Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Tag: Kendra Ruminer Real Estate (Page 1 of 18)

Then & Now & Maybe Tomorrow Too!

As you might imagine, I have a LOT of conversations with clients about the commute up to Los Alamos and ways to get around town. These are all big questions that make a huge impact on folks’ decision to purchase a home in the county. As I’ve been thumbing my way through so many of the cool books on Los Alamos History you can find in our local Historical Museum Shop, I came across some interesting photos and information about that same topic. I think what strikes me most is that we have far more independence and even options today than the those who were contemplating these things in the mid to late 1940s.

The Commute

First of all, getting up to Los Alamos wasn’t exactly a picnic. The military was making improvements to the access roads on an almost constant basis. The Otowi suspension bridge across the Rio Grande required a nearly 90 degree turn from the road to access. The roads were dirt and gravel and prone to washouts and all kinds of weather related mess with potholes and mud. If you’ve ever driven into Rendija Canyon, that’s probably a similar experience to what the first drivers were dealing with.

The Bus to Los Alamos!

Not unlike our NM Park & Ride, the bus to Los Alamos which carried workers up to the Hill traveled a 50 mile trip through Espanola, Chimayo, and the San Ildefonso, Santa Clara, and Tesuque Pueblos. There was also a bus to Santa Fe. Anyone traveling the road to Los Alamos had to have identification and approval from the military. MPs were responsible for checking ids and sources suggest that by 1946 there were approximately 500 people on 43 buses making daily trips to both Santa Fe and the surrounding areas!

What sort of workers were bussed in from these areas? Commuters in those days were the folks who might not have been project connected, but were critical to operations in the Secret City. Clerks, cooks, food service workers, mechanics, custodians, and other important folks were given free bus service so that they could commute from their homes in outlying areas to the Hill on a nearly daily basis. But if you were working for the Manhattan Project in any way, you weren’t eligible to live off post. You needed to be on site. Whether you had a family or were single, your job determined where you could live. Single person wanting a little piece of quiet property and a small casita in the valley? Too bad! You got a cramped room in a dormitory.

White Rock

We’ve actually talked about White Rock in the past. You can check out that blog post HERE. It was first slapped together as a place to house construction workers beginning in 1949. That meant if you were attached to those construction projects, you couldn’t pick a commute either. White Rock was where you were and that was that!

Traffic in Los Alamos

Check out this photo from Images of America: Los Alamos 1944-1947. The Los Alamos Trading Post can be seen on the left. This is actually a photo of Central Avenue in 1946. Public opinion was that a MP was needed to direct traffic at this, the busiest intersection in Los Alamos. If you think lunchtime traffic is tricky in 2025, imagine what it was like back then! There was zero distance between the technical areas, (located at Ashley Pond) and downtown Los Alamos.

It’s important to remember that, “this little town was just full of young women and men. As the population soared toward 6,000 in 1944-1945, small groups of GIs, WACs, and civilians were visible everywhere, heading out together for one social event or another”(Los Alamos 1944-1947).

This statement actually sounds very familiar. Los Alamos is nothing if not eclectic when it comes to the distribution of age groups here in town. A distribution that is heavily affected by things like summer students and snowbirds! And all of these folks are looking for something fun to keep them occupied when they aren’t working.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this trip down memory lane. Our community here in the Secret City is unique in so many ways. But a lot of things we consider quirky about life in Los Alamos have been going on for so long, it’s hard to imagine life any other way! When you’re ready to talk housing in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to chat Quads, Duplexes, and Modified Westerns with you as you discover all of the amazing living options Los Alamos has to offer!

Mesa Business

There’s really no doubt that life here in Los Alamos is a rather unique experience. As I chat with newcomers and long time residents about their homes, I love hearing their perceptions of life in Los Alamos. What I sometimes find most fascinating is the wide variety of thoughts people like to share on the subject. These are modern perspectives though. Thanks to one of my favorite books from the History Museum’s wonderful gift shop, we have some sources from years ago.

In her book, Tales of Los Alamos: Life on the Mesa 1943-1945, Bernice Brode gives a bit of cool insight into how the work/life balance looked in the early days. I think you might agree with me that some of this will seem awfully familiar.

First off, Bernice Brode shares that the term “Mesa Business” was used to cover all community affairs. If community affairs seems a broad term, it was meant to be! It covered everything social happening in Los Alamos and therefore anyone had a right to be in the know, and activities and events happened because some determined individual made them happen.

It was also considered Mesa Business to get the 411 on any new families being brought up to Los Alamos. It’s nearly impossible to wrap our modern minds around the idea that the local gossip would include personal goods like what furniture you have, any musical talents, and even your basic family profiles. Did the new family have a grandmother living with them? Woohoo! New post babysitter! Does one of the kids play an instrument? Awesome, the community orchestra needs some beefing up!

Brode tells a tale in her book about the first really determined, organized effort by Mesa Business to create a pre-school. Some early residents even convinced the Army to slap together a building and fence in a yard. They even got playground equipment added to their budget. The pre-school was instantly in such demand that PO Box 1663 was inundated with requests to be on the waiting list! Good gracious! Can you imagine having to write a letter to the Los Alamos postal alias in order to get your kid waitlisted for daycare?!

Los Alamos had Girl Scouts, Brownies, Cub Scouts, and a Junior Cub Scouts group called BUDS during the war years. These groups popped up because dedicated moms and dads took time from the Manhattan Project to participate with their kids. (Ahem… sound familiar?).

One group of Brownies got so good with their dance routines that they were often asked to perform at community events. The determined Brownie Leader bailed up a major and got the Army to construct a May Pole near the Big House (near the modern location of the Post Office). The Brownie troupe of dancers wound pink and white ribbons round the pole for May Day!

