Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Author: Kendra (Page 10 of 19)

Trailer Living in Los Alamos

There is one thing that has always been and will likely always be true about housing in Los Alamos. It’s creative. Whether you live in group housing, a condo, an apartment, a single family home on Barranca Mesa, a five acre plot of land in Pajarito Acres, a mobile home, or even an Air BnB. You’ll probably agree that housing options in Los Alamos are sometimes unusual, but always creative!

There are currently three mobile home parks in Los Alamos. La Mesa and Tsikumu Village are up on North Mesa and of course Elk Ridge (formerly Royal Crest) is on East Jemez Rd at the top of what we locals often refer to as the “Truck Route”. Each mobile home park offers its own unique array of amenities.

Homeowners in Tsikumu Village own not only their manufactured home, but the lot it sits on. Some of these homes have incredible views from the canyon’s edge. La Mesa Trailer Park has a more traditional arrangement with manufactured homes owned by the homeowner and lots owned by a landlord. The park itself has a great location on North Mesa close to a dog park, playgrounds, athletic fields, and the Middle School. Elk Ridge offers a little more flexibility in the sort of “trailer home” an occupant wants to put on their rented lot. If you’ve got a travel trailer of any sort, you’re welcome to set up for “permanent” use at Elk Ridge.

It might be difficult to imagine choosing to live in your fifth wheel or camp trailer for months on end while working at LANL. However, if you look back at the beginning of Los Alamos housing history, you’ll find that Laboratory employees have been doing this since the very beginning. Not only that, but the sort of camping trailers available on the market in the 1940s weren’t going to come with a full kitchen, shower, satellite television, and perhaps even a gas fireplace. They were pretty basic back then. And a good number of them were manufactured by their owners.

Back in the early to mid 1940s, the Los Alamos site had already far exceeded its original call for “sufficient housing for a dozen scientists”. It didn’t take long for even the most skilled workers to be given a bed in 23 expandable trailers and 47 standard trailers. Even though the term “expandable trailer” calls to mind any number of modern camp trailers, these were most definitely not modern. By the time the sides had been folded away from the middle, the living room wound up being about 13×6 feet. If you can’t imagine what sort of space that is, think a box stall for livestock in a barn. Thank goodness they weren’t trying to fit their big screen television inside!

The trailers brought in to serve for temporary housing weren’t going to win any esthetic design contests.

Of course, if came to the Manhattan Engineer District when the trailer park was already full, you might have been assigned a hutment. Quonset Hutments were originally designed for war in the Pacific theater. Thanks to this fact, Los Alamos residents dubbed the huts the Pacific Hutments. Shaped a bit like an airplane hangar, these were used as duplexes with one front door on either end of the tube.

Last but not least, we come full circle to the folks who took the option to drive their own campers or “caravans” up to Los Alamos in order to take up residence in the trailer park. In his book about Los Alamos housing, Craig Martin estimates there were over 250 privately owned trailers parked in town to provide housing for their owners. If you’ve ever looked at a RV from the 1940s, they weren’t going to provide you with the creature comforts we expect from such a vehicle today. In fact, these didn’t even have any kind of indoor plumbing.

These days it isn’t uncommon for people to debate what to do with the MariMac Plaza or the old Hilltop House hotel. There’s been a lot of talk about how to best present Los Alamos to the public when newcomers first drive into town. Now, imagine a time before tourism. The first thing people saw when they approached the general vicinity of our new roundabout was a maze of over three hundred expandable, standard, and camper trailers. It’s rather amazing anyone stuck around!

Quonset Huts in the Pacific were white. Here in Los Alamos they were Army Green!

That’s right, folks. The location of Los Alamos’s very first “trailer park” is the lot occupied by the MariMac Plaza and the Hilltop House hotel. Just across Central Avenue from this “trailer park”, the Pacific Hutments crouched in rows of round topped buildings. Keep in mind that none of these dwellings had indoor plumbing. This meant that there were latrine and shower trailers parked in between the rows of trailers and hutments.

While Los Alamos wasn’t exactly putting its best foot forward back then, people were here for the mission and not the housing. Maybe, like almost all of us at one time, newcomers were so transfixed by the incredible views that they simply didn’t care how creative their housing was. They just wanted to be here in this amazing city on the hill. If you’d like to join the community of Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to talk Real Estate with you!

The First Single Family House in Los Alamos

Being in the Real Estate business, I hear so many things from buyers and sellers on what they feel makes a house a home. If you were to change up the geographical location, some folks might talk about a condo on a lake. Perhaps a penthouse apartment overlooking Central Park in New York City. Maybe they want a tiny apartment in some far flung location like Livorno, Italy where buildings are literally perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean.

Can you imagine?

Perhaps one of the most popular and longest lasting concepts of idyllic American life is the proverbial three bedroom, two bathroom house with a white picket fence, two children, two cars, and maybe a dog and a cat. Most of us grew up with this concept somewhere in our minds even though it’s certainly not the sort of place the cast of Sesame Street ever called home.

It shouldn’t be surprising then that one of the first and most often verbalized wishes of early Los Alamos residents was a desire for single family housing.

What many of us don’t realize is that the Ranch School Master Houses with their quaint log cabin looks and claw foot bathtubs weren’t used as single family housing during the war. Even Hans Bethe was sharing with physicist Edwin McMillan. The Arts & Crafts Cottage hosted Lt Col Whitney Ashbridge, Capt Gerald Tyler, A.L. Hughes, and Enrico Ferme at various times and sometimes more or less at once! These gentlemen occasionally had wives with them, but a good number of them were by themselves and sharing quarters while they worked sunup to sundown on the project of a lifetime.

