Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Month: March 2024

Can’t Ranch Without Horses

There are so many images that pop into the mind when you think about Los Alamos in the Ranch School days. I’m always reminded of the popular photo of the boys skating and playing hockey on Ashley Pond in their shorts. Then there are photos of boys gathered around the fire. Photos of classes with the school masters. And, of course, in our last blog we talked about the Pond and Connell method of advertising the ranch school using beautiful photos of the boys set against the dramatic backdrop of the Jemez Mountains.

I think when we’re looking at these photos its really important to consider one thing. How difficult is it to learn to navigate a pack train like the one in the photo? The answer is: pretty darned difficult!

Horses were a huge part of ranch school life. I sometimes chuckle to myself that I know a lot of young ladies here in town who would have loved ranch school life just because of the horses. Yet they would’ve been down at the Brownmoor School in Santa Fe because the Los Alamos Ranch School didn’t take girls.

We’ve talked a lot about the healthy promises made by the Ranch School to the families of their students. Promises about the clear mountain air, clean living, activities, and outdoor pursuits guaranteed to make men out of any boy. But even if potential students enjoyed good health, many of their parents sent them here to Los Alamos to be toughened up. And the horse centric school curriculum was a big part of that toughening up!

Every boy was assigned a horse when they got to school. Once they’d hit the trading post for the school supplies and gear, they were taken to the barn. Mack Wallace, a student at the Ranch School in the 1930s shared his memory of that event with John D Wirth and Linda Harvey Aldrich in their book about the Ranch School years.

[There were about thirty horses] “gathered in the corral when we approached it. We were first ushered into the tack room within the big white barn, and our saddles and brides were pointed out. Back in the corral, on the first day, a young man haltered a horse and watched while I painstakingly put on the bridle, then placed the saddle blanket and saddle on his back and fastened the girth. I was wise enough to note that my mount had ballooned his belly and with a great heave on the girth I countered the measure. As we rode back to the “Big House” horse and rider became acquainted. His name was Nogales, and he was magnificent. This was an animal that I came to love and trust, and I think maybe he reciprocated in his way.”

It might seem almost shocking to hear that it was estimated every boy who attended the ranch school had at least ridden a horse once or twice before. Some had been frequent riders. But at this time, horses were still a large part of life, even in the city. Not that many of the students had ever learned to balance a load on a pack horse, tie a Los Alamos Diamond Hitch Knot, and figure out how to avoid saddle sores for the rider and the horse while spending days camping on the trail.

Horse shows and horse racing were considered an important part of the social season. In fact, the National Horse Show began in 1883 in New York City at Madison Square Gardens before moving to the Horse Park in Lexington KY in 2011. Other huge horse shows such as the Pennsylvania National Horse Show and the Washington National Horse Show soon became popular. The enormous amount of publicity eventually became part of a Disney movie plot in 1968 when “The Horse in the Gray Flannel Suit” gave little girls everywhere stars in their eyes for the big gray gelding Aspercel jumping in the Washington International Horse Show.

Elizabeth Taylor was a well known and frequent attendee of the big horse shows and was often photographed on the opening night. In 2006 there was a popular Animal Planet show called, Horse Power: Road to the Maclay. But many people don’t realize that the ASPCA Maclay is an equitation class started in 1933 at the National Horse Show by Alfred Maclay. The purpose was to award the top performing young riders in America. The Maclay is still going strong today and is a big deal if you’re an equestrian in the hunter jumper world.

Horse racing carried a similar high society stamp of approval, hence the still current trend of ladies in enormous and elaborate hats at the Kentucky Derby! Believe it or not, but the entire country used to follow horse racing. The racing exploits of horses like Man-o-War, Secretariat, Ruffian, and Seabiscuit were a big deal for everyone back then.

But you’re not going to herd cattle or put a pack string together for an overnight camping trip with a show hunter. You need a great all around working horse for that! And those working horses in Los Alamos had to do a little bit of everything. Boys were taught to ranch ride, but they were also encouraged to ride well in any kind of saddle, or “the eastern style” as it was called back then. Opportunities abounded for students to play polo, jump, learn to drive the wagon team, and hunt from horseback.