Bernice also talks about the Mesa’s theater. The production space was almost never unused. Everything from church services to full scale theatrical productions. Everyone was involved, which meant everyone attended! It’s evidently urban legend that the most memorable Little Theater performance was of Arsenic and Old Lace when the final scene where they bring up the bodies included Robert Oppenheimer, Deak Parsons, Bob Bacher, Cyril Smith, and Harold Agnew. The need for willing bodies to act meant anyone was welcome to join!

I find it so interesting to think that our community has a bit of a revolving history. The way that we get involved when we’re passionate about something. Our history of rallying around community members in need. The high value we place on our offspring’s creative, educational, and athletic talents. This is such an interesting place to call home with so many things to do and see! Whether you’re ready to join our community or getting ready to leap to your next adventure, give me a call! I’m a hometown girl who loves to talk houses in Los Alamos!

Gone Wild in Los Alamos

There’s no lack of wildlife in Los Alamos. We hear about mountain lions, bears, coyotes, and deer on an almost daily basis. But here are a few other species of critter we see in and around town. If you’ve got stories of animal encounters you’d like to share, please post them in the comments here or on Facebook! I love to hear from my friends and neighbors!

Pepe le EWWWW!

Skunks are NOT considered protected furbearers in New Mexico and here in Los Alamos we have quite a lot of these little stinkers hanging around. According to animal control solutions.com, Los Alamos residents call in a lot of complaints about some pretty specific skunk behaviors that evidently don’t happen as often in other areas.

First off, skunks are shy, noctural creatures that are most active around dawn and dusk when they’re hunting for food. They love garbage, pet food, bugs, and would prefer to dig under your front porch. This obsession with the porch is usually why they become a nuisance to humans. Here in Los Alamos, they apparently dig under the front steps of a significant number of Los Alamos homes. Once they’ve made a cozy den, they have babies. This generally isn’t a huge problem unless the homeowner has dogs. Dogs meet skunk and WHAM, bad things happen!

NEVER attempt to deal with a skunk problem on your own. Call Animal Control immediately and ask for assistance in evicting skunks from your property. Many of my Los Alamos homeowners swear their dogs get sprayed at least once a year. This seems to happen in the late spring or early fall when we’re prone to leaving our doors wide open in the late evening or even overnight to take advantage of the cool breeze. One homeowner in the Urban Park area even reported a neighbor’s dog getting sprayed under her bedroom window four times in one week thanks to a canine vs skunk standoff! You can check out this article by VCA Animal Hospitals regarding what to do if your dog gets skunked.

The Masked Bandits

The existence of raccoons in our area is probably not a shock to you. Although I think a lot of people don’t realize just how many of these little vandals call our county home. I was driving across Omega Bridge last week just after sunset and spotted several sauntering across the road with their weird little jogging gait. Their tracks are really strange and distinctive. I’ve come across them many times, but they are plentiful in the morning up at the North Mesa Stables since the little critters spend nights running from one barn to the next terrorizing cats, making a general mess of barns, and pretty much acting like little the worst sort of delinquents.

What you might not realize is that they consider dry cat food a delicacy and have been known to kill domestic felines to protect what they see as a ready food source (more barn cats and ferals in Los Alamos are lost to raccoon attacks than coyotes). If you look at the different examples above, you’ll notice that raccoons have different front and hind paws. Their front paws are far more like a human hand with creepy long fingernails. This is why they are so handy at opening your containers, trashcans, and letting themselves into pretty much anywhere you don’t want them to be. They basically have thumbs, folks. That’s a pretty scary thought!

If you have a raccoon trying to move onto your property, contact Los Alamos Animal Control immediately and they can advise you on steps to take to either trap the critter or who to call to take care of that for you.

Quoth the Raven “WONK-WONK”

Anyone who has sat at Sonic and nibbled tater tots has noticed the enormous black birds loitering in the parking stalls begging for scraps. Every trashcan in the downtown area is subject to their scavenging. And frequently we hear the loud arguments everywhere from parks to parking lots which sound like a strange combination of maybe a few “caw-caws” and a whole lot of “grrr”, “wonk-wonk”, and maybe some rattles, chortles, and noises no average creature should be making. Although, I suppose we rarely hear the classic “nevermore”…

People sometimes ask me if we have ravens or crows and it isn’t something I’m all that great at being able to identify. What IS the difference between a raven and a crow and do we have both or only one or the other?

I’m learning that most of our birds are ravens although we do have some crows in our region. Ravens are larger (sometimes as large as a red tailed hawk), with a ruff of feathers on the front of their neck called “hackles”. Crows have smooth chests and a finer profile with a smaller head. Ravens are better fliers than crows too. They can soar for far longer and often prefer it, but they can also fly upside down and do all kinds of theatrics in the air. (Remind you of any bird drama you’ve spotted around town???)

The other identifying difference is in the tail feathers. Ravens have a wedge shaped tail and crows have a fan shaped tail. Since a good many of our ravens seem to prefer waddling around town, we don’t always get a good view of those tail feathers, but you can see them in the photos below.

Also, just because I found this interesting, it has always been against wildlife ordinance to feed the ravens or the crows as they have long been considered “nuisance animals”. Lately, I find the deer and coyote more of a nuisance than the ravens!

Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep

This one probably surprises you. In fact, it’s the reason I decided to write this post. A local contractor friend of mine was out and about this past Sunday morning in Pajarito Acres and had to stop and wait for a small herd of Rocky Mountain Bighorns to move out of the road. There were five and in his opinion, they were much worse to deal with than the deer. Mostly because they just stood there and stared at his truck until he had to practically move them bodily out of his way.

According to NM Game and Fish, prior to the 1900s there were a LOT of these fascinating creatures in the Pecos Wilderness and the Wheeler Peak area. By 1906 they were nearly gone and in the 1930s they started trying to reintroduce them to the Pecos with minimal success.