The first single family homes in Los Alamos weren’t even intentionally created to satisfy the wishes of the residents. The project happened because of a sharp increase in personnel needed for the design of a plutonium implosion bomb in 1944. In July of that year, the Robert McKee Construction Company was contracted to bring in 100 prefabricated homes. The most readily available “houses” happened to be flat roofed units that resembled a box. Each building included small rooms in a basic layout that sat on blocks and weren’t even particularly airtight.

Well, there IS a white picket fence…

“McKeeville”, as it was soon called, was situated on seven city blocks that seemed to spring up overnight with absolutely no thought given to the landscape. Existing pinon and juniper trees were bulldozed to speed up construction. The location was essentially between Central Avenue and Canyon Road. Those city blocks no longer exist, but they would have been crammed into the area of present day Iris and Myrtle Streets. The houses were contracted in July 1944. By October of the same year they were ready and by Christmas they were full.

Once again, the residents of Los Alamos thought rather wistfully of the Sundt Apartments. When the Sundts had been built, the contractor had allowed the streets to flow with the natural landscape. Trees had been preserved. The neighborhoods seemed less “military” in looks and the buildings were sturdy and reliable.

Ah, the good old Sundt Apartments

In striking contrast, the McKee houses had cracks and crevices that did nothing to keep the dirt out. During the spring winds, furniture and appliances were coated with dust. Add the soot coming from the oil furnaces to the atmosphere in McKeeville and the entire neighborhood had a dingy, dirty feel to it. In short, they were a slight improvement on “Morganville“, but were most definitely not the sort of home you’d go out and purchase to live in on purpose.

The only thing residents agreed on was the the McKeeville homes were better than those in Morganville.

Residents of McKeeville had a variety of complaints about the latest cheap housing brought in to ease the overcrowding in Los Alamos. Bedrooms were so small that a double bed took up the entirety of the floor space. The houses were so similar and the streets so uniform, that it was nearly impossible to tell one dwelling from another. Remember that streets were not labeled back in those days. One resident commented that she felt fortunate the McKee house she shared with her husband was located next to the laundry unit. She reported using the laundry building to help her find her way home each day.

On the upside of the whole situation was Robert McKee’s insistence that inexpensive maple furniture be included in each McKee house. While these furnishings were still considered substandard compared to what most people had in their homes, it was apparently an upgrade from what was called GI furniture used in Morganville and the other housing in Los Alamos.

Pause for a moment or two and chuckle about that. Have you tried to shop for real maple furniture these days? Evidently residents of McKeeville in 1945 would not have been impressed by the bargains we find at IKEA. I have to wonder to myself if this GI furniture might not be similar to the prefab things we tend to pick up at Walmart or Target. Oh, the irony!

As always, I want to tip my hat to Craig Martin’s field guide to housing in Los Alamos. I encourage you to purchase a copy from the Los Alamos Historical Society for yourself. If you have any interest in Los Alamos housing, this book is a wealth of information. Keep checking back in with my blog as we continue our tour through Los Alamos housing past, present, and even future! And when you’re ready to start hunting for your own Los Alamos housing, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos Real Estate with you.

A Word About Los Alamos & Rent

There is not a doubt in anyone’s mind that the topic of rents, mortgage payments, and how much each individual is paying for one or the other is a worldwide issue. Before the recent fluctuations in interest rates, the historically low cost of borrowing money to purchase a home made buying more financially attractive than renting. Whether you pay rent here in Los Alamos or not, there are a few things to keep in mind. Some of these facts might make you feel a lot better about your current housing situation in Los Alamos.

How Important Are YOU?

While most of us are willing to acknowledge that there is something of a hierarchy attached to the importance of jobs, modern minds have begun to understand that the proverbial “rocket scientist” is really just as important in the grand scheme of things as “schoolteacher”, “doctor”, “lawyer”, and (for a lot of us lately) “fast food worker”. If nothing else, our experiences through the pandemic of not being able to go into a store, sit in a restaurant, or receive a package or mail because there was quite literally nobody to deliver it, have changed our values in a lasting way.

In the early 1940’s when Los Alamos was still a military installation doing top-secret work for the war effort, housing was assigned much in the same way it was assigned at any military installation. But instead of being assigned by rank, it was assigned based upon how important YOUR job was to the mission.

Of course, top staff members, prominent scientists, and other important persons were immediately assigned to Bathtub Row. The Ranch School Master Houses had indoor plumbing, decent kitchen facilities, were of a good size, and had the fabled bathtub. If you didn’t rate a Master House, you had very limited options when it came to your quarters.

The “Hans Bethe House”, named for one of its more historic occupants

Newcomers would be sent to the housing office, which was located in an old converted garage left from the ranch school days. They would fill out a form to establish their job or function on the Army post, and their family size. They would then be given a housing assignment and informed of what their rent would be each month.

A married couple rated one bedroom. Married with a child got a you a second bedroom. More than one child and you might get a three bedroom if there was one available. It was pretty common for Los Alamos residents to joke that nobody had better have more than three children at the most, and more than two kids was pushing it. Keep in mind that most of the three bedroom units available at that time were much smaller than the Group housing we are familiar with today. Ever considered living in your travel trailer with your kids for an extended period of time? Oh, and don’t forget that all of those modern conveniences available in your travel trailer wouldn’t have been a thing at all. Families didn’t even have their own furniture.

It might look fun, but how about doing it year round?

What Would YOU Pay to Live in a Shoebox?

The topic of Rents in Los Alamos really didn’t become a subject of discussion until 1944 when an influx of new workers caused the Army to hurriedly contract Morgan and Sons to “build” some 28 duplexes on an already flat and treeless section of land east of Bathtub Row. These pre fab duplexes would have essentially been the first housing in the vicinity of what is now Sage Loop.

Welcome home to “Morganville”. Doesn’t everyone want a coal bin in front to add to the curb appeal?