In the remaining lists of Los Alamos Ranch School Horses in 1942, you can find the horse Mack Wallace was talking about, Nogales, or “Nogal” as he was officially listed. In 1942 he was 14. Which probably means he came to the ranch as a 6 or 7 year old and likely spent quite a lot of time with Mack in the later part of the 1930s. The oldest horse on the list from 1942 was 23 years old. Most were saddle horses, but there were several work horses for the wagons and other ranch activities as well.

The average age of a ranch horse was in the mid to late teens. Truthfully, back in those days, having working horses at 20-23 years old meant they were taking great care of these critters. What I know from my own daughter’s interest in riding is that a teenaged or even twenty something horse is a wonderful teacher. It seems likely that’s exactly what these horses were doing for the boys!

Some of the boys referred to the horses as “ego-wounders”, but all agreed that these horses gave the students an opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of themselves, to learn patience and self-control and respect for living things who have thoughts, feelings, and personalities all their own.

Several of the young men were quite good in the saddle, an English saddle that is. Several of them had come from ranching families and knew their way around a western saddle and even cattle. But one thing most of those boys agreed upon was that they’d never had to care for and manage their own horses the way they did those at the ranch. Pampered scions of well to do families rarely did barn chores in those days. They would have had several grooms or ranch hands for that sort of thing. At school, the boys were the grooms and ranch hands.

A saddle maker in Silver City created the distinctive high cantle saddles the boys used at the Ranch School. Each boy was responsible for keeping their equipment in top condition and repair. They groomed their horses, oversaw their general care, and were responsible for keeping them healthy on the trail. It was a daily list of tasks that each boy grew to enjoy. Considering the love that each master and the headmasters had for horses, ranching, and western culture, it’s no wonder the boys enjoyed this new life at the Ranch School on the Pajarito Plateau.

Horses are still a big part of life in Los Alamos. We love to hit the Posse Shack for a Cowboy Breakfast the first Sunday of each month and head out to walk the stables for a visit. The Fair and Rodeo Parade and events take place in August with several days of rodeo fun and there are plenty of County sponsored horse exhibitions and fun days. We have a thriving Pony Club for those who’d like to join a club for kids who want to learn about horse care and management. Or you can take a few lessons and learn exactly how the boys were taught patience, tenacity, and self-awareness by a four legged master.

Ranching and outdoor pursuits are still important on the Pajarito Plateau today. We might not be riding our horses to work, (which would increase commute times but seriously decrease driving and traffic issues!), but we can still enjoy the amazing beauty of this small town on a big plateau. And if you’ve got a house in Los Alamos you’d like to discuss, give me a call. I’m your hometown real estate broker! I’d love to chat Los Alamos real estate with you!

Advertising Los Alamos

Advertising is both simple and complicated these days. Sure. Almost anyone can do some basic graphic design and slap an ad on social media. Making a 3 minute video is easily accomplished on your phone. But trying to actually get the word out to a specific market when folks are being flooded with so much information every second of the day takes thought.

How much more thought would it have taken to advertise an exclusive boarding school for boys? Then add in the fact that the Los Alamos Ranch School was in the middle of nowhere. We are still in the middle of nowhere. But life before Google Maps, satellite imagery, and in an age when newsprint ads had to be physically sent to a printing office would have made things even more difficult!

So how did the Los Alamos Ranch School get the word out? Brochures. Lots and lots of brochures. While some of these have survived time and are preserved deep inside the Los Alamos History Museum Archives, Ashley Pond Junior’s first brochure in 1917 carried the title, “An Outdoor School for Boys”. And that is how they sold the school.