The Los Alamos Reporter stated there was a small herd spotted near the Red Dot trailhead just this past Saturday (so probably the same ones my friend spotted Sunday morning on the road in Pajarito Acres). Many residents of Pajarito Acres have spotted small herds in the Potrillo Canyon area over the last decade. NM Game and Fish released at least one herd of Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep in the Lower Water Canyon region in the last 10 years. Like the deer, they’ve discovered that being closer to town yields more water and potential food sources. So keep your eye out for these unusual looking creatures. Even without the fully mature, curling ram’s horns they can be dangerous to hikers as they’re far less likely to be intimidated by a human walking up on them.

Life in our unique community will always come with exposure to nature in a variety of ways. It’s one of the things folks tell me they love most about Los Alamos! Everyday is an adventure here on the Pajarito Plateau. And when you’re ready to buy or sell your home in this community, give me a call! I’m your hometown real estate broker and I love talking real estate in Los Alamos!

Buyers’ vs Sellers’ Market: What does it mean?

Gotta be honest, when I hear those two terms thrown around, “Buyers’ Market” or “Sellers’ Market”, I just want to cringe. If you Google these concepts, the AI responses lead you to believe it’s obvious.

According to Google:

A buyer’s market is when there are more homes available than buyers, while a seller’s market is when there are more buyers than homes. In a buyer’s market, buyers have more leverage and can negotiate with sellers. In a seller’s market, sellers have more leverage and buyers may have to compete in bidding wars.

So a simplistic way to view this concept is:

Gosh, the situations above certainly seem familiar to many of us here in Los Alamos. But have those things actually changed? Sure. We had more homes on the market in November and December of 2024 than we had since pre quarantine, but somewhere in the neighborhood of two months on market isn’t actually a long time for a house to remain available for sale. It just seems a lot longer than the seven days we’ve been looking at for the last several years.

Again. This is as very simplistic way to look at these concepts. Almost every mortgage or real estate related organization has plenty to say about both, but I think if you’re trying to understand if you potentially “missed your chance to get a great price on a home” either because you have one to sell or are interested in purchasing, it’s important to look at a variety of opinions about what these concepts actually mean in a unique place like Los Alamos.

Rocket Mortgage suggests: “A buyer’s market occurs when supply exceeds demand. To put it another way, real estate inventory is high, and there are plenty of homes for sale, but there’s a shortage of interested home buyers. These conditions give buyers leverage over sellers because when supply is higher and demand lower, the market is forced to respond.”

It seems the key words in the paragraph above are “but there’s a shortage of interested home buyers”. That isn’t actually what’s happening here in Los Alamos. There are certainly some regions of the US experiencing a lack of interested buyers, but that’s not what the volume of phone calls coming into my office suggests at the moment. There ARE interested buyers. They’re just having to be pretty darned careful what they spend their limited budgets on.

There was a lot of talk at the end of 2024 regarding what might have felt like a “drastic” increase in the number of homes on the market. However, here we are mid January and that number is down at least 25% or more. There’ve even been some higher priced homes going under contract with more than one competitive offer on the table, which is actually a great sign of a healthy local market.

Assurance Mortgage talks in their blog post about how you can tell if a market is leaning in the seller’s market direction. They speak about the pricing of a market being an indicator of buyers’ vs sellers’ market, which is certainly something we in Los Alamos keep a close eye on for many, many reasons.

Home prices here in Los Alamos are driven by some pretty unique factors. Laboratory hiring has decreased somewhat in the last several months. The 2024-2025 year change was also a significant contract year for some of the LANL contractors which may have affected our perceptions of the housing market. But at this stage, it would probably be more accurate to suggest (not confirm or deny) that housing prices are just now starting to stabilize a bit. And these things are a good thing overall for our community!

LANL potentially slowing down their hiring doesn’t mean that there aren’t any “new” residents looking to purchase a home. It just means that some of the folks who moved into town for one reason or another in the last 4-5 yrs and needed to put off their home purchase, now have an opportunity to find their dream home in Los Alamos!

When it comes to the prices of homes here in Los Alamos, remember that in 2024, 35% of homes here in town sold for over $700K. While this is actually quite similar to other comparable home values nationwide, I think it’s important to keep in mind that the market isn’t suggesting homes are going to suddenly see a massive drop in value as we’ve experienced in certain past years due to LANL operations or other major local and national economic situations.

Buyers simply aren’t willing to spend top dollar for a home that needs another $50K-200K in renovations. I think you might agree with me that this is entirely reasonable. But if you were a seller and your broker was suggesting you need to put about $50K-$200K in improvements into your home in order to get top dollar, you might view that situation very differently.

Part of the wariness of a new homeowner regarding potential need for renovation is the difficulty in finding a contractor to do the work! We actually have far more local general contractors than you might think, but they are SO busy that they can be super picky about the jobs they agree to. Many of those same contractors have been in business for so many years here in Los Alamos that they’re being called in to renovate work they did sometime in the last several decades. AND, they’ve done so many renovations on our “Group Housing” (quads, duplexes, eastern and western area homes, etc.) that they’ve gotten very savvy at knowing which potential projects are likely to blow up in their faces. It’s not easy to accommodate the seller, the buyer, and whatever contractor gets caught in the middle!

But none of these issues are unique to Los Alamos! In places like Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, and Arkansas, many of the homes date back to the forties, fifties, sixties, and even to the turn of the century! Contractors in those regions are just as savvy regarding what renovation jobs they’re willing to take. In other areas, (the suburbs of Dallas come to mind), acres upon acres of tract housing all built in the last 30 years have been the standard for so long, folks can’t imagine not having a fairly new home with standard fixtures and up to code “modern” electric and plumbing.

