon were nearly identical in architecture.

Photo of the new construction walkthrough in 2020 courtesy of LA Daily Post

Pinon Elementary School

By 1963, the student population of White Rock Elementary was bursting at the seams. The AEC decided to build a much larger, modern school on the other side of White Rock. Of course, the name Pinon came from the rather excessive population of Pinons in the White Rock area. Realistically, Pinon was built to accommodate a large number of students. As Mirador expands, Pinon is once again absorbing a large number of students, a situation that will be addressed with the exciting new school remodeling plans underway in our district.

Chamisa Elementary School

Even with the addition of Pinon School in 1963, the new building wasn’t able to keep up with the exploding population of White Rock in the sixties. By the mid 1960s, the AEC was in the process of turning over a good number of public services to civilian control. The last thing that the AEC did for the Los Alamos Public Schools prior to turning responsibility for the district over to LAPS, was to build Chamisa Elementary School. The new school went up on the grounds of the former White Rock Elementary School, which is why many locals remember Chamisa as older than Pinon. According to Craig Martin, the first principal of Chamisa wanted to call the school Chaparral Elementary, but the AEC decided that Chamisa was more appropriate due to the enormous presence of Chamisa shrubs in and around the White Rock area. Even in their final moments, the AEC stuck to their naming formula!

Photo courtesy of the LA Daily Post

Satellite Schools

You don’t have to look far into Los Alamos history to see the enormous ebb and flow of our population. I spoke in my last post about the incredible way that our schools have tried to accommodate the student population without making it necessary to bus our kids outside the county. In the beginning, this had a lot to do with the nature of the “Secret City” mentality. As I mentioned above in my discussion of Pajarito Elementary School, sometimes students are educated in whatever space can be utilized for that purpose. Throughout the years prior to a stabilization in the population sometime in the seventies, the schools would often find or build “extra”space for learning environments. This need gave rise to “satellite schools” in the fifties. There were “officially” five of these schools, and most are still being used as “school” facilities.

Canoncito School

Craig Martin describes this very first satellite school as an overflow of Canyon Elementary’s population. The structure used had originally been built in 1947 as a laundromat and was repurposed into two classrooms in 1956. The building only had room for first and second grades. Las Cumbres currently occupies the original Canoncito School. However, just around the corner on Canyon Rd, Canyoncito Montessori is now a private pre-K school here in town.

Little Valley School

Little Valley was a satellite school of Mesa Elementary and also part of the high school at one point. If you went to LAHS fifteen years ago or more, you’ll remember the Little Valley building as L Wing. The building is technically down the hill and across Orange Street from the high school at the “head” of “Olive Street”. Olive Street is a trailhead these days and “L Wing” now houses the Family Strengths Network, which means it’s doing very much the same thing it always has.

Little Poplar School

Little Poplar was named for its parent school, Aspen Elementary. An Aspen tree is a variety of poplar after all. Little Poplar was located on 36th Street. It’s likely that whatever building housed this satellite school was either lost during the fire or was torn down to make way for housing.

Little Forest School

Little Forest is now a privately run daycare and preschool, but the building began life as a second satellite school for Aspen Elementary. One look at the current building and you can see striking similarities between it and almost all of the original school buildings here in Los Alamos. Little Forest was named for the surrounding pines which were far thicker in that area.

Little Sagebrush School

If you’re getting into the rhythm of naming schools, you’ll probably already guess that Little Sagebrush was a satellite school located in White Rock. The school actually served the original White Rock Elementary School prior to Pinon Elementary being built. A good number of you might remember a Montessori school in White Rock called Sage Cottage which unfortunately did not survive the pandemic. I’ve not dug any further into a connection between the names, but a connection is entirely possible. Sage is a common plant on the Pajarito Plateau, which is why the AEC chose the name for Little Sagebrush in the first place. The building did not survive the expansion of White Rock in the sixties.