To call the housing project slapdash would probably be generous. There were eight one bedroom units, fifteen two bedroom units and five three bedroom units. The area was dubbed “Morganville” for the construction contractor. Buildings were boring and essentially identical and the streets were rigidly uniform. One resident was heard to call the houses “Little Horrors”. After all, the Army was desperately trying to make their budget stretch and had cut corners everywhere they could. These were supposed to be “temporary”. Why spend the cash to make them nice?

Morganville was really the first time that residents of Los Alamos had experienced a serious decline in the quality of housing. Suddenly the Sundt Apartments looked rather posh. And yet rents in Los Alamos were not determined by what housing unit you were assigned. They were determined by your salary.

The Sundts had their issues, but they were actually solidly build dwellings.

Kay Mark, wife of physicist Carson Mark, was said to have called the system of housing and rents in Los Alamos a “curious experiment in socialism: To each according to his need; from each according to his salary.”

Anyone who earned less than $2600 per year paid $17/mo in rent. While it’s difficult to imagine living on $2600 per year, that was a respectable salary in 1944. It’s equally impossible to imagine paying $17/mo in rent! But if you were one of the highest paid scientists at that time you might have been paying $67/mo in rent. Would you be irritated if you were a scientist paying three times the amount of rent for your cramped, poorly constructed and cheaply built Morganville house when a regular day laborer was paying $17/mo for a much nicer place in a prettier neighborhood?

It’s such an interesting system. And if you truly appreciate the evolution of the housing market here in Los Alamos, take a moment to see just how far things have come in some areas, and how they haven’t changed at all in others. It simply doesn’t do any justice to the history of housing in Los Alamos not to consider the way it all began. There is nowhere else like it and whether you fully understand it or not, moving to Los Alamos makes YOU a part of this amazing history!

View of Rio Grande and a home above taken from a spot near Hell Hole in White Rock.

The good news is that the Morganville houses are no longer part of the housing pool here in Los Alamos. And while we’re not paying $17 or even $67 per month for housing, the home prices are certainly beginning to stabilize in response to national trends in interest rates and home buying. So when you’re ready to talk housing here in Los Alamos, please give me a call! I’m your hometown Los Alamos Real Estate Broker, and I’d love to chat with you!

The Oldest “House” in Los Alamos

If I asked you which home in Los Alamos is the “oldest”, your mind would probably meander toward Bathrub Row with its row of log cabin homes dating back to the Los Alamos Ranch School. Or, you might be one of the local history buffs who can name off one of the homesteader cabins currently sitting over at the North Mesa Stables, having been transported there decades ago to be used for animal shelters.

Early cabin or barn? You decide…

Either of those options would certainly fit the description of the “oldest house”. But there’s another “oldest house” sitting on Trinity Drive not far from the hospital that is very much an “oldest house” in its own right.

The addition to the right of the building was added at some point after original construction.

Going all the way back to the beginning of Los Alamos, the scientific staff was housed in the ranch school buildings. But even from the beginning when Oppenheimer and Bradbury were trying to visualize what Site Y might look like, there was an open acknowledgement that the Manhattan Project had two parts. The Science part and the Laboratory part. Mostly meaning that while you can brainstorm an idea all you want, if there is ever going to be a project, there has to be a facility to build it in.

Building a facility requires laborers, construction staff, support personnel, administrative staff, and probably so many other people that it isn’t surprising the theme of Los Alamos from the beginning has been, “Um, where are we supposed to put all of these folks?”

In December of 1942, M.M. Sundt Construction Company was contracted to build… Build what? It isn’t as if they could tell anyone in detail what was being built in the mysterious city. So, Eugene Sundt is said to have taken one look at the plans he was handed and decided he was building a small military post for about 200 men. Accurate guess wasn’t it? Well, except for the 200 men bit. The number of employees/residents has never been accurate. Not then. Not now.

The reason Sundt’s company was given the contract was that they’d only just finished a large scale project in “nearby” Las Vegas, NM. The Tucson based contractor had a one stop shop for construction. Everything from framing to painting, plumbing, electrical, and everything in between. His equipment was already in the area and ready to go. The fewer contractors read into the project, the better for the secrecy of Los Alamos.

By March 1943, Sundt’s company had opened 42 duplex apartments for use of the staff at Los Alamos. These apartments were clustered in an arc from about where Central Park Square is now to the intersection of Trinity and Oppenheimer Drives. These apartment buildings were called Sundts. The first batch were one bedroom single story duplexes.

Apartments were accessed by narrow curving streets following the natural grade of the land in order to decrease the cost of building roads and dealing with drainage issues. The first Sundts looked like log cabins. The eventual calling card of all Sundts was an enormous stovepipe jutting out from the roof at a height that most people agreed looked ridiculous.

Eventually, Sundts included, one, two, and even three bedroom duplexes and quadruplexes with four units per building. As the war continued and certain construction material limitations went into place, Sundts went from log cabin style, to attractive white clapboard siding and a pitched roof, and eventually to a flat roofed building sided with plasterboard covered in a dull green tar paper. It did not make for much in the way of curb appeal! In fact, those assigned to tar paper covered Sundts called the original log cabin style Sundts “Snob Hollow” and the clapboard sided ones “de Sundts”. People really don’t change, do we?

The tarpaper exterior made for a dark and foreboding building.

The building sitting at 3491 Trinity Drive is a flat roof quadruplex built with the last group of Sundts contracted in 1943. Records indicate the building went up in 1950. Considering the convoluted history of recordkeeping in Los Alamos, it’s possible that date isn’t entirely accurate because the Sundts were never meant to be permanent structures anyway. For whatever reason, most likely having to do with terrain, that building was the furthermost Sundt from the center of “town” back in the late forties. The other Sundts were clustered around the land sitting between Trinity Drive and Canyon Road. A few of the original one bedroom duplexes were in the vicinity of Peach Street behind Bathtub Row. Those would have been the “Snob Hollow” Sundts.

