Los Alamos Homecoming 2024 is underway and as the entire district has been dressing up and finding weird non anything-but-a-backpack things to carry their school stuff in, I thought it might be an interesting moment to look back at some of the first “public” schools in our town’s long history.
Truly, the major theme in the history of Los Alamos is education. It’s been the most consistent topic of concern in this town from the time before we WERE a town. I think one of the things I find most interesting about Los Alamos and school is that our first public school was the WPA Sandoval County Elementary School. WPA stood for Works Progress Administration. This program built almost 6000 schools during the 1930s as part of The New Deal public works program designed by Franklin D Roosevelt. The idea was to revitalize American job prospects through education, nutrition, access to academic and health testing (think basic vision and hearing tests) and also through nutritional lunch programs in schools.
Not that the kids of the Los Alamos Ranch School employees and the Pajarito Plateau weren’t educated prior to the 1930s. Several of the local families who were employed by the ranch school would take turns educating the children who lived in and around the area. But sometime between 1931 and 1935, that changed with the arrival of the Rousseau family.
AJ Connell hired business manager Fred Rousseau in 1931. Fred worked for Connell to manage the business side of LARS. But Fred’s wife, Edna Rousseau, was a schoolteacher. Connell asked Edna to take up a teaching position in the little stone schoolhouse located to the west of Ashley Pond and the Big House. Connell renovated the original Master Cottage, Master Cottage #1, for the Rousseau’s to live in, and the school building was newly built once she arrived on the scene.
The schoolhouse was located in the general vicinity of what would eventually become Central School during the Manhattan Project, (more about life at Central School in a future post!). The little stone schoolhouse was a rectangular building which had a little basement where a wood stove was managed by older schoolboys to provide heat during the winter so the poor students didn’t freeze!
The one room could be divided into two by a pleated divider, (sounds familiar to some of us!) and so there were two classrooms. Edna Rousseau was eventually joined by Amador Gonzales to teach grades 1-8. Records and reports from adults who had attended the school suggest there were around 20 students per year give or take a few.
A good number of the kiddos attending public school were Hispanic. Fermor and Peggy Church’s three boys attended as well as the youngsters of a few other Anglo families living on the plateau.
School was not only reading, writing, and mathematics. Former students remember play practice and performing A Christmas Carol for the holidays. Amador Gonzales taught the students to cut wood and build birdhouses. There were arts and crafts projects, woodburning, and music class with rattles and tambourines. During the cold weather, physical education exercise would be held indoors and some students remember playing pin the tail on the donkey when it was too cold for outdoor recess!
Interestingly enough, most young people at that time don’t recall a great economic hardship happening in 1929. Life at the ranch school was stable and in some ways, idyllic. The school was self sufficient at that time, providing for itself, living off the land and the work of the residents and employees.
Though the ranch school wasn’t bursting at the seams, they had enough students paying $2400/yr for tuition to support the families working on the plateau and sending their children to the public school. Tuition at the school for one student for one year was actually double the yearly salary of most of the employees! And yet, if you think on it, the employees and public school kiddos were fed and housed and part of a community that WAS the Los Alamos Ranch School. It’s a very familiar sort of pattern for most of us who grew up here.
Growing up Los Alamos seems to be a unique experience no matter when it happens! I consider myself blessed to have been a part of this community and I absolutely love talking Los Alamos History and Housing with anyone who is willing to have a chat! So when you’re ready to be a part of our community on the Pajarito Plateau or you’re ready to sell your current Los Alamos property and find another, give me a call! I’d love to chat with you!
I believe that I’ve been aware to some degree of the Big House as part of the Ranch School’s history. For many folks who grow up here and often take a lot of the history stuff for granted, it’s easy to believe that somehow the Big House became Fuller Lodge. However, it may surprise some or most of you to discover that the Big House actually morphed into the Post Office. With some significant changes going on in between, of course!
When the Los Alamos Ranch School was moved out to allow the Manhattan Project to move in, the Big House was acquired along with the Master Cottages, Guest Cottage, outbuildings, Ashley Pond, livestock, farm equipment, and everything else needed to run a ranch or a ranch school, although not so much a scientific facility!
Because of the lack of space in the early years of the Manhattan Project, the Big House actually saw quite a lot of historic action. It was the only building with a space to hold scientific staff meetings. Robert Serber first briefed the early project members on the basics of nuclear weapons in the reading room of the Big House. At one point in a lecture, Serber used the word “bomb”. Only a moment later, a handwritten note from John Manley suggested a substitute word. From that time on, the device became known as the “gadget”.