If you’re still a bit turned around trying to see how all of these schools fit together to fill the educational needs of a growing Los Alamos, check out their locations on Google Maps. And if you’re still wondering how our secondary schools fit in, check back next time. I’ve finally made my way through the primary schools to the point where Middle School and Junior High meet High School and the Freshman Academy. And if you’re ready to move in or out of our amazing school district, give me a call! I’d love to talk education and housing in Los Alamos with you.

Small Town, Lots of Schools!

It isn’t difficult to understand the importance of “schools” when thinking about the history of Los Alamos. The reason Los Alamos exists as it does today is largely due to the Ranch School already occupying the Pajarito Plateau. The Fuller Lodge complex was quite literally the “first” school “building” in Los Alamos. This actually suggests education in Los Alamos goes back farther than science, research, or development.

The ranch school offered young men an education that most of us today would consider on par with one of the wilderness style programs often associated with troubled kids needing a boarding school with limited access to technology and modern comforts. Back then, the Los Alamos Ranch School developed work ethic, tenacity, and a can do attitude that was considered necessary for success in life.

The last class of students at the Ranch School finished their studies and left the mesa in January of 1943. The town of Los Alamos appeared as a jumble of hastily renovated or fabricated buildings within days and weeks of the students’ departure. A short while later, families of the technical and scientific staff arrived on the mesa. The ranch school was gone, so where did these kiddos go to school? The history and development of our nationally recognized school district might surprise you.

Photo of Ranch School students in front of the Oppenheimer house courtesy of Los Alamos Historical Society archives

Log Cabin Education

The first “school” serving a handful of children occupying Los Alamos in mid to late 1943 was located in what Craig Martin calls a “log structure” attached to the Guest Cottage. Considering just how rural most of America still was in the early 1940s, this wasn’t unusual. In fact, lessons taught at the log cabin school were probably pretty high quality for the same reasons we experience high quality education in our district now. Educated scientists, engineers, and skilled technical staff weren’t shy in demanding good education for their offspring.

Central School

Students weren’t educated in the log cabin for very long. The Manhattan Project build a school on the west end of the current location of Mesa Public Library. On a map, it appears in the area of where Circle Drive is currently located. The school was just that: “Los Alamos School”. It’s location on the opposite side of the mesa from the technical areas was chosen for safety reasons. “It was built in rows of rooms, each one a level below the other and connected by steep walkways (Martin, 1998).” It’s strange, but when I read Craig Martin’s description of Central School, it reminds me a lot of the High School building prior to it’s renovation.

Central School courtesy of Craig Martin

Central School got its name when Los Alamos outgrew it. The name came from its location in the center of town. Central School remained in use both prior to and after the war years. Once it was determined that Los Alamos would remain in use after the war, the Atomic Energy Commission began building additional elementary schools and Central School housed high school students until the current high school location was built in 1949. By 1966, Central School was outdated and no longer in use. It was torn down and the building materials were repurposed for other projects as often happened in those days.

Mesa School

If you’re not a history buff, you might have heard locals mention Mesa School, but probably have no clue where it was located. Mesa School was the first of two new elementary education facilities built here in Los Alamos in the late 1940s. The remains of Mesa School are now part of UNM-LA. If you consider the history of housing expansion in Los Alamos, Mesa School’s location near Western Area makes an awful lot of sense. In fact, it would be rather handy to have an elementary school in that area now. Considering the UNM-LA campus dates back to 1956 with the inception of the Center for Graduate Studies, its likely that Mesa School transitioned to its new “higher educational purpose” at that time.

Canyon School

The second of the new elementary schools here in town, Canyon School was located on the other end of Central Avenue near the intersection of Central and Canyon. The school was named for its close proximity to Canyon Rd and to Pueblo Canyon. For the record, this total lack of imagination in naming things around Los Alamos was an active choice by the Atomic Energy Commission. It has been suggested that the naming scheme might have been impacted by security concerns. Names reflected locations as a method of helping with navigation around town without the need for street signs. During a lull in enrollment, Canyon School was converted to Canyon Complex and now houses offices for professionals instead of schoolchildren. Canyon School isn’t the only school in the Los Alamos District to end up as office buildings, but more on that later.