It’s difficult for a modern eye to decide that the white clapboard siding really makes this version more attractive than the later tar paper covered Sundts.

Since most of the other Sundts were torn down to make way for modernized apartment buildings and condos, it’s highly possible that the conversion of that last building from residence to dental office more than a few decades ago is responsible for its preservation. Oddly enough, though the building is zoned for commercial use, it is still considered a condo with an A and B side. I don’t know if it’s fortunate or unfortunate that an updating of the HVAC system eventually eliminated the trademark stovepipe jutting out of the roof. The original Sundts all had a central coal burning furnace that heated all the apartment units inside. Former residents have spoken about how hot the buildings were even in the dead of winter and how difficult it was to maintain a consistent temperature. I don’t think any of us would enjoy sitting in a dental operatory with the temperature hovering somewhere between hot-summer-day and hell-on-earth!

A few fun facts about the Sundts and other early housing options here in Los Alamos:

  • There were no street signs or addresses in Los Alamos. Your building had a T Number and newcomers had to wander the confusing, curved roads asking directions until they stumbled upon their housing assignment.
  • Eventually there were 332 Sundt apartment units in Los Alamos.
  • The common furnace in a Sundt required a “furnace man” to stoke the fire and put in coal. To make coal delivery easier, the coal chute and therefore the kitchen, were on the side closest to the “road”. So the back of a Sundt was the front and vice versa.
  • Cooking units were coal and wood burning. These “black beauties” were so outdated it would have been like cooking on your Great Great Grandma’s stove.
  • The item most sought after by wives living in Sundts were electric hot plates. Electricity was in high demand for laboratory functions in Los Alamos so all electrical appliances were essentially banned. That meant you had to buy an electric hot plate on the black market.
  • The furnace of a Sundt was too big for the size of the building. As a result, the water would often come out of the pipes already boiling.
  • Cast iron was considered vital to the war effort. In 1942 the government stopped all new homes from having a bathtub installed. The Sundts were built with a shower only, and THAT is how Bathtub Row got its name. Those bathtubs predated the war rationing on cast iron. Bathtubs would not make another appearance in Los Alamos housing until the Denver Steels were built.

So take a trip down Trinity Drive and take a peek at the last remaining Sundt apartment in Los Alamos. It looks very unassuming in its current stuccoed form. But if you want to really appreciate your own housing situation in Los Alamos, remind yourself that the Sundt was, for quite a long time, the best available housing in Los Alamos. In fact, until the Denver Steels and then the Western Area were built, the Sundts were preferred by residents. Their floorplans were much roomier than other options available at the time, and they had indoor plumbing! And when you’re ready to find your own home in Los Alamos, indoor plumbing included of course, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos Real Estate with you!

The Kitchen Sink Crisis

Have you ever stood at your kitchen sink and paid attention to something other than what’s in that sink? Believe it or not, the question of whether or not a person had the ability to gaze out the window while washing up, dishes or otherwise, became a really hot topic in Los Alamos sometime around 1947.

By January of 1946 there was a firm agreement among the “powers that be” that Los Alamos was going to become a permanent facility. There were multiple opinions regarding what, exactly, the identity of that facility would be. But Los Alamos was deemed necessary and that meant transitioning the town from what amounted to a giant hodgepodge collection of temporary housing, trailers, huts (yes, they were called hutments!), and old ranch school buildings, into a viable town with real housing for scientists, support staff, and their growing families.

The first place tagged for Los Alamos expansion was the Western Area. It seemed logical mostly because the land was already clear and flat-ish. “Ish” because the natural mountain meadow of Western Area had been the town golf course and horse pasture for years. The other thing that made it desirable was the probability of getting utilities over there without having to jump a canyon in order to do so.

Community planner Lawrence B Sheridan was commissioned to design a neighborhood. It was the height of modernity with the big horseshoe main drag and swooping side streets ending in quiet cul-de-sacs. Pictured below during construction, Western Area was supposed to be the answer to the housing crisis in Los Alamos. By 1947, there were more than a few barriers between dreams and reality.

Western Area Under Construction

The building contract was won by a company called McKee. The builder came up with two different models. One was concrete block covered in stucco and the other was wood frame with siding. Since there were no streets in the Western Area at the time these sample homes were built, the homes went up on Spruce Street. The Army Commander in charge at that time crowed that “Every home will have a bathtub!” While that was true, there was a laundry list of other things that worried potential occupants.

A women’s organization called the Mesa Club actually made a detailed list of improvements they felt necessary to render the model homes liveable. The list was detailed because one of the complaints was that the linen closet was not deep enough to adequately accommodate a set of folded sheets. Other items of complaint were that the windows were not set as to encourage a cross breeze, the windows in the children’s rooms were too high, and the major complaint was that the kitchen sink was placed in such a way that it faced a blank wall. After all, whoever heard of a kitchen sink that didn’t have a window over it?

If you’ve ever lived in a modern apartment complex you might have had more than a few kitchens without any windows at all. Of course, what the Mesa Club wasn’t grasping was that an optimal way to cut construction costs was to place the kitchen sink near the same wall that housed the plumbing for the bathroom. The Commander scoffed at the ladies’ complaints and told them there was no call for building “custom type houses”. After all, the last housing actually built in Los Alamos were the Sundt Apartments. (If you don’t know what a Sundt is, I’m planning a post about these fascinating apartments later on.) For a cost comparison, a Sundt Apartment building that housed up to four families cost $3000 to build. Each single family home or half duplex in the Western Area project carried a price tag of $14000!