There was no doubt that attendance was a major concern of the ranch school. The program was certainly worth the pricey tuition. In 1935, Los Alamos was the first western boarding school to have an examiner on the College Board. Art Chase was the first to serve on the English Board, followed by Harry Walen. In 1926 and again in 1936, a graduate of the Los Alamos Ranch School was ranked #1 in the freshman class at Princeton.

Anecdotal tales from graduates of the ranch school recall the individualized educational opportunities. “Virgil in the Wilderness” when students trekked into the mountains to learn Latin or read poetry. When they were encouraged to expand their minds while using their hands. Laboratory equipment was in short supply, but the Los Alamos Ranch School Masters were young, intelligent, and always finding ways to demonstrate concepts in the real world with equipment handy around the ranch.

School Masters were recruited from the best graduating college classes around the country. Men like Lawrence Hitchcock and Art Chase set a precedent for Masters to continue studies in their field. They would leave the ranch school for a semester or two, or perhaps a shorter time, and do advanced work in their field. Then they would return and share what they’d learned with the students. It was a varied curriculum, and yet the very way this was set up advertised the Los Alamos Ranch School from coast to coast. Our graduates were showing up in college lecture halls with robust health, great minds, and a desire to learn and put that education into practice. It made for the best kind of advertising!

And the rest of the advertising was done via photographs. Photos in magazines Large photo spreads in newspapers and brochures. Photos of the ranch students were sold and used as postcards and holiday greeting cards. And why not? This is still happening today! How many times do you travel up or down our Main Hill Road and see folks in the pullouts taking pictures with whatever device they can lay hands on?

Most of the photos used to advertise the school featured the boys outdoors in dramatic scenery. Most were student photos or those taken by the Masters while out on patrols or camping. All are absolutely stunning.

So next time somebody wants to know what’s so great about Los Alamos, just whip out your phone and take a picture for them. Our dramatic scenery, amazing history, and long standing tradition of outdoor pursuits makes this a special place to live. I feel lucky to be a part of this community and when you’re ready to join me, give me a call. I’m your hometown real estate broker and I’d love to talk Los Alamos real estate with you!

Ashley Pond, New Mexico & the Pajarito Plateau

Ashley Pond is something most of us take for granted. It’s a place we gather. It’s a huge part of our community and it’s the central focus of quite a lot of life in Los Alamos. Sometimes we just call it “the Pond”. Truthfully, were it not for Ashley Pond the person, (Ashley Pond Junior of course!) we wouldn’t be living here on the Pajarito Plateau enjoying a not necessarily unusual snow day in March.

I’ve been digging into Los Alamos history a lot lately because we all seem fascinated with it and I find myself intrigued about exactly how our wonderful town seems to exist when it would be almost impossible to simply stumble upon this area on accident. This has led me to some rather interesting parallels between Ashley Pond and Los Alamos and the Pajarito Plateau as a whole.

Ashley Pond Junior was the only surviving son of Ashley and Harriet Pond. That’s not all that unusual for the time period. Children’s health was a national and global concern at that time. Ashley Junior had health issues from the beginning, but his parents were determined to throw their considerable resources at his health issues to give him the best chance to be their surviving child.

Ashley Senior was a lawyer. When Ashley Junior was born in 1872, his father was a director of the Michigan Central Railroad. He was also the chief midwestern counsel (lawyer) for Cornelius Vanderbilt. Ashley Senior was said to be stoic, businesslike, and totally lawyer like in personality. His surviving child was the polar opposite. He was honest, eager, gregarious, and often became the target of unscrupulous business schemes because he had a core belief in the inherent honor and fair play of others. His personal philosophy was that everything in life could be boiled down to two things. Right or wrong. This was a philosophy he brought with him to New Mexico and the Los Alamos Ranch School.

The fact that Ashley Pond Junior was the polar opposite of his stoic, lawyer like father is only one reason why the journey he made through his life is so very parallel to the one that Los Alamos itself has made.

Ashley Junior’s first experience in New Mexico happened around 1899 or 1900. In 1898 he joined up with Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders and had hopes of going to Cuba to see action. Instead he wound up taking care of the horses in Tampa, FL because he became deathly ill with typhoid fever and was considered too sickly for active duty. His father sent him to a ranch near Catskill, NM. Catskill is now on the register of historic places in NM.