I hope whether you’re a buyer or a seller, this information has helped in some small way. The good news is, homes are selling. The better news is that there are actually homes in Los Alamos to sell! Since both of those things are true, I’m still loving life here in Los Alamos while getting to take a peek into all of the cool and unique homes we have in town. And when you’re ready to sell your home here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m a hometown girl who loves to chat about housing on the Pajarito Plateau and I’d love to share my knowledge with you!

The Lodge: “Your Host on the Hill”

I think when I look at photos of the original Fuller Lodge design and compare it with the building I know and love today, it’s sometimes difficult to identify exactly how it changed. Then I take a look at the picture below and pretty much have my “holy cow!” moment.

If you’ve read any of my other posts regarding architecture in Los Alamos in the post war era, you’ve likely read the name W.C. Kruger and Associates. They worked with the Atomic Energy Commission many times on buildings in Los Alamos and are responsible for designing many of the homes we still have in town today.

The Zia Company took over management and operations of Fuller Lodge in 1947. The plan was still to utilize the lodge as a hotel because it was the only building that could actually pull that off in 1947. The major difficulty was trying to maintain the rustic charm of AJ Connell’s “outpost of civilization” while accommodating the AEC’s purely functional desires. While we look at the lodge today and aren’t particularly shocked. The decision to add onto the lodge in three directions utilizing native stone was met with quite a lot of disapproval from the locals at the time.

Going from the above look of Fuller Lodge to the one below was quite a change. The biggest change being that the front of the lodge became the back and the back became the front. All because of CARS.

In an effort to “match” the new with the old, native stone was used in order to complement the existing rock of the fireplaces and chimneys inside the lodge. Guest rooms were crammed into the new wings added to the north and south ends of the building. This allowed the lodge to host 75 guests at a time!

The south wing got 14 new rooms which included a two room suite with a private sitting room. The first floor of the north wing became the home of the “modern” lobby which used the back of the original fireplace. The first floor of the north wing also gained a manager’s office, a receiving office, and even a barbershop! With seven rooms upstairs in the north wing, they also added two small suites which eventually became the Nambe Room.

Of course, the kitchen needed a real overhaul in spite of it’s ability to turn out a top notch steak dinner all throughout the war years. The new kitchen completely overtook the old stone one on the west side of the building. They also made rooms for storage and even a bedroom for hotel employees. Above the new kitchen were six additional guest rooms which had been packed in and were therefore pretty small.

The original building was still the heart of the hotel. The Curtis and Zia Rooms became banquet halls and the original dining room got new and more comfortable chairs to replace the old slatted ones seen in the photo below.

The whole structure was rechristened “The Lodge”, which you can see scrawled down the chimney in the photo showcasing the fancy new parking lot entrance. It opened in early 1949 and the Zia Company named R.E. Carraway as the new manager.

Staying at The Lodge would cost you $7 per night for a single room or $9.50 for a double. As you might imagine, the first thing guests complained about was the lack of a cocktail lounge. Not long after opening, the AEC gave permission for the Curtis Room to be renovated into a cozy bar.

The Zia Company operated The Lodge until 1966. When the whole town began going through phases of privatization, the AEC authorized the construction of the Los Alamos Inn around 1966. The agreement was that The Lodge would be closed within 10 days of the new Inn being open for operation. The purpose was to cut down on competition. I think many of us now wish The Lodge was still a hotel considering we often have a great need locally for short term housing!

The AEC first thought to tear the building down, but a local movement to Save the Lodge gained momentum almost immediately. Locals were keen to prevent Fuller Lodge from meeting the same fate as The Big House, (which you can read about HERE). The AEC decided to give Los Alamos County a one year contract to operate the Lodge as a cultural center and museum. The first public event held at Fuller Lodge happened on August 26, 1967 when the Los Alamos County Fair was hosted at Fuller Lodge for the first time. Though the whole thing was considered a huge success, it took the AEC until October 24, 1974 to navigate the red tape and transfer ownership of Fuller Lodge to Los Alamos County.

Today, Fuller Lodge could be called the Heart of Los Alamos. It’s rooms host events, conferences, historical talks, music exhibitions, and even the annual Pumpkin Glow happens on the lawn! The building has been renovated yet again to make space for the Los Alamos Art Center and gallery, the Los Alamos Historical Archives, and offices for the Los Alamos Historical Society and the Los Alamos Arts Council. The Pajarito Room still hosts everything from lectures to weddings and a good number of us have had our senior photos taken somewhere on Fuller Lodge Property. It’s a piece of our history that should be cherished and loved. I sometimes think that AJ Connell would be pleased with how it’s turned out. One might even argue that Los Alamos itself has become an Outpost of Civilization!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this tour through the history of Fuller Lodge. The building fascinates me just as much as the rest of the rustic architecture of Bathtub Row. Whether you’re itching to purchase a historic home or a regular home here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m a hometown girl who loves to talk about life in Los Alamos!

Hotel Project Y

When General Leslie Groves and Robert J Oppenheimer made their choice regarding potential sites for Project Y, Groves considered Fuller Lodge to be a bonus to the Los Alamos Ranch School’s desirability as a location. According to Craig Martin and Heather McClenahan’s book, “Of Logs and Stone”, Groves considered Fuller Lodge “immediately ready for use as ‘transient housing and messing of post and technical personnel”.

I had a good chuckle at the wording. “Messing” of post and technical personnel? In the military lingo, “messing” refers to feeding. And apparently Fuller Lodge was averaging 13,000 meals served each month during the Project Y years! If you lived or stayed in the Lodge or the Big House, you ate your meals at Fuller Lodge. However, if you wanted to show up for a steak on a Friday night at Fuller Lodge, you paid just a dollar per person for your dinner.

That’s right. It seems like a deal worthy of a casino buffet, but a full meal ticket covering 3 square meals per day was $60/mo. Breakfast was $.50; Lunch was $.65; and dinner would cost you a dollar no matter what they were serving. As you might imagine, a lot of Project Y personnel lined up when the lodge was serving their steak dinner, (something Eleanor Jette speaks about in her book, Inside Box 1663).