But the ladies of the Mesa Club weren’t about to drop the topic of the kitchen sink. They rallied their husbands, a good number of them prominent Laboratory employees. 30 of the Laboratory’s top scientists put their signatures on a letter which was sent to Washington DC. The letter cited more than one issue with the housing options planned for the Western Area. Houses had only gone up on 41st and 42nd Streets before a task force was assigned to come out here to Los Alamos to see what all the fuss was about. Yes. A task force was called out over the kitchen sink… The next time you think you have a housing issue here in Los Alamos, just remind yourself of kitchen sinks and laugh.

This modified Western has some updating, but a lot of the exterior features are still present and make for an attractive home. Imagine how amazing this might have looked to a family previously living in a hutment or trailer with outdoor plumbing!

Needless to say, the kitchen sink was indeed moved. Because of this, for quite some time there were half a dozen houses on 41st and 42nd Streets that had the kitchen sink in the original position. It’s a safe bet that these have undergone plenty of renovations over the years. But sometimes I am just a bit curious to know if there are still homes in the Western Area with the kitchen sink facing a blank wall.

One of the most luxurious features was the third bedroom available in more than one version of the Western Area homes. To families who had been sleeping in cramped quarters for quite some time, it probably felt huge! Still, homes were assigned based upon family size. To merit a three bedroom home, you needed to be a family of at least five people. And while there was a bathtub in every house, a good number of these homes did not come with a shower. Believe it or not, tub and shower combos were not considered “standard” until well into the eighties.

Construction on Western Area continued once the initial complaints were addressed. Construction began at the intersection of Trinity and Diamond Drives and went around the horseshoe expanding first to the West, then the North, and then East. This created a bizarre situation for some families. Because of construction traffic, if you were assigned a house on the Northern side of the horseshoe, you got to move in last even though your home had been finished for months!

A good example of an Orignal Western. While the carport is now enclosed, you can see how basic the home design is. Also note the “high windows” in the “children’s room”.

Because of the delays in building the Western Area, and the housing crunch in general, there were several other short term housing options brought in to fill the gap. Last week I blogged about the Denver Steels – or Denver Metals. If you missed that post, click here. There were a few other short term options that I’ll talk about in future posts. But until then, don’t forget to pick up Craig Martin’s book about Los Alamos housing. Some of the information is bound to make the pieces of our housing history click into place! You can purchase Quads, Duplexes, and Sunken Living Rooms here. And when you’re ready to go in search of your own Dream Home in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos Real Estate with you!

What’s the Deal With Denver Steel?

All villages, towns, and cities have neighborhoods with names that go way back. Most of these names made perfect sense in the beginning, but the meanings might have been lost over time for any number of reasons. Los Alamos has more than a few oddly named neighborhoods. After all, our most historic area of town is called “Bathtub Row”. But another one of my all time favorites is the “Denver Steels” neighborhood tucked just behind Los Alamos High School on Pueblo Mesa. Believe it or not, the Denver Steels has the dubious honor of being one of the very first single family home neighborhoods in Los Alamos County.

Original drawing of a Denver Steel home

There are a lot of myths about how the Denver Steels got to Los Alamos. Really though, they aren’t myths so much as blended stories about early housing solutions proposed and executed in an effort to ease the housing crisis in Post War Los Alamos.

Myth #1

The homes were shipped here from the Washington State area. I’ve even heard a variation where they were the previous dwellings of steel workers in Washington State, hence the Denver Steels name. Of course, this myth makes no mention of how the word “Denver” came into play.

The truth is that there were temporary houses shipped to Los Alamos from Washington State. The Manhattan Engineer District, or MED, was in charge of operations in 1946. While the Western Area was being built, which was a whole other hassle we’ll talk about some other time, the MED brought 107 “houses” from their plutonium facility in Hanford, WA to Los Alamos. The homes were placed along 10th Street, Rim Road, and Canyon Road. I don’t know about you, but I seriously wish I could’ve been witness to the caravan of 214 flatbed trailers trucking up the Main Hill Road, each with half a Hanford Home strapped onboard. What a sight!

Literally the quote from potential occupants was, “Well, they have indoor plumbing!”

Myth #2

The Denver Steels were originally military troop housing on a base somewhere else in the US. Maybe Denver? There are certainly a number of potential military installations in the Colorado region to choose from. But this myth is once again, not a myth, but a truth based upon another temporary housing solution from our past.

The military installation was Fort Leonard Wood in Missouri and the units were duplexes, triplexes, and quadraplexes. There were 270 units of these wood framed domiciles and honestly they looked like military housing. Each individual “pod” was 672 square feet. The structures were placed on Canyon Road, Manhattan Loop, and what used to be M, O, & P Streets in 1947. Currently those areas are in the vicinity of Myrtle and Pine Streets. At the time of their initial usage, these homes were considered the most desirable housing in Los Alamos. Yet the major complaint was that people wanted single family housing. Sound familiar?

There was a definite military look to these homes.

The Real Story

In late 1947 the Army authorized the purchase of housing for the military officers still stationed here in Los Alamos. At that time there were a lot of pre fab housing experiments going on in the US. You can check out my Lustron Homes post if you want to read more about that. But this shouldn’t be a surprise if you think about it. This was Post War America, the Baby Boomer generation was being born. Families wanted the American Dream they’d fought so hard for and they wanted it now! So the pre fab housing boom created some really interesting options.

Enter the Denver Steels. Or rather, the Denver Metals, as they were originally known. These units had steel I-beam framing and aluminum siding. They were fabricated by a steel company in Denver, Colorado and shipped in pieces to Los Alamos where they were assembled in record time.

718 sq ft of no nonsense utility – All were 2 bedroom and one bathroom

It might surprise you to know that the first 39 of these homes were actually placed over on Rim Road and Quartz not far from the other temporary housing brought to Los Alamos. Perhaps that’s where the myths got jumbled together. None of those 39 original Denver Steels are still around. They went the way of the Hanford homes and the Fort Leonard Wood multi units.