From the side, it’s rather obvious that the Canyon Complex is a school building. The complex front which faces the new roundabout has had a nice facelift.

White Rock Elementary School

Remember that White Rock began as a construction camp for non cleared workers at the Laboratory sometime in 1947. The camp was essentially independent of Los Alamos, which meant it required its own school. While the school was called White Rock Elementary, it is very likely that the structure served anyone without another school to attend until much later. In the original master plan for expansion of White Rock in the 1960s, an elementary and a junior high were located just off Sherwood Blvd with a senior high school proposed to be built on the other side of town. None of those plans came to fruition however, and the original White Rock Elementary served students until construction of Pinon Elementary in 1963.

As we come to the end of this post, you might be wondering how we can dive into the history of schools in Los Alamos while barely touching on any of the familiar schools our kids attend today. Well, stay tuned! Perhaps the one thing we don’t appreciate enough is the sheer flexibility of our school district. So many towns with similar isolated locations with variable populations gave up on the notion of being able to educate their young people without the help of larger populations in other towns and cities. Los Alamos has never done that. In spite of some enormous ups and downs in population, resources, and changes in educational trends and requirements nationwide, our schools strive to exceed expectations in every way possible.

So check back next week for more information on schools here in Los Alamos, past and present. And when you’re ready to talk housing in the Los Alamos School District, give me a call. I’m your hometown real estate broker!

It Used to be Cool, I Swear!

There’s no doubt that aging causes us to think this phrase, if not say it, far more often than we’re comfortable with. As I was driving past the now almost completely leveled Hilltop House Hotel, I couldn’t help but wonder if those residents in town who have been so adamant that the place needed to go realize that the Hilltop House really did used to be cool.

Believe me, I’m not arguing with the necessity of tearing it down. The place had become what developers sometimes call a “money pit”. A property that required so much in the way of renovations as to make it financially unrealistic to do anything but tear it down. Not to mention it’s location. This is quite literally the first thing of Los Alamos that many of my real estate clients see. But what if that view had been much different than it has been for the last decade or so? What if it had looked like this?

Perhaps that’s what I’d like the latest batch of Los Alamos transplants to understand. When folks first came to town in the seventies and eighties, the Hilltop House really was welcoming. In the seventies you might have met a friend (or even your Realtor!) at the Hilltop Coffee Shop. By 1979 you’d have been meeting your Realtor at the Real Estate Associates office, which went in where the coffee shop was.

Remember phone books? How about those big names in Los Alamos real estate?

The Real Estate Associates office was eventually moved away from the Hilltop House property. If you’d like to take a peek at it now, you can. In White Rock. The office portion of Herman’s Auto Body might look somewhat different than the rest of the setup. Probably because it began life as the Hilltop Cafe & Coffee Shop!

Once the addition of the second story restaurant was added by 1981, life’s special events were hosted in the Hilltop House Restaurant, later reborn as the Trinity Sights Restaurant. Bridesmaids in frou-frou dresses whirled around the floor with groomsmen wearing matching cummerbunds. Or if you grew up locally here in Los Alamos, you might remember taking your mother to the Mother’s Day buffet at Trinity Sights. This was a premier place to experience Prime Rib Sunday as well.

The view from the Hilltop House Restaurant was always stunning!

What so many of us don’t realize is that the Hilltop House is literally soaked in Los Alamos history. The hotel itself was built by the Waterman family. Most of us are familiar with Roger Waterman and TRK Management, but we might not know that the Watermans had quite a long history of hotel and hospitality in Los Alamos. Wendy Hoffman wrote a lovely article in the LA Daily Post earlier this year about the creativity the Watermans brought to their construction business. But if you look at the overhead beams in the photograph of Trinity Sights above and think to yourself, “hmm, how very church like!”, you’d be absolutely correct. Waterman salvaged those lovely beams from a church demo project elsewhere in New Mexico and thought they might make a very classy edition to the restaurant upgrade.