The most distinguished guests in Los Alamos were billeted at Fuller Lodge during their stays, and if you were a bachelor you were likely to be at the Lodge or the Big House. Considering the necessity of feeding both guests and the science guy bachelor population, local legend suggests Fuller Lodge was often hosting at least six past and future Nobel Prize laureates at a time for meals. Apparently Otto Frisch of the British Mission loved to eat breakfast at Fuller Lodge just to watch the sun come up over the Sangre de Cristos.

Of course, that wasn’t the only thing going on at Fuller Lodge during Project Y. The Pajarito Room saw just as many dances, gatherings, celebrations, and public meetings as it did during the Ranch School years! Even the Town Council used the Pajarito Room as their chambers during some evenings.

Enrico Fermi allegedly square danced one evening at Fuller Lodge and could not be convinced to join the dance until he had memorized with mathematical precision every one of the moves he would need to perform. Can you imagine trying to square dance with a boatload of mathematically gifted individuals obsessed with the geometrical “correctness” of the movements? I would have loved to have been a fly on the wall on those nights! While our brains probably cannot see a night of square dancing as “trendy” and “exciting”, the square dance was to turn of the century America what the Minuet was to Regency England. All the rage! And sincerely a better way to get to know a potential new friend than a bunch of instant messages from a dating app…

The Army didn’t modify Fuller Lodge very much during the Project Y years. The biggest renovation was to create guest quarters where the infirmary had been. The post commander requested sleeping and bathing areas in the space. The most interesting feature of this upgrade was a quirk in the plumbing which required the toilet to be in a rather peculiar position. Guests had to actually step up to the toilet, which was located on a platform. This particular accommodation eventually became known as “The Throne Room”. The picture below shows exactly why, and the sign was for laughs as it would be unusual for anyone to suggest a meeting in the bathroom!

Happy 2025 Los Alamos! Take a drive by Ashley Pond and Fuller Lodge while the wonderful holiday lights are still lit up in the evenings and enjoy this amazing landmark of the Pajarito Plateau. And when you’re ready to buy or sell your property here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m a hometown girl who would love to chat about living in Los Alamos with YOU!

The Outpost of Civilization

Once Fuller Lodge was completed and the ranch school “moved in”, AJ Connell was able to indulge in what was almost a fantasy of rough outdoor living combined with an elegant evening schedule of dressing for dinner and an almost Oxford like “high table” manner. Connell was quoted more than once in saying The Los Alamos Ranch School was meant to be an “Outpost of Civilization”. Fuller Lodge was the pinnacle of that outpost in the mind of Connell and many of the school masters.

It isn’t difficult to see why they’d think that. Keep in mind that what we currently tend to think of as the “front” of Fuller Lodge was originally the back. The wide porch which faces the rose garden, the sweeping lawn, and unfortunately the back of the post office, was the “front” of Fuller Lodge. As viewed in the photo below, it was a gorgeous facade back in the day. Without the barrier of Central Park Square, the east facing portico of Fuller Lodge provided an unfettered view of the sunrise over the Sangre de Cristos. If you stand on the lawn nowand close your eyes you’d still probably have a tough time imagining acres worth of irrigated fields stretching from Fuller Lodge toward the edge of the mesa as far as the eye could see.

While it is still striking, it’s hard for a modern mind to imagine an entire troop of mounted boy scouts pulling up their horses on the road in front of the portico to strut their stuff for graduation day!

Evenings began with the bell perched atop the roof calling the boys and the masters for the evening meal. With clean faces and pressed uniforms, the boys would gather in front of the stone fireplace in the anteroom. There they could read or chat as they waited for the houseboys, (yes, Connell hired young boys from the surrounding pueblos to perform this role) to open the big sliding doors between the anteroom and the dining hall. When the doors opened, the boys would calmly and with decorum (always, I’m sure!) go to their assigned tables. Each table of 8 boys was presided over by a master who was also in charge of the conversation topics. Let’s say the table conversation was probably NOT what you’d usually expect of grade school boys.

There was considerable worry about kitchen fires in log cabin structures. With an eye toward safety, the kitchen at Fuller Lodge was located just off the dining hall in a stone structure which can be seen in this rear view below. That wasn’t an uncommon way of handling kitchens in general until sometime in the late 1900s.

When the dining hall wasn’t being used for meals three times each day of the week, the staff would stash tables and chairs in the surrounding rooms and host other events. The LARS band often played and Connell would invite girls from other schools in Santa Fe to come up and give his rough riding boy scouts experience in the finer points of dancing, conversation, and probably even flirtation!

The photo below of a Valentines Day dance in the Pajarito Room (as the dining room has always been called) shows the original enormous elk head which used to hang above the big fireplace. I’ve always found it amusing that the elk head eventually got moved at the request of the housekeeper who apparently found it near impossible to keep the moths from setting up house inside the thing! You can read more about the girls’ school in Santa Fe in a previous post HERE.

One of the coolest offerings at Fuller Lodge was the frequency of theater productions. In fact, the founder of the Santa Fe Opera made his theatrical debut here in Los Alamos on the stage at Fuller Lodge in 1940. John Crosby performed admirably, by all reports, in H.M.S. Pinafore! Seriously, sometimes we are just so trendy without realizing it. After all, years later Oppenheimer performed with the Los Alamos Little Theater in one of their wartime era productions. I suppose this is only a taste of what AJ Connell envisioned as life on the Pajarito Plateau being the cradle of civilized entertainment and pursuits in Northern New Mexico!

Another interesting piece of the original Fuller Lodge layout was a room just adjacent to the entry hall. The bright space has gone by several names over the decades, but it’s original name was the “Smoking Room”. Believe it or not, ranch school students were allowed to smoke as long as they observed a few rules.