There were originally 251 Denver Steels ordered, but only 200 of them managed to be carefully situated onto Pueblo Mesa. Of those 200, half were reserved for the new civilian security inspectors coming into town. Craig Martin’s book on housing in Los Alamos doesn’t specify where the missing 12 were placed. But it’s probable that they were near the original 39 in an area that underwent multiple overhauls. Truthfully, the Denver Steels weren’t intended to be long term housing options for families in Los Alamos.

The original units were 718 square feet. Every home had two bedrooms and one bathroom and there was no bathtub. Only a shower. There were two models available from the company. The Marquette and the Columbine. Strangely, there were only 2 Marquettes ordered. The rest of the homes were the Columbine model and considering the minimal differences between the two, trying to find those two Marquettes would be like chasing the proverbial needle in the haystack. The most memorable feature of the Denver Steels wasn’t a feature at all. It was the fact that the all metal construction created a bizarre situation of simultaneous sweating and freezing in the wintertime. This resulted in the exterior walls being coated with ice. It would be interesting to know if this worked like natural insulation or not. But considering the mass amount of renovating, remodeling, and updating that has gone on in the Denver Steels in the last 75 years, it would be unlikely that any of the homes still have that unique problem.

Hard to believe that this inviting home ever resembled that original drawing!

Truly, the renaissance of the Denver Steels has been incredible. The area has long been considered a “starter” home neighborhood here in Los Alamos because of the modest square footage of the homes and the reasonable pricing. But some of the remodels have nearly doubled the 718 sq ft homes and in the last two years some of the sale prices of these beautifully updated homes have rivaled those of other “higher end” neighborhoods in town.

This home still has the original front window configuration. Two panes on the right, three on the left!

Though many of the updated versions of the Denver Steels have been added onto, it is sometimes still possible to see the ghost of the original construction if you know what you’re looking for. Take a tour of the neighborhood sometime and you’ll get a peek at the wonderful creativity and ingenuity of homeowners throughout the years.

Can YOU see the original structure?

As always, Craig Martin’s book, Quads, Shoeboxes and Sunken Living Rooms: A History of Los Alamos Housing, has been an invaluable and fascinating resource for this post. If you haven’t already, you should pick one up from the Historical Society’s Website. It’s a great resource for anyone who loves the uniqueness of Los Alamos, or even if it drives you nuts! And as always, if you’re ready to talk Real Estate in Los Alamos, I’m your hometown Real Estate Broker. Give me a call! I’d love to talk with you!

Many Hands Make Work Light

There’s no doubt that we’ve all experienced that down and out feeling. It could be a natural disaster like a fire or a flood. Maybe it’s a financial disaster such as property theft or loss of a job. Loss comes in many different forms. The key to surviving loss is having a support network to help connect you to the right resources when you need them.

The key to surviving these challenges in life is support. A helping hand. A listening ear. Someone who can hear your story, nod their head, and then say, “I know exactly who to call”. Since 1969, the non-profit Self Help Inc has been doing just that.

Located in Los Alamos County and based out of the Bethlehem Lutheran Church, Self Help Inc offers consultation, advocacy, emergency financial assistance, and seed money grants to Northern New Mexico individuals, families, and businesses. Their goal is to empower others to get back on their feet and become self sustaining and independent. It’s an important mission that takes on all new meaning as this year’s record breaking Hermit’s Peak/Calf Canyon fire impacts our neighboring communities in Northern New Mexico.

While Self Help Inc primarily helps those in Los Alamos, Taos, Rio Arriba, and Northern Santa Fe County, they have also made a positive impact on other rural communities north of the Santa Fe City line. Their model of helping others focuses on three things, Emergency Financial Assistance, Seed Money Grants, and Resources.

Emergency Relief

Most of us have experienced that moment of fear and utter hopelessness that comes with a financial situation we simply cannot handle. A sudden illness that leaves us unable to pay our rent or mortgage. The car breaking down when we have no money for repairs and desperately need it for day to day transportation. The list goes on and on. Whether it’s help with utility bills in the middle of winter or groceries in a crisis, Self Help Inc has a solution to offer.

Part of their success in helping individuals and families in crisis has come from their creativity. Money isn’t always the answer. Perhaps an individual just got the new job of their dreams, but doesn’t have enough ready cash to purchase clothes or the necessary uniform to get them through their first paycheck. In that case, a few pairs of scrubs could be the answer to everything!

If you know someone in crisis or have experienced an emergency crisis yourself, the key to reaching out for the helping hand. It’s the hardest step and Self Help Inc has tried to make this as easy and painless as possible. Simply fill out their contact form HERE, and one of their experience staff members will reach out to YOU.

Seed Money Grants

This may be an unfamiliar phrase, but the meaning is pretty darned cool. Seed Money is used to give potential businesses a boost! Perhaps a talented photographer who wants to start a professional business but can’t quite afford all of the equipment necessary. Maybe you’d like to start a business and you’ve got everything ready to go but can’t afford the licensing fees. Seed Money is exactly what it sounds like. The seeds that help to grow your business into a self sustaining, contributing member of the community landscape!

One of the recent businesses helped by Self Help Inc was Muy Salsas in Los Alamos. I think we should all make a donation of gratitude to Self Help Inc in honor of Taco Tuesdays!

Resources

When you feel overwhelmed by circumstance, sometimes the only thing you need is a listening ear and someone to help you decide what the next step is. In the last few years, Self Help Inc has been doing their best to make as many network connections all over Northern New Mexico as they can. These connections enable them to know exactly who to put YOU in touch with when you’re facing a problem and you don’t know what to do. The amazing thing is how much comfort you can get from someone listening to your story and then offering reassurance that this isn’t the first time they’ve known someone facing your situation. It’s comforting to have someone identify possible next steps, and then name resources to help you make those steps happen. So many of us could keep moving forward in life if we only knew what direction to take!

