If I asked you which home in Los Alamos is the “oldest”, your mind would probably meander toward Bathrub Row with its row of log cabin homes dating back to the Los Alamos Ranch School. Or, you might be one of the local history buffs who can name off one of the homesteader cabins currently sitting over at the North Mesa Stables, having been transported there decades ago to be used for animal shelters.
Either of those options would certainly fit the description of the “oldest house”. But there’s another “oldest house” sitting on Trinity Drive not far from the hospital that is very much an “oldest house” in its own right.
Going all the way back to the beginning of Los Alamos, the scientific staff was housed in the ranch school buildings. But even from the beginning when Oppenheimer and Bradbury were trying to visualize what Site Y might look like, there was an open acknowledgement that the Manhattan Project had two parts. The Science part and the Laboratory part. Mostly meaning that while you can brainstorm an idea all you want, if there is ever going to be a project, there has to be a facility to build it in.
Building a facility requires laborers, construction staff, support personnel, administrative staff, and probably so many other people that it isn’t surprising the theme of Los Alamos from the beginning has been, “Um, where are we supposed to put all of these folks?”
In December of 1942, M.M. Sundt Construction Company was contracted to build… Build what? It isn’t as if they could tell anyone in detail what was being built in the mysterious city. So, Eugene Sundt is said to have taken one look at the plans he was handed and decided he was building a small military post for about 200 men. Accurate guess wasn’t it? Well, except for the 200 men bit. The number of employees/residents has never been accurate. Not then. Not now.
The reason Sundt’s company was given the contract was that they’d only just finished a large scale project in “nearby” Las Vegas, NM. The Tucson based contractor had a one stop shop for construction. Everything from framing to painting, plumbing, electrical, and everything in between. His equipment was already in the area and ready to go. The fewer contractors read into the project, the better for the secrecy of Los Alamos.
By March 1943, Sundt’s company had opened 42 duplex apartments for use of the staff at Los Alamos. These apartments were clustered in an arc from about where Central Park Square is now to the intersection of Trinity and Oppenheimer Drives. These apartment buildings were called Sundts. The first batch were one bedroom single story duplexes.
Apartments were accessed by narrow curving streets following the natural grade of the land in order to decrease the cost of building roads and dealing with drainage issues. The first Sundts looked like log cabins. The eventual calling card of all Sundts was an enormous stovepipe jutting out from the roof at a height that most people agreed looked ridiculous.
Eventually, Sundts included, one, two, and even three bedroom duplexes and quadruplexes with four units per building. As the war continued and certain construction material limitations went into place, Sundts went from log cabin style, to attractive white clapboard siding and a pitched roof, and eventually to a flat roofed building sided with plasterboard covered in a dull green tar paper. It did not make for much in the way of curb appeal! In fact, those assigned to tar paper covered Sundts called the original log cabin style Sundts “Snob Hollow” and the clapboard sided ones “de Sundts”. People really don’t change, do we?
The building sitting at 3491 Trinity Drive is a flat roof quadruplex built with the last group of Sundts contracted in 1943. Records indicate the building went up in 1950. Considering the convoluted history of recordkeeping in Los Alamos, it’s possible that date isn’t entirely accurate because the Sundts were never meant to be permanent structures anyway. For whatever reason, most likely having to do with terrain, that building was the furthermost Sundt from the center of “town” back in the late forties. The other Sundts were clustered around the land sitting between Trinity Drive and Canyon Road. A few of the original one bedroom duplexes were in the vicinity of Peach Street behind Bathtub Row. Those would have been the “Snob Hollow” Sundts.
Since most of the other Sundts were torn down to make way for modernized apartment buildings and condos, it’s highly possible that the conversion of that last building from residence to dental office more than a few decades ago is responsible for its preservation. Oddly enough, though the building is zoned for commercial use, it is still considered a condo with an A and B side. I don’t know if it’s fortunate or unfortunate that an updating of the HVAC system eventually eliminated the trademark stovepipe jutting out of the roof. The original Sundts all had a central coal burning furnace that heated all the apartment units inside. Former residents have spoken about how hot the buildings were even in the dead of winter and how difficult it was to maintain a consistent temperature. I don’t think any of us would enjoy sitting in a dental operatory with the temperature hovering somewhere between hot-summer-day and hell-on-earth!
A few fun facts about the Sundts and other early housing options here in Los Alamos:
- There were no street signs or addresses in Los Alamos. Your building had a T Number and newcomers had to wander the confusing, curved roads asking directions until they stumbled upon their housing assignment.
- Eventually there were 332 Sundt apartment units in Los Alamos.
- The common furnace in a Sundt required a “furnace man” to stoke the fire and put in coal. To make coal delivery easier, the coal chute and therefore the kitchen, were on the side closest to the “road”. So the back of a Sundt was the front and vice versa.
- Cooking units were coal and wood burning. These “black beauties” were so outdated it would have been like cooking on your Great Great Grandma’s stove.
- The item most sought after by wives living in Sundts were electric hot plates. Electricity was in high demand for laboratory functions in Los Alamos so all electrical appliances were essentially banned. That meant you had to buy an electric hot plate on the black market.
- The furnace of a Sundt was too big for the size of the building. As a result, the water would often come out of the pipes already boiling.
- Cast iron was considered vital to the war effort. In 1942 the government stopped all new homes from having a bathtub installed. The Sundts were built with a shower only, and THAT is how Bathtub Row got its name. Those bathtubs predated the war rationing on cast iron. Bathtubs would not make another appearance in Los Alamos housing until the Denver Steels were built.
So take a trip down Trinity Drive and take a peek at the last remaining Sundt apartment in Los Alamos. It looks very unassuming in its current stuccoed form. But if you want to really appreciate your own housing situation in Los Alamos, remind yourself that the Sundt was, for quite a long time, the best available housing in Los Alamos. In fact, until the Denver Steels and then the Western Area were built, the Sundts were preferred by residents. Their floorplans were much roomier than other options available at the time, and they had indoor plumbing! And when you’re ready to find your own home in Los Alamos, indoor plumbing included of course, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos Real Estate with you!
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