  1. Smokers had to be a minimum of 17 years of age.
  2. Parents had to give written permission verifying the student was allowed to smoke.
  3. Smoking would be allowed only after meals.
  4. Smoking should NEVER be done in front of younger boys, (presumably younger than 17), who were not allowed inside the smoking room to begin with.

The name of the Smoking Room was eventually changed to the “Sportsmen’s Room” as it was the official meeting space for the Angler’s and Shooting Clubs. Then Connell finally named the room after Fayette Curtis who was the first teacher and headmaster of the ranch school.

The second floor of the lodge was more of a mezzanine style because the Pajarito Room was two stories. The headmaster and the school matron both had suites on the second floor. The school nurse had a small suite up there and the school infirmary was located in a room above the main lobby at the north end of the building which is now referred to as the “Throne Room”, (more about THAT next time!).

Connell had a sitting room and sleeping quarters on the north end of the third floor of Fuller Lodge. This third floor location offered Connell incredible views of the countryside through the windows, but during the hottest months he would sometimes occupy one of the seasonally vacant master’s quarters in order to avoid sweltering in the summer heat! Can you imagine being up on the third floor at night with no air conditioning or electric fans? Yikes!

The bell of Fuller Lodge was made by the Meneely Bell Company of Troy, New York. The bell pull dropped down from the bell tower on the roof to a spot just outside the kitchen. When it was time to summon the boys for meals, one of the kitchen staff would just reach over the pull the braided cord. It seems sort of sad that this outpost of civilization and such a unique experience for growing up young men only lasted 14 years before a whole new outfit came to Los Alamos.

As we come to the end of the ranch school days at Fuller Lodge, I encourage you to take a walk around Ashley Pond to enjoy the beautiful lights. Then have a look at Fuller Lodge and imagine it filled with holiday gatherings and excitement. Then you might want to take a moment and be amazed that Fuller Lodge has seen around 97 holiday seasons. And when you’re pausing to appreciate the beauty of the first homes in Los Alamos, give me a call! I love chatting about the unique and sometimes quirky homes here in Los Alamos. It’s even better when I can help folks find their dream home here on the Pajarito Plateau!

Happy Holidays, Los Alamos!

Life Revolves Around Fuller Lodge

I always find the holidays to a be the perfect time to wax poetic about Fuller Lodge. I think this painting by Secundino Sandoval helps illustrate why. The lodge just looks cool in snow, and it’s even better lit up for Christmas!

I think the first question most of us wonder is why Fuller Lodge? Why not Connell Lodge, or Pond Lodge (except that sounds a bit odd), or even Pajarito Lodge? The short answer is that the Fuller family provided most of the funds needed to build the lodge. They also heavily supported the school when Ashley Pond’s circumstances were such that he no longer could. Philo Fuller, Edward P Fuller’s father, wholeheartedly took on the role of primary shareholder and supporter.

Edward P Fuller died in 1923. He’d first come to Los Alamos in 1917 as a guest of Ashley Pond at the Pajarito Club when the school was still a guest ranch. Edward had struggled with Polio for most of his life and the climate in New Mexico agreed with him far more than that of Grand Rapids, Michigan. Fuller’s family had made their fortune in furniture manufacturing. Philo had been glad his son found so much satisfaction in healthy living and being on horseback for most of each day. While Edward wasn’t healthy enough to do physical labor and struggled with physical movement, he was fond of horses and was highly proficient in the saddle. He also proved to have a good way with the younger boys and became both supervisor and father figure to the youngest students so far away from home.

I think a modern mindset looks at Fuller Lodge and feels like it belongs to Los Alamos, as though it’s always been here and always will be here. But in the beginning, Connell had to argue pretty hard for the need to build such an enormous structure. He had issues with the mortgage holder, but once he slogged through the legal issues and got the go ahead from Philo Fuller, the next step was to find an architect.

Connell consulted Hazel Pond, who immediately recommended John Gaw Geem. The Brazilian born architect had a civil engineering degree from the Virginia Military Institute and had a passion for New Mexico that he brought with him to his designs. Meem’s detailed plans for the lodge included the bell tower, designs for the lamps which would be needed in the portico, and even the specific dimensions for all 771 logs needed to complete the building!

Can you imagine? 771 logs. Each log specifically hewn to fit in precise order. Connell and Meem gained permission from the Forest Service to cut logs and quarry stone from the Jemez Mountains. The stonework at Fuller Lodge is actually made from the lightweight Bandelier tuff we see so frequently in our region.

Connell and a representative from the Santa Fe National Forest spent a good deal of time in the foothills west of the school choosing each tree. I find it so interesting that Connell actually made a habit of unmarking certain trees like a sort of Robin Hood of the forest because he felt the trees were necessary to the landscape and aesthetic of the school. So if the forest ranger marked a tree for use that Connell disagreed with, Connell would sneak out after dark and unmark it so he could choose one he thought was a better fit!

Trees were felled in the summer of 1927 and a sawmill of sorts was set up on the school property in order to get the building materials ready for the lodge construction.

I find these images of the construction absolutely fascinating. These photos and more are available for you to have in Craig Martin and Heather McClenahan’s book, Of Logs and Stone, which you can pick up at the History Museum shop. I highly encourage you to pick up a copy of this book for your collection if you have any interest in the history of our area.

Later in 1927, Connell received a message from a man named George Teats. Teats was a contractor in Rocky Ford, Colorado. His crew had just completed a recreation hall at the Conejos Recreation Association and had experience with the construction of log structures. Meem went to check out Teats recently completed project and declared this to be a good match for Connell’s vision. In May of 1928, Teats and his crew moved to the Pajarito Plateau and that’s when things took off!

Meem periodically visited the site to make adjustments to design and methods. He seemed especially concerned with the interior. Meem even had several of the logs sawn in half and hollowed out to create recessed areas for conduits and other piping and structural necessities.