Eventually, the Big House became housing for unmarried staff members and guests. Sleeping quarters were the main need at the time, so the Big House was modified and the bathtubs were removed. Bathrooms and beds were numbered. Lodgers at the Big House would be given a bed and bathroom assignment. These periodic guests read like the who’s who of science at the time. Otto Frisch, Johnny von Neumman, Richard Feynman, and Klaus Fuchs were some of the important minds to enjoy a stay at the Big House.
The ranch school’s beautiful common room dominated by the central fireplace became a popular hangout after working hours. The post chaplain had an office on the first floor and a matron headed up the whole operation. The ranch school’s library became the public lending library complete with books stamped U.S.E.D (This stood for United States Engineering Detachment which is quite hilarious if you think about it!). There was a pool table, a ping pong table, couches, chairs, and games.
The Big House continued to host visitors and guests to Los Alamos until it became certain that Los Alamos was going to be a permanent place. The Big House was only a short distance from Fuller Lodge, but it wasn’t in such great shape by the post war years. According to the AEC records at that time, the Big House was being slowly destroyed by termites and was a fire trap to anyone who stayed there. The residents of Los Alamos were opposed to the demolition of the old building.But in the end, a project to construct a modern “shopping center” in Los Alamos required the use of the land where the Big House sat.
In the spring of 1948, The Big House was razed in order to make way for Central Park Square. The former site of the tennis courts and athletic fields of the Ranch School became our Post Office, Small Business Center, and now what is essentially the location of our local nightlife.
I think it’s still a bit sad that the Big House had such a large part of our history and didn’t manage to hang on long enough to become part of our current downtown historic district. But, it’s certainly true that our Post Office and Central Park Square are a huge part of what we consider Downtown Los Alamos. And that wonderful Central Avenue district is where Trick or Treat Main Street and Los Alamos Halloweekend will be happening next month!
When you’re ready to talk about real estate in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’m a Los Alamos girl with a longtime interest in Los Alamos History and Housing. I’d love to talk to you about your home!
In Los Alamos, the phrase “life in the Big House” never referred to life in jail. The Big House was actually the first “school” building constructed by Ashley Pond. The idea was to create a dormitory with space for classrooms and pretty much everything else the students would need beyond the ranch outbuildings, cabins, and barns which had already existed on the Brooks’ Ranch.
At the time, Los Alamos’ “Big House” was essentially like a traditional Spanish jacal. Enormous logs were used and set up right in a vertical pattern instead of a horizontal one. The vertical logs were easier to place when you were creating a two story structure. Can you imagine how much power it would take to hoist one of those enormous Ponderosa Pines up to a second level? Back in 1916 on the Pajarito Plateau, there were easier ways to build structures and the locals knew it.
The original version of the Big House had two levels and 30 rooms, including a wide sleeping porch that accommodated all of the students and the masters too! In spite of it’s modest cost at $20,000, the Big House had a surprising amount of modern luxuries. There was a telephone line and indoor plumbing. Classrooms occupied most of the first floor, but the ground floor also boasted a common room, a kitchen, and a dining area.
In a strange twist, the second floor was entirely taken up with “private” accommodations for the boys. Each boy had his own space furnished with a place to study, relax, and personalize as he wanted. In fact, personalizing the spaces was such a focus on the “dormitories”, that awards were given out each month for the most interesting furnishings.
So, you could study, read, hang out, nap, or decorate your room. But… you were not permitted to sleep in it. In fact, if you look at the archive photo of the two boys in scout uniforms “studying” in their room, it looks very staged. Especially when you notice the bed looks incredibly uncomfortable!
The school kept growing so the Big House had to get bigger. Only two years after original construction began, AJ Connell had the Big House remodeled. The sleeping porch got some screens and became a bit more weather tight, (can you imagine how frigid it would’ve been before that addition?). And some space was added on the third floor via the addition of dormers on the sloped roof. One of the unmarried masters moved up to the third floor apartment, but he was still required to sleep on the porch.
The common room downstairs was where the evening’s entertainment was to be had. This common photo we see of the boys listening to Connell reading was taken in front of the fireplace in the common room. There was a pool table, ping-pong, a library of books, games to play, and even a record player in case you wanted to check out the latest tunes.
By 1935, Connell’s Ranch School brochure bragged that, “the Big House is thoroughly modern with steam heat, electric lights, and an ample number of showers and baths. The large living room on the first floor affords a comfortable place to study, read, or play. A massive stone chimney, with a fireplace on either side, rises in the center of the room. The younger three-quarters of the school, and two masters, live in this house. The boys’ rooms, used only for dressing and arranged for two boys each…Sleeping porches are used the entire year. They are actual sleeping porches, not just additional rooms, and give ample protection from the occasional storm…In this building are also three classrooms, a well-appointed dispensary, and the Director’s and faculty offices”.