Helping Self Help Inc

In this day and age it’s difficult to know how best to help your community and your world. You can hit any social media platform and be offered thousands of “buttons” that give you the opportunity to donate money to a worthy cause. Whether you’d like to give your time or you want to donate cash, the coolest thing about partnering with Self Help Inc is that your contribution, whether it’s labor or money, is being automatically diversified. Self Help Inc partners with the United Way of New Mexico and more community foundations than I can name off. For a peek at their partners, click on this link. Maybe the most important piece is that supporting Self Help Inc allows you to support our community.

So when you’re ready to help out in Los Alamos, check out Self Help Inc. And when you’re ready to buy and sell real estate in Los Alamos, call me! I love to talk anything Los Alamos and I’m your hometown real estate broker!

What Lessons Did YOU Learn?

I don’t know about the rest of you, but I did a little rain dance this past week when the clouds finally rolled in and a whole fifty drops of moisture fell from the sky. A rise in humidity and a lowering of the temperature has given the firefighters a helping hand with the Cerro Pelado Fire. Los Alamos is back to the “Ready” Stage of “Ready, Set, Go!” and the haze of smoke hanging over us has lessened.

My question to you, friends and neighbors of Los Alamos, is what did YOU learn through this most recent potential evacuation? Whether your lessons involved places to go, what to take, or even what sources of information are reliable, they are too important not to remember. Let’s make certain it doesn’t take another near evacuation for us to at least have a plan in place.

Where to Go

This question has far more pieces to it than a lot of us imagined. With three kids and more than one pet in my home, the logistics of getting our crew to a safe place took a bit of planning. And that isn’t just because my growing son is more than six feet tall and requires not only space but a serious amount of calorie intake!

I hadn’t anticipated just how anxious my kiddos were about the potential evacuation. Our dogs are current on their standard vaccinations, but if we’d had to kennel them we would have needed a few extra shots I hadn’t counted on. And don’t get me started on our feline friend! It was one heck of a search to find the cat carrier and I know from chatting with friends that they were also seeking animal crates and considering for the first time how they might transport everything from hermit crabs or chickens, to goats, and even horses!

The long and the short of it is, we’re probably going to have to do this again at some point. Perhaps even this year (though I fervently hope not!) and maybe even next year or the year after. So, what did YOU learn about finding a safe place for your family and all of your pets or animal companions? Is there anything YOU can do to make future emergencies easier on your family?

What to Take

This question became the hottest topic on Facebook so far this year! The last time we evacuated in Los Alamos it was 2011. Over a decade ago. So much has changed in a decade. A LOT of the paper documents that we used to consider vital to our evacuation just aren’t necessary anymore. Bank statements and other financial documents are stored in the cloud. Even photographs can be uploaded with the help of technology into a format that can be accessed from a smartphone!

The question then becomes, what can YOU do to streamline the packing process during an emergency? How can you prepare yourself and your family so that when the time comes you simply get your family, your pets, and maybe a quick overnight bag so you can just go?

Who to Trust

This question is far more complicated. The amount of misinformation floating around town and probably coast to coast was unbelievable! There’s not a single doubt that social media became a bit of an enemy as people compared their evacuation plans in the comments and revved one another up until a frenzy of fear and worry added to the smoke hanging over Los Alamos.

It takes a lot of willpower not to give into the urge to troll the various social media sites looking for every scrap of gossip about the fire. It also takes willpower to limit yourself to the National Forest Fire Information website. But choosing what news sources you get your information from can eliminate so many worries! And if you have friends that might be a little prone to drama, now is the time to establish some boundaries when it comes to how much of that drama you’re going to absorb! Boundaries are far easier to establish during low key times rather than waiting until the entire world seems to be going nuts.

Regardless of how you handled yourself in this recent high tension situation, there are lessons to be learned. What worked, what did NOT, or what you think you could make easier for yourself and your family if something happens again. Because it’s probably a sure thing that something will happen again. At some time. We DO live on the edge of the wilderness here in the City on the Hill! But no matter what happens, Los Alamos is a great place to be! And when you’re ready to seek out a hometown Real Estate Broker, give me a call! I’d love to talk Los Alamos with you!

You Can Still Have Fun Outside During Stage 3 Restrictions

There’s a lot of chatter around Los Alamos about the declaration of Stage 3 Fire Restrictions here in Los Alamos. There’ve also been reports that as of this morning, Thursday May 19, 2022, the National Forests have been closed as well. This move on the part of the Forest Service and Los Alamos County isn’t unlike a stern parent making a decision to limit the activities of their children for very good reasons. Sure. We’re all disappointed. School is about to end, the sky is blue, the sun is hot, and it would be wonderful to escape down to the canyon floor to enjoy a hike in the shade.

But last week we were talking about possible evacuations due to extreme fire danger and the Cerro Pelado fire. So this week, I want to focus on all of the amazing things you can still do here in Los Alamos in order to get outside.

For the Kids

This might be a really great opportunity to reacquaint yourself with the Pajarito Environmental Education Center! The outdoor demonstration gardens and nature play area are still fair game for visitors. Check out their website HERE and plan a visit soon! It’s a great way to get outside and enjoy the fresh air here in town.

Park Hopping

There are very likely more than a few parks here in town that you’re not aware of. It’s highly likely you’ve heard of a Pub Crawl. So why not do a much healthier version and Park Crawl all over Los Alamos County? Pull up a Google Map and type in “Parks in Los Alamos”. I bet you’ll see more than a few on the list that you’ve never heard of in places you’d never expect! Pack a snack and plan on visiting those parks one at at time until you’ve seen them all!

And while you’re doing your Park Crawl, don’t forget to check out the resting place for a lot of the old playground equipment retired from parks in Los Alamos County, the Miniature Golf Course. Many of you might not realize that Los Alamos County maintains a miniature golf course. During Covid 19 restrictions, the county opted to stop renting equipment, but you can always buy your own and make this activity a regular on your list of cool things to do in town!