Construction was completed in 1929. Teats sent a bill to Meem for $33,450.00. Meem paid the bill and added a 5% fee to cover his firm’s costs for planning, engineering, and supervision. The total bill from Meem was $1600.00. Which means Fuller Lodge “cost” under $35K to build, though I cannot imagine what materials would have cost then and now. The fact that the school could draw materials from the surrounding land is probably the only reason we now have a beautiful public facility which is still in use almost a hundred years later!

The construction of Fuller Lodge was truly a labor of love. While John Gaw Meem didn’t make a ton of cash off the deal, the lodge became a hallmark of his style and capabilities and really boosted his career in architecture. The building perfectly blended AJ Connell’s vision of a rustic school which excelled at developing intelligent, academically gifted outdoorsmen. Classical education meets rustic living at it’s finest! And of course, Fuller Lodge continues to be a symbol of our history here in Los Alamos. We’ll talk a bit more about the Lodge through the years in the next few weeks. What other “house” in Los Alamos deserves such a special place in our holiday season?

If you’re ready to find your holiday dream house here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I love it when fall shifts to winter, the mornings are brisk and cold, and the nights are perfect for hanging out in front of the fire or the woodstove. So while your chestnuts are roasting, give me a shout! I’d love to talk real estate in Los Alamos with you!

Tales of Los Alamos Vol. 2

I hope everyone is getting ready for a relaxing Thanksgiving full of food and family! Or… if you prefer a quiet holiday spent doing something solitary that you enjoy, I hope you do that with just as much enthusiasm. This has always been a wonderful place to gather, but sometimes one of the coolest part of being local is how quiet Los Alamos can be during holiday weekends. Even less traffic and big blue skies and outdoor activities galore! Our local ice skating rink is open and it’s certainly time to start enjoying the coming winter season.

In a previous post, I talked about a few silly stories from the ranch school days. As you might imagine, there are dozens and dozens of these anecdotes. But I wanted to share a couple of stories I’ve found in my reading from the Manhattan Project era. Some of them really show how time has passed without things changing as much as we believe they have!

Culture Club Woes

A persistent item of notice to practically every female who came to Los Alamos in the early days, (and honestly every female since!) is the lack of social amenities immediately available in town. In Eleanor Jette’s book, Inside Box 1663, she suggests, “Philosophy changed fast in our cloistered world, and the British wives agreed with the American wives that if you were in the soup, it was best to swim and not worry too much about the social amenities”.

But there was a Women’s Club here in Los Alamos during the Manhattan Project era. In the beginning, the club was divided into sections. Two of the most active sections were the book section and the cultural arts section. Eleanor Jette goes on to say that while she opted out of the Women’s Club in general as she had had enough of them in the “Outer World” to last a lifetime, one could not get away from the cultural arts section. Eventually, the Cultural Arts Section became the entire Women’s Club!

As you might imagine, Lady Chadwick of the British Mission was the first to point out that the vegetable counter at the commissary had become far too crowded with the “newcomers” who would cluster about while meeting and greeting. It was decided that this was not a “toney” place for a woman newly arrived from the “Outer World” to make her debut to the Los Alamos social scene. In case you’ve not heard the term, it was a pretty common way in the past of referring to something marked by an aristocratic or high-toned manner or style. I’d imagine for someone like Lady Chadwick, there wasn’t much that felt “toney” in Los Alamos back in those days!

Therefore, it was decided that “newcomer teas” should happen frequently, overseen by Lady Chadwick and the mother of physicist, Joe Hirschfelder. Jette goes on to describe the teas as rather “frenzied” affairs because there were so very many newcomers that it was difficult to find a way to meet and greet them all in one go!

Eventually, the ladies decided to declare the Women’s Club to be the Cultural Arts Club. Unfortunately this name scared the poor woman they nominated for the presidency. Marge Schrieber actually described that role as “too vivid” for her comfort zone as it invoked the idea that she was somehow in charge of high culture in Los Alamos, (can you imagine?). So Marge suggested they call it the Mesa Club. Although, Marge’s first suggested name for the club was the “Hill Biddies”. I’d imagine that to be a fairly accurate description that made too many of the said ladies uncomfortable. If we consider all of the things we ask our County government to address in this day and age, I don’t think it could ever compare to how things were back in the 1940’s.

Where’s Your Pass?

Something else it’s difficult to imagine is needing your LANL pass for everything. Sure, if you’re a LANL employee you have a badge. You need that sucker to get through a gate, probably some more gates, some other doors, and probably your office space. You might need an access card for your work computer or when you take one home. But you don’t generally need your badge to get back into your house…

Just after the Manhattan Project took over the Ranch School, “Deak” and Martha Parsons moved into Master Cottage #3. Of course, Master Cottage #3 had been the home Fermor and Peggy Pond Church built to raise their boys. But Peggy had her little “mom’s getaway” cabin on the edge of Pueblo Canyon and had wandered the plateau, hiking and writing when the urge took her.

Martha Parsons experience of life in Master Cottage #3 was quite different from Peggy Church’s! It wasn’t unusual in those days for there to be armed guards outside all of the staff housing. Martha often spoke of disliking the need to hurry past the guards just to go to the library or the post office or even to the grocery store.

One day Martha slipped out to spend the afternoon visiting with a friend, but did so without realizing the guards stationed at the door when she returned were not the ones who’d been there when she left. She’d made a social visit and the poor woman had completely forgotten to take a pass with her. When she headed back home at the end of her social call, the guard wouldn’t let her back into her home! Martha had to ask her friend, Bernice Brode, to vouch for her. But it still took a lot of fast talking from the women to convince the guard to let Martha return to her own home!