By 1942, the Big House had sprawled into a structure fully capable of housing most of the school’s activities, students, and masters. Of course, the oldest boys occupied Spruce Cottage, which we’ll explore in another post. Some of the masters married, had family, and moved into Master Cottages. But for the most part, the Big House was the heart of the school. If you’re wondering where on earth this enormous building is today, we’ll talk about the Manhattan Project years next time!
I suppose if you take a peek at the dorm rooms pictured above, you can just about make a case that we should go back to that sort of housing arrangement for our summer students! Or, you can give me a call and talk housing in Los Alamos! I’m a hometown broker who loves to take a peek into real estate in Los Alamos. So when you’re ready to buy or sell your home in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to chat with you!
In the mid 1930s, AJ Connell released a brochure for the Los Alamos Ranch School entitled, “The Guest House”. In Connell’s mind, it was good for the parents of his ranch school boys to come and visit their children. It might be suggested, as is supported by the historical information, that AJ Connell wasn’t exactly comfortable being around the fairer sex.
Because most of the parents coming to visit were from the East Coast, they tended to stay for longer stretches of time. A week or even two wasn’t an unusual duration for a stay. Considering travel options available at the time, no wonder the families came to visit for longer than a weekend! Modern travelers complain about a two hour layover in an airport! And don’t even get me started on the crazed inconvenience of driving an hour or two by good road in a modern automobile to get to an airport!
Connell maintained that “a boys school” was too cold of a place for parents, especially mothers. So, with that in mind, he built a guest house. But… the guest house wasn’t the original intention of the building. Nope. It goes a bit further back than the 1930s.
School Nurse & Matron
It didn’t take long for AJ Connell and the all male staff at LARS realized they would benefit from having a woman around. (Ahem, isn’t that what USUALLY happens?) Keep in mind this was a good ten years before AJ brought his sister May up to the Pajarito Plateau to live in Master Cottage #2.
With boys engaging in far more than just classroom instruction and living incredibly far from home, it was soon necessary to hire a nurse and a matron. Sometime after 1918, Connell arranged for the construction of a rustic cabin for his school nurse and matron. Connell often suggested that he wouldn’t “coddle” a woman employee at his school. However, I do find it fascinating that instead of hiring a nurse AND a matron, he rolled it into one job and decided a single female on the property could do two jobs. Hmm.
With that in mind, the rustic cabin was a 20ft by 20ft log structure on a native stone foundation. The walls were unfinished pine slat siding and the roof had a pyramid like cap on it. It had a small porch on the east side supported by two sizable Ponderosa logs and had plenty of windows to let in light. The nurse/matron’s living quarters occupied the back room and the front of the building served as the infirmary. A single central wood stove kept the cold at bay in the cheery cottage.
Miss Genevieve Ranger moved into the infirmary likely sometime in 1922. I cannot even begin to imagine what that would’ve been like for one lone young woman to be responsible for a pack of men and boys. She was known to keep a dog with her for company.
The records seem to be a bit vague on the exact timing of this building’s construction as the infirmary is listed in some sources as dating to 1918. Mary Byers states in her Historical Society work that the cottage was completed in 1922, which is when it started showing up in ranch school photographs. Regardless, the building has been the longest regularly occupied and used structure in Los Alamos. Built (for sure) in 1922, it has remained in use from then until today and will likely remain in use for the foreseeable future as it now houses the Los Alamos History Museum!
In 1924, Miss Ranger experienced some health problems that caused her to leave her post at the ranch school. Connell somewhat reluctantly admitted the school would benefit from having a nurse AND a matron in residence as there were an awful lot of men and boys around. The infirmary was conveniently close to shops, farm buildings, and the Big House, but it was two small in its current configuration to support two females occupying it.
in the winter of 1925, Connell asked the ranch school carpenter, Pedro Gonzales to add two rooms onto the infirmary. A second entry provided a private entrance to a new apartment at the west side of the building. The pyramid style roof was upgraded to a standard, two pitched roof and the new improved infirmary was ready to go.
Well…at least for a few more years.
The Guest Cottage Years
When Fuller Lodge was completed in 1928, Connell moved the nurse and the matron onto the second floor. This provided an opportunity to develop the former infirmary into guest quarters for families wishing to visit their children at the ranch school.
Where Connell might not approve of “coddling” the school nurse or matron, he finally did acknowledge that the families he was hoping to entice into sending their boys to school probably needed more than a “rustic cabin” during their week long stays.