The only thing remaining of the original town in Colfax County are 25 brick structures shaped like beehives. These charcoal ovens are the only remainder of an enormous charcoal manufacturing operation. Charcoal had to manufactured in large quantities for metal smelting operations going on across the nation. There were 9 lumber camps in and around the Catskill area and the pine was cut down to fit inside the ovens as part of the charcoal manufacturing process. I can only imagine how the wild terrain, enormous lumber operation, ranching, and the connection to steel mills back east affected Ashley Pond Junior.

It didn’t take Pond very long to embrace life in New Mexico to the fullest. 30 year old Ashley Pond Junior fell in love with the 17 year old daughter of a Watrous rancher named Hazel Hallett. The couple married in 1903 and Peggy Pond was born right away. She was the eldest of three Pond children and the most well known here in Los Alamos because of her enormous contribution of photographs, books, information, and other history of our area.

The Pond family didn’t last long in Watrous. Ashley Junior was all set to start a school on ranch land he’d purchased in the area, but a flood on the Mora River wiped him out. This brief setback caused him to return to Detroit where he accepted a position as a vice president for Pontiac.

It’s hard to reconcile the idea of our Ashley Pond running a company like Pontiac. Marriage to Ashley Junior was difficult. Hazel often took the kids and went to live with her family as Ashley tried one venture or another. Most of his dreams collapsed and almost all of them involved New Mexico.

He ran a farm in Roswell, NM, which sounds a bit ambitious if you’ve spent much time down there in the wind, sun and sand. The family lived in a metal building which Hazel tried to spruce up with family antiques and imported rugs.

Meanwhile, Los Alamos wasn’t in much better shape. The Ramon Vigil Land Grant encompassed 32 thousand acres of grass and wooded land on the Pajarito Plateau. This land grant itself has come under scrutiny multiple times, (this eventually affected the building of Pajarito Acres too!) the grant had been purchased by midwestern based investors in the 1880s who essentially stripped the land of its resources through lumbering and overgrazing cattle. In 1900 Harry Buckman logged the same land for his lumber company, establishing the town of Buckman in White Rock Canyon as a shipping point. By 1903 the landscape was mostly tree stumps. Homesteaders had been on the Pajarito Plateau for decades by then but Harold H Brook and several investors purchased the land grant but never got around to doing much with it before going broke and dumping the land on a Santa Fe bank.

This is when Ashley Pond Junior and the Pajarito Club came on scene. (more about that HERE) Ashley Junior was determined to make the Pajarito Plateau his haven in New Mexico and he did everything possible to make that happen. It’s so incredible how similar the journeys of the land and the man seem to be. Ashley Junior’s Los Alamos Ranch School grew and thrived for twenty-five years. Compared to the others who owned or worked the land before he came on scene, that was an enormous amount of time.

Ashley Junior’s determination, passion, and dreams were the thing that caused Los Alamos to bloom. Historians have credited his willingness to think outside the box, his ability to charm those around him with his genuine enthusiasm and honor code, and his networking capabilities as the reason behind the school’s success. He integrated himself and the Los Alamos Ranch School in the community of the Pajarito Plateau. Homestead families were a huge part of the ranch school’s day to day running. The families in the Espanola Valley were part of that community as well and in return they became invested in the future of Los Alamos as well. As they still are today.

I think it’s really important to remember that Ashley Pond and his right hand man AJ Connell didn’t close the Los Alamos Ranch School because it failed or because it had run its course. The Parker Schools, Ashley Junior’s inspiration for the Los Alamos Ranch School, are still in operation today. It’s entirely reasonable to think that had Robert J Oppenheimer not been just as obsessed with New Mexico as Ashley Pond Junior, he never would’ve picked the ranch school as his Manhattan Project site. Had Oppenheimer not picked Los Alamos, the ranch school might very well still be in operation. How is THAT for an alternate timeline plot?