Photo from spring 1999 with the new Conoco station visible on the right.

I don’t think we often appreciate the amazing flexibility of the Hilltop House. At one point a movie production company approached the hotel about needing rooms for production crew. At the time the 42 room hotel couldn’t have handled that many people. But quick thinking on the part of the Watermans utilized salvage from other projects to expand the hotel to 92 rooms. The restaurant was enlarged because the existing cafe wasn’t enough to provide for such a large number of guests, and with a lot of can do attitude the hotel made it work!

Hilltop House Annex ~ The building’s facade was intentionally matched to the existing hotel.

This wasn’t an unusual occurrence for the Hilltop House. In the mid eighties, the hotel acquired what was called the Hilltop House Annex at 464 Central Avenue. These apartments were furnished and maintained as an extended stay facility for those who needed a place to call home while shopping for a permanent residence, or those who were here in Los Alamos on business for more than a short stint. As a Realtor in the here and now, I certainly wish there was a similar set up now! The annex is now a standard apartment building, but still looks much the same as it did when the Hilltop House ran it.

Roger Waterman pictured in front of the Hilltop House

When Roger Waterman was asked about his feelings on the demolition of the hotel he’d spent so much of his life building and re-imagining, he was practical. He was quoted by Wendy Hoffman as suggesting, “It’s outside of the market, on the edge of town, and there’s nothing left worth salvaging. It would face some remediation issues, so if it can be replaced with something else, that’s OK.” Roger Waterman went on with pride to mention the hotel’s more than thirty years of being an integral part of the community here in Los Alamos.

I’d like to thank the Historical Society for the use of their archive photographs, most of which come from the Waterman collection. You can find even more information about the Hilltop House’s long history here in the archives. Also feel free to check out Wendy Hoffman’s article on the Waterman connection to the Hilltop House here. If you have any additional memories of the Hilltop House Hotel, the restaurant, the flower shop, the gas station, or any other of the dozens of pieces of Los Alamos that have existed at the Hilltop House, feel free to share them in the comments!

And even though my real estate office at Re/Max Associates isn’t located in that cool location at the Hilltop House, come and have a chat when you’re ready to talk real estate in Los Alamos! Give me a call anytime. I’m your home town real estate broker and I love to talk Los Alamos!

Get Dramatic in Los Alamos

If you’ve never visited the Los Alamos Little Theater, this might be the year to give it a try. If you act quickly, there are still a few tickets available for Clue. This stage adaptation of the popular movie starring Tim Curry and based on the board game would be a fantastic way to enjoy the dramatic talents of your local friends and neighbors!

It’s not unusual for a small town to have a dramatic society, club, or gathering of locals who just enjoy the heck out of a stage production. But most drama clubs don’t have an origin story quite like ours. Meaning that their production history likely doesn’t include Robert Oppenheimer on stage. (It was a non speaking role, but still!)

When you think about scientists from a multitude of backgrounds gathered together with the purpose of research and development on a scale never before attempted, you might assume any drama happening was of a suspenseful and Hollywood thriller like origin. But there was a common theme between the scientists, civilians, and military personnel living in the Secret City back in the 1940’s. They wanted to enjoy life. They built ski hills, golf courses, rifle and archery ranges, and horse stables. They created mountaineering clubs, explored the terrain, started choral societies, bands, orchestras, and danced every chance they got.

There’s just something exciting about going to the theater!

The Los Alamos Little Theater (LALT) began as a drama club sometime in 1943. According to the LALT’s own history, the first group consisted of military personnel, civilians, and scientists who had some or no experience with stage acting. One might even suggest they were just looking for something fun to keep them occupied in their off hours. They would send away for dramatic plays or scripts and then act them out for each other.