Pedro Gonzales was tasked once again with a ranch school remodel. I find this rather an interesting parallel to what so many of my local friends and clients have done with their Los Alamos homes. Apparently the local contractor having to go back six different times over the years to remodel the same house for a different tenant or even the same tenant has been going on since the 1920s!
Gonzales did beautiful work transforming the infirmary into a more traditional and attractive mountain style log cabin with horizontal beam sills and stone fireplaces in a very familiar pueblo style. Hardwood floors covered with bright Navajo rugs. The apartment on the east opened onto Miss Ranger’s sunny porch. The west facing apartment exited to an outdoor sitting area that included a lovely landscaped courtyard view.
Connell’s Guest Cottage was such a raging success that he had to add more apartments in 1935. As with many ranch school renovations or new builds in the 1930s, Connell called on John Gaw Meem to design the new addition in stone. Meem created a lovely set of one bedroom apartments, each with a private bath and shower!
Hot water was carried through iron pipes from Fuller Lodge. Interior walls were plastered. The furniture and artwork was locally sourced and the brochures claimed the largest apartment came with “a native corner fireplace”. The cost of a stay in the Ranch School Guest House was $6 per day. I cannot begin to imagine what it would’ve been like to take a vacation to the wild west at your son’s boarding school!
Project Y Years
During the Manhattan Project, the Army Corps of Engineers remodeled the Guest Cottage into private accommodations. The stone half of the structure became the Blue and Brown Rooms. General Leslie Groves had priority on the Blue Room whenever he was in town. Richard C Tolman, Groves’ scientific advisor, occupied the Brown Room during his stays. The rooms at that time included a bedroom and bathroom with an office. Each unit had its own bathtub, making the Guest Cottage a definite part of Bathtub Row.
The wooden half of the Guest Cottage was remodeled into a single apartment with a combination bedroom and living area, bathroom, and also a small kitchen. Ernest and Peggy Titterton, part of the British Mission, occupied this “East Room” during their tenure in Los Alamos. Having come from war ravaged Britain, the Tittertons very much enjoyed being part of a thriving and safe small town atop a high desert plateau.
Mr. Titterton was an accomplished pianist who was often found at Fuller Lodge playing to a crowd. Ernest not only covered the classics, he was also good for jazz and popular tunes. Ernest and Peggy loved Friday night dinners at the Lodge when thick steaks were on the menu for a single dollar. It seems only fair that Ernest Titterton enjoyed his stay in Los Alamos as he was the individual responsible for the historic task of triggering the world’s first atomic explosion at Trinity.
The Hotel Years
After the war, the AEC once again remodeled the Guest Cottage about the time Fuller Lodge became a “modern” hotel. I think many of us forget that was a thing! The hotel served the needs of the fledgling Scientific Laboratory, which meant the Guest Cottage wasn’t needed to house visitors anymore.
The original structure of the infirmary on the east side of the building was converted into a two bedroom apartment with a small living room and even a carport on the back! The space was occupied by the Ralph Carlisle Smith, Assistant Director of the Laboratory who remained from 1946 until 1952. Smith was a military document expert who was a blatant history nerd and adored living in the oldest structure in Los Alamos.
When Smith left Los Alamos, the Fuller Lodge Hotel manager and his wife moved in. Robert and Mary Martin enjoyed life in the Guest Cottage. Mary felt certain that some of the hand carved chests and rustic bedroom furniture had been made by the ranch school boys in the Arts and Crafts Building. The Martins occupied the building until the AEC began to dispose of their housing and structures in Los Alamos and the Lodge closed as a hotel.
The Museum Years
Through hard work on the part of local residents, history buffs, and lovers of all things Los Alamos, the AEC dispersal included turning over Fuller Lodge and eventually the Guest Cottage to Los Alamos County in order to be used as a community center of sorts. Not long after, on July 23, 1968 the Los Alamos Historical Society signed a contract with the county to lease the Guest Cottage for the purpose of a history museum. On July 28, 1968, the Los Alamos History Museum opened to the public.
The Guest Cottage’s transformation from empty and worn out apartment of many configurations to museum was an incredible labor of love. The procedure pictured below of raising the building in order to create a new foundation is similar to the necessary work that needs to happen to the Oppenheimer House. Techniques have changed since July of 1968, but the costs have become exponential! To learn more about that effort, click HERE.
The museum is still in operation today! If you haven’t had the opportunity to visit and tour the interesting items on display then please do! I’m so grateful to the Historical Society for their help in putting these posts together and to the archive for their photo galleries. I’m not a historian, I’m a real estate broker. But I love this town and I find the history of our community absolutely fascinating! So when you’re looking for someone to geek out over how cool your house in Los Alamos is, give me a call! I’d love to talk buying and selling Los Alamos Real Estate with you!
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