22 Gun Salute!

It has often been said that the best party in Los Alamos happened not long after the Japanese surrender. As one might imagine, the night turned into a sea of drinks. Alcohol and explosives experts very rarely mix well, and the grand finale of the night happened after a dare was made to explosives expert George Kistiakowsky to arrange a 21 gun salute.

According to Craig Martin and Heather McClenahan, Kistiakowsky promptly retrieved twenty-one 50lb boxes of Composition B from the high explosives magazine. Kistiakowsky laid the boxes out in the field and used his electronic detonation skills to fire them off! “It was a very impressive performance,” Kistiakowsky stated later. “But when I got back to the party the bastards told me I fired 22 shots.”

So many things have changed here in Los Alamos over the last two decades. But I think a lot of us who grew up here remember situations just like that. Of using leftover equipment or materials for quirky and sometimes bizarre projects or celebrations or just for the heck of it! And if there was anywhere in the world where a 21 (or 22!) gun salute would’ve been appropriate that night, it was here in Los Alamos!

I hope you’ve enjoyed some of these strange and often silly short stories of early life on the Hill. Whether you want to found your own Culture Club or you feel like the Hill Biddies are more your style, I’d love to talk life in Los Alamos with you! And when you’re ready to find your own place to live and work here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m a local girl who loves Los Alamos and has a lifelong curiosity about our often unique housing options. So enjoy your Thanksgiving and let’s hope for a beautiful winter of fun here in Los Alamos County!

Tales of Los Alamos Vol. 1

Snow days in Los Alamos always seem to create a need to reminisce about the past. Of course, my thoughts first turned to epic snow days of the past, which you can read about HERE. And then I started thinking about what life must’ve been like a long time ago here in Los Alamos when it snowed like crazy. The one population here in Los Alamos that was absolutely out this past snow day, driving around like crazy people on a snow/work from home/no school/sleep in day were the Los Alamos Stable Owners. No matter how much snow falls, they’ve been known to cross country ski out there to get the horses fed and watered on time.

That got me thinking about Los Alamos in the early days. How on earth did they plow their way out of there when the snowfall was even heavier on a regular basis?

Jim Womelsduff was one of a handful of Los Alamos Ranch School employees who were critical to the success and sustainability of the community on the Pajarito Plateau. You can read a bit more about Jim in a previous post about the Chief Mechanic’s House. Jim’s nephew, Richard E. Womelsduff, wrote about his uncle in his manuscript, “It Was a Good Time and Place to Be a Boy”, the entirety of which can be read in the Wirth and Aldrich book, Los Alamos: The Ranch School Years. Jim Womelsduff was mechanically inclined in all of the best ways.

It seems consistent with most descriptions of early winters at the ranch school, that snowfall was considerable. As we all know, there aren’t that many ways in and out of Los Alamos. But Jim Womelsduff was responsible for clearing the access roads in and out and also from building to building since many of them were pretty far flung. (Would YOU want too shovel your way from the intersection at Trinity and 20th Streets to Fuller Lodge?) For this purpose, Jim actually designed and built enormous snowplows which could be attached to the Caterpillar tractors, which Jim also kept running. And THAT is how the school kept itself alive in the winter!

Science Class at the Local Ruins

Richard Womelsduff goes on to tell another tale of life in early Los Alamos regarding the native ruins located near the Romero Cabin on 19th St where the road dead ends into a parking lot connected to Central Park Square.

“There were Indian ruins on Los Alamos mesa as well as most places on the Pajarito Plateau. A small ruin mound of about five hundred square feet was located just a few yards to the west of the Big House. It showed a dozen or so small rooms and was worked on from time to time by a science class of schoolboys.”

Can you imagine getting an anthropology or archeology or even a geology lesson where you actually got to dig into a mound and uncover ruins for yourself? Evidently there were several more nearby ruins that were utilized in history seeking expeditions during the boys’ free time. Womelsduff’s account goes on to say, “These ruins were so prevalent all over the area that they were accepted as a normal part of our environment, with little thought given to the people who had once lived and died there.” Oddly enough, this rather reminds me of the general level of appreciation most of us felt about a trip to Bandelier during elementary school. Just another part of life in Los Alamos. As an adult, I’ve come to realize what an incredible opportunity this is!

Six Gun School Play

Richard Womelsduff tells another laughable story about the introduction of a formal elementary school for the local children of ranch school employees. This occurred when AJ Connell hired Fred Rousseau as the LARS business manager. Fred and his wife, Edna, promptly moved into Master Cottage #1. Edna took up a position as the elementary school teacher.

Richard does remember the bonus of a new grade school was that the old grade school building became the home of a horse wrangler named Ted Mather. Ted must’ve been like a character from a book or a tall tale to the young boys of the ranch school. The man came complete with a bow legged walk, a huge moustache, and a six gun that he actually wore strapped to his waist when out and about.

Richard was very pleased that Ted allowed him to borrow the gun, without bullets of course, for his part in the school play. Certainly any kiddo who grew up playing mountain man running about the wilds of early Los Alamos would love a chance to wave a six gun around as he acted in a school play. And perhaps nothing draws a more glaring line between the “good old days” and the here and now. Though I am reminded that our Los Alamos High School has a talented group of young trap and sporting clay shooters who participate in the “Young Guns” Club. It’s even a co-ed group that competes all over the state!

As we gear up for another winter here in Los Alamos and wonder what on Earth happened to autumn, let’s be happy we have things like teleworking, snow plows, central heat and modern wood, gas, and pellet stoves. At least when our fireplace is crackling merrily and we’re curled up in front of our favorite binge watching television, we aren’t usually worried about choking on smoke or having to run out to the forest to chop more wood!

There are so many more funny little tidbit tales about early life in Los Alamos. We’ll have to take a trip through the “Culture Club” era soon. And when you’re ready to find your perfect hearth in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to talk Los Alamos Housing and comfy living spaces in Los Alamos with you!

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