In the beginning they couldn’t decide what to call themselves. It was agreed upon that the “Drama Club” sounded childish. By the fall of 1943, the “Little Theater Group” was formalized with a board of directors. Members paid 25 cents each month to support the group with the hope that they would eventually be self sustaining through ticket sales and contributions from the public.

The first production was Right About Face. It opened on January 8, 1944. The cost was 35 cents for civilians and 20 cents for soldiers and WAC. The ticket price got you a seat for the stage production, refreshments, and admission to the dance held afterwards. Sounds like a pretty good deal, right?

Later ticket prices were 50 cents for the stage production and dance, or just 15 cents if you only wanted to dance. The first seven productions took place during the war. Oppenheimer’s non speaking role was in Arsenic and Old Lace. In the first 26 years of operation, the Little Theater Group performed an incredible 125 productions in venues all throughout the Secret City.

By 1971, Los Alamos County was considering the demolition of its Recreation Hall on Nectar Street. The building had originally been designated the East Cafeteria during the war. Fortunately for the Little Theater Group, the county fully supported their desire to take over the building and convert it into a play house. The county even gave the group the $6000 that had been allocated for demolition costs to use in their renovation. And THAT was when the Los Alamos Performing Arts Center was born.

Since the creation of the PAC in 1971, the Los Alamos Little Theater has put on over 230 productions. You can see a full list of their dramatic presentations on their website. Some of these presentations were collaborations with the Los Alamos Light Opera or the Santa Fe Community Theater. And every year on Halloweekend you can enjoy a fully interactive version of The Rocky Horror Picture Show starring your friends and neighbors from around town.

If you’ve ever been interested in drama, it might be time to check out the LALT. Volunteers are always welcome. Whether you crave an opportunity to be on stage or you enjoy the action behind the scenes, this could be the niche you’ve been looking for here in Los Alamos. And when you’re ready to join our unique community, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos Real Estate with you.

Musical Houses in Los Alamos

If you’re looking at the title of this post and thinking of pleasant sounding chamber music on your home stereo system, think again. When I say Musical Houses in Los Alamos, it’s more comparable to the children’s party game involving chairs and fast paced music.

How many times have you moved from one home to another in your lifetime? Once? Twice? Twenty times? More? According to relocation expert Joshua Green, Americans move an average of once every 5 years. Green also points out that statistics suggest most people move within their own county or town.

Truthfully, Americans have always been rather mobile. Isn’t that why the United States became a thing in the 1600s? Perhaps we should all just be glad we’re no longer having to move via three masted sailing vessels or covered wagons. Considering how “easy” it is to move these days, it’s not a surprise that so many folks decide they want a change of scenery.

What if I told you that residents of Los Alamos in the 1950s were almost certain to move to a “new” house every spring? Why spring? Because every year on February 2, the Housing Policy Board recalculated the number of “points” accrued by each employee. More points meant a “better” house. Some residents called this process “musical houses”. If you’ve ever lived on a military installation, you’re probably familiar with the idea. But if you’ve ever wondered why Los Alamos has such a difficult time with housing and how it worked “back in the day”, then let me back up and explain a few things.

In an earlier post about how “rent” used to be calculated in Los Alamos, I spoke about what one early resident called the “curious experiment in socialism”. During wartime, rents were based on salary and not on the type of quarters you might be occupying. Interestingly enough, there wasn’t nearly as much drama associated with that situation as with what happened beginning in 1947 when the “point system” went into effect.

How many points would your family have?