In short, what this means is that the longest standing traditions and purpose in Los Alamos are health and learning! No wonder we’re a top contender for the healthiest place to live in America. It’s just who we are! And when you’re ready to join our community, give me a call! I’m a hometown Los Alamos girl and I’d love to talk Los Alamos housing with you.

The Pajarito Club

There’s no doubt that the name “Los Alamos” conjures up visions of mushroom clouds, atomic bombs, and science (always science!). But if that’s where you start, you’re missing so much!

Before the labs, before the ranch school, there was the Pajarito Club. The club got it’s somewhat official start in 1914 when Ashley Pond and his business partners took an option to purchase the 32,000 acre Ramon Vigil Land Grant from a Santa Fe Bank.

The bank had acquired the land after several previous owners had more or less lost interest in it. “Lost interest” is a simple way of saying that the plateau land had been purchased by midwestern investors in the 1880s and had since hosted cattle and timber operations (including the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad) until it the final business, the Ramon Land and Lumber Company failed and left the land in the possession of the bank.

Ashley Pond approached his lifelong friends, Henry Joy and Roy Chapin about purchasing the land. Joy and Chapin brought in Paul and David Gray and created the Pajarito Land Corporation. The business then purchased the Ramon Vigil Land grant for $80,000. In the initial purchase, Pond was only able to chip in $8000. This lack of capital on his part would give his vote less value with his partners and later played a big role in the short lifespan of the Pajarito Club.

During their respective childhoods, the young men involved in this venture had spent a good amount of time the Huron Mountain Club in Michigan (the club still exists today). The club had provided outdoor activities like hunting and fishing as well as land for its members to have a cabin with all of the modern amenities. These were wealthy families enjoying a refreshing weekend in the country. You might imagine that life on the Pajarito Plateau was not what these folks expected.

Pond was the on site manager of the Pajarito Club. He settled his camp in some buildings leftover from the lumber company days. The idea was to have a clubhouse and a few cabins for guests to enjoy. Architect IH Rapp was hired to design the structures. He was well known for his work on the territorial mansion and the New Mexico Military Institute. The clubhouse Rapp created for the Pajarito Club had much in common with the work he did for the St Vincent’s Sanatorium in Santa Fe.

Things were difficult from nearly the beginning. Chapin and Joy were only able to come to the club two or three times during its existence and the Grays didn’t visit at all. This meant they had very little understanding of the difficulties Pond was experiencing in maintaining a hobby ranch in the middle of nowhere. In the beginning they were hauling water by hand from a nearby creek!

The only improvements the partners were willing to agree to without argument addressed the water accessibility issues. When Pond wanted to purchase 200 head of cattle, build barns to store grain, and plant crops, the partners felt he was being extravagant. They didn’t seem to understand that without cultivating these resources on Club land, there would be no food to eat!

In the end, the threat of war caused Ashley Pond’s partners back east to lose interest in the Pajarito Club venture. The club was only active for a period of two years. But the result was critical to the development of the hometown we know and love today. If Ashley Pond had not been the managing partner of the Pajarito Club, he wouldn’t have met Clara and Templeton Johnson, nor would he have met H H Brook of the Los Alamos Ranch. Both Brook and the Johnsons became instrumental in the realization of Pond’s dream of a ranch school. Had things not happened in the way that they did, it’s likely that the Manhattan Project would not have landed here on the Pajarito Plateau.

So next time you’re cruising past Ashley Pond, remember that the man who inspired the name is also the man who’s intense love for this region and his dogged determination made our lives here possible! As always, thanks to the Los Alamos Historical Museum Archives and the Peggy Pond Church Collection for photos and information, as well as John D Wirth and Linda Harvey Aldrich for their book about the Los Alamos Ranch School, available for purchase through the Historical Society. And when you’re ready to purchase your own piece of the Pajarito Plateau, give me a call! I’d love to chat Los Alamos real estate with you!