For Everyone

Not that everyone can’t play miniature golf, but if you’re itching to get out and about here are a few suggestions for changing up your hiking, biking, walking, riding, running, or dog walking scenery:

Tour the Neighborhoods

Pull up that Google Map again and plan a trip to a neighborhood you’ve never visited before. Be polite to the residents as your walk their streets. Pick up the official Field Guide to Los Alamos Housing and then take yourself on a tour to find the various group housing areas of Los Alamos. Challenge yourself to discover the remaining Lustron Homes. In some of our neighborhoods, nature is just as close as it is out on the trail.

Don’t forget you can still use paved trails such as the Canyon Rim Trail. Try taking one of these in order to connect you to a neighborhood you’ve never visited before. You might be surprised what you find here in Los Alamos.

Tour the Acres

You may or may not know that there is a paved trail that meanders through Pajarito Acres and La Senda in White Rock as well. Perhaps this is your opportunity to explore country living in Los Alamos County and enjoy a walk or a run while enjoying some fresh scenery.

Now, my fellow residents, if you’ve got additional ideas of how to get outside and enjoy yourself despite fire restrictions, put them in the comments of my Facebook Post! I’d love to hear how you keep busy and stay active no matter what season it is. And when you’re ready to join our community here in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to chat Real Estate with you!

What IS Good Information Anyway?

There is no doubt that a haze of anxiety hangs over Los Alamos. Sure, there’s a layer of smoke from the Cerro Pellado fire too, but the anxiety is a very real thing that many of us feel right now. Whether your anxiety comes from having to evacuate for wildfires in previous years, or it comes from never having done this before and feeling completely out of control, anxiety is still very real and very difficult to deal with. With that in mind, I’ve asked my friends at Los Alamos Family Council for some thoughts about mental health during these difficult times.

The Past

The 2011 Las Conchas fire was the last evacuation of Los Alamos County. That particular fire was burning very hot and moved quite fast. In addition, several of the public notification systems were quite new and there were still a few bugs that needed to be worked out. It’s true that evacuation was haphazard and created the need for residents to throw what they could into a suitcase at 2:00AM in the morning.

In 2000 when Cerro Grande burned parts of Los Alamos, the technology for both wildland firefighting and also emergency management was much less developed. Can you remember back to 2000? Here’s a fact to keep in mind: Facebook wasn’t even created until 2004. Created, not even widely used. Yes. We had Internet in the year 2000, but while information was more readily available, it wasn’t nearly the beast that social media has become.

What We Learned

The best news of all right now is that our emergency planning teams have learned a lot from past fires. Not just here in Los Alamos, but all over the country! When folks here in Los Alamos take a walk at the North Mesa Stables and see almost all of the animals gone, take comfort in realizing they have been preemptively and voluntarily evacuated by their owners in order to make things less hectic if a full scale evacuation actually needs to happen. Horses, cattle, llamas, sheep, goats, and chickens can’t just be loaded into the backseat of an SUV so they can watch a video on the way down to Santa Fe. The logistics involved in moving livestock is considerable. So let’s pause to be glad there won’t be a hundred stock trailers tooling down the mountain with you and your household pets.

The same goes for vulnerable populations like the residents of Sombrillo and Aspen Ridge. Taking time to move these elderly residents allows them to be treated with extra special care. Their caregivers can find appropriate medical facilities to host them and have ample time to make sure their routines and medical needs are kept as intact as possible. So instead of viewing this portion of the preemptive evacuation as alarming, see it as proactive and helpful to you and your family.

Just Another Trip

Picture the last time you boarded an airplane. Are you one of those people who wants an assigned seat and then waits until the last possible second to board so you don’t have to be squished into that airplane seat for hours on end?

Perhaps you’re a family with small kiddos or pets and you take advantage of the early boarding to get your kids on board and settled in. Maybe boarding early lets you set up the tablet and get the livestream going so your children aren’t driving you crazy during the flight. Or maybe your pets need some calming meds so they aren’t completely stressed out during their trip. Either way, there are decisions to be made in order to make traveling easier.

Think about this potential evacuation like an airplane trip. Do you want to stay off the plane (in your own home) until the last possible second or do you just want to get on the plane? Would you rather get someplace and get settled and just plan on being there for a little longer (and nobody can even say what that would look like right now)?

When To Take Your Trip

This decision is really important. But going back to the title of my post, it’s also critical that the decision of when to go, where to go, how to go, and when you plan on returning is made with the help of viable information sources. Don’t get sucked into a race to evacuate created by the recent Facebook Frenzy! This is not a race. Reports from the incident team and Fire Chief Troy Hughes suggest we’re going to have 24 to 48 hours to pack up and go. Be calm and get your information directly from the Community Updates or the Forest Service. Don’t get them from your favorite Facebook Group, Instagram, or Snapchat. Don’t give into someone else’s anxiety. Take a mental step back, check the real news, breathe, and make an active plan with your family. And if you’re really that worried, go!

Los Alamos is still an amazing place to live! We have so many things to do, beautiful sights to see, and a fascinating history to learn. For right now, I hope that all of you stay safe here in Los Alamos or wherever your plan takes you! If you’re truly feeling overwhelmed by anxiety, the Los Alamos Family Council Counseling Center will remain open until Los Alamos moves to “Go!” status and the counseling center closes to maintain the safety of their employees and the firefighting personnel with boots on the ground. Family Council offers telehealth services anywhere in New Mexico and has resources available for those in need regardless of their insurance or socioeconomic situation. And when things settle down and you’re ready to talk real estate in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to chat with you!

Thanks to Karla Palmer, LMHC, of Los Alamos Family Council for her contribution to this week’s post!

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