The Housing Policy Board was created to meet and oversee the distribution of what was then, and will likely always be, very limited housing resources. The board was made up of members from three entities: the Laboratory (LASL), Zia Company, and the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC). Each of these three entities had employees requiring housing. Each entity was eventually given an “allotment” of houses. Prior to the completion of Groups 11-15, it was a bit less organized. Each employee had points, but any houses coming available during the year were also allotted based on what entity needed to hire what employee. By the time construction had been completed on Group 15, each entity had a set number of dwellings to work with. This literally meant that they could only employ as many people as they could house. Stop for a moment and consider the implications of that. It’s a very different concept from the one we’re used to today.

At that time, if you weren’t directly employed by those three entities, you did not live in “town”. In a previous post, we talked about the Zia Company. LASL itself was science staff and some administrative or technical workers. The AEC was a bit more complex. They sponsored living quarters for school, church and hospital staff, people who staffed businesses in town (remember they were all managed by the Zia Company back then), and anyone else who might not fall into a typical category.

A 2 bedroom Denver Steel would have cost you $35/month to rent in 1955. You would’ve had to have been a married couple with at least one child to have enough points for one of these!

Residents applied for their housing points when they were hired to their jobs. Points were given for two things: 1 point per dollar of salary earned and 2 points per month of tenure that you had. The number of points was established when you were hired and recalculated each February 2. The rest of your housing desires were determined by which “list” you were on. Those lists were where you could make requests because of family size or any medical needs such as handicap needs or a desire for first floor housing. A resident could be on any list they qualified for. Newer housing, a particular area you wanted to live in, anything you might desire. Each time a new house came available on one of those lists, the employee with the highest number of points on that list got first dibs. If they didn’t want to move, the second highest number of points got a chance and so on down the line.

If there were dual income households, could you combine your points?

Not really. You just got more spots on the lists. Like buying more raffle tickets. If one spouse worked for LASL and another worked for Zia, they each had a point value. Zia and LASL both had their own housing lists because each entity had their own housing allotment. So if you were waiting for a two bedroom unit, you’d get the opportunity to be on both the Zia and LASL list for the house you wanted. But you couldn’t combine your points to try and bump your spot higher on the list.

The point system was meant to make things as “fair” as possible. But the reality was that it created some rather bizarre situations. Such as what would happen when someone retired. Housing Policy Board records suggest that retirees were encouraged to move out of Los Alamos “soon”. Let’s just say that there were no returning employees on “visiting scientist” status back then. Either you were in, or you were out.

You didn’t retire and stay in Los Alamos in the 1950s. Someone else needed your housing!

And if one spouse retired and the other stayed on, your family might have to move into a different unit. If one partner worked for LASL and the other for Zia and your family was living in a Zia allotment housing unit, you wouldn’t be able to stay there once the Zia employee retired. You’d have to move into a LASL allotted housing unit. Unless, of course, you could get the employers to do a “swap”. Occasionally this would happen. But there were several notorious cases where it did not. The most notorious case on record was a widow with five children. Her husband, a Zia Company employee, was killed in a work related accident. She was employed by the Los Alamos County Commission. She made a request to her employer that she and her children be allowed to remain in their “premium” house in Western Area. Her request was denied after the Housing Policy Board determined it would be unfair to make even one exception to the rules. It sounds rather heartless, but that was literally how they kept the balance back in the day.

Most residents rather enjoyed the regular moves. More than a few residents were hired around the same time, married in the same general year, and subsequently had their kids around the same time as well. There are documented situations where families moved apartment buildings or neighborhoods together four to six times. Regular “musical houses” kept things fresh even if you didn’t get exactly what you wanted right then. After all, you’d earn more “points” and hope for a better allotted unit the following year. You made new friends, kept old ones, and all lived in the same town anyway. It isn’t unlike most communities today. Just because you move out of the “neighborhood” doesn’t mean you lose the friends you made there. It’s just an opportunity to meet new people to add to your group!

In the 1950s, playing musical houses kept Los Alamos feeling like one big neighborhood. But there are lots of reasons why life in Los Alamos is unique. And when you’re ready to be part of our small town unique, give me a call! I’d love to chat real estate with you.

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