Take A Peek At Los Alamos, New Mexico

Month: August 2022

Musical Houses in Los Alamos

If you’re looking at the title of this post and thinking of pleasant sounding chamber music on your home stereo system, think again. When I say Musical Houses in Los Alamos, it’s more comparable to the children’s party game involving chairs and fast paced music.

How many times have you moved from one home to another in your lifetime? Once? Twice? Twenty times? More? According to relocation expert Joshua Green, Americans move an average of once every 5 years. Green also points out that statistics suggest most people move within their own county or town.

Truthfully, Americans have always been rather mobile. Isn’t that why the United States became a thing in the 1600s? Perhaps we should all just be glad we’re no longer having to move via three masted sailing vessels or covered wagons. Considering how “easy” it is to move these days, it’s not a surprise that so many folks decide they want a change of scenery.

What if I told you that residents of Los Alamos in the 1950s were almost certain to move to a “new” house every spring? Why spring? Because every year on February 2, the Housing Policy Board recalculated the number of “points” accrued by each employee. More points meant a “better” house. Some residents called this process “musical houses”. If you’ve ever lived on a military installation, you’re probably familiar with the idea. But if you’ve ever wondered why Los Alamos has such a difficult time with housing and how it worked “back in the day”, then let me back up and explain a few things.

In an earlier post about how “rent” used to be calculated in Los Alamos, I spoke about what one early resident called the “curious experiment in socialism”. During wartime, rents were based on salary and not on the type of quarters you might be occupying. Interestingly enough, there wasn’t nearly as much drama associated with that situation as with what happened beginning in 1947 when the “point system” went into effect.

How many points would your family have?

The Housing Policy Board was created to meet and oversee the distribution of what was then, and will likely always be, very limited housing resources. The board was made up of members from three entities: the Laboratory (LASL), Zia Company, and the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC). Each of these three entities had employees requiring housing. Each entity was eventually given an “allotment” of houses. Prior to the completion of Groups 11-15, it was a bit less organized. Each employee had points, but any houses coming available during the year were also allotted based on what entity needed to hire what employee. By the time construction had been completed on Group 15, each entity had a set number of dwellings to work with. This literally meant that they could only employ as many people as they could house. Stop for a moment and consider the implications of that. It’s a very different concept from the one we’re used to today.

At that time, if you weren’t directly employed by those three entities, you did not live in “town”. In a previous post, we talked about the Zia Company. LASL itself was science staff and some administrative or technical workers. The AEC was a bit more complex. They sponsored living quarters for school, church and hospital staff, people who staffed businesses in town (remember they were all managed by the Zia Company back then), and anyone else who might not fall into a typical category.

A 2 bedroom Denver Steel would have cost you $35/month to rent in 1955. You would’ve had to have been a married couple with at least one child to have enough points for one of these!

Residents applied for their housing points when they were hired to their jobs. Points were given for two things: 1 point per dollar of salary earned and 2 points per month of tenure that you had. The number of points was established when you were hired and recalculated each February 2. The rest of your housing desires were determined by which “list” you were on. Those lists were where you could make requests because of family size or any medical needs such as handicap needs or a desire for first floor housing. A resident could be on any list they qualified for. Newer housing, a particular area you wanted to live in, anything you might desire. Each time a new house came available on one of those lists, the employee with the highest number of points on that list got first dibs. If they didn’t want to move, the second highest number of points got a chance and so on down the line.

If there were dual income households, could you combine your points?

Not really. You just got more spots on the lists. Like buying more raffle tickets. If one spouse worked for LASL and another worked for Zia, they each had a point value. Zia and LASL both had their own housing lists because each entity had their own housing allotment. So if you were waiting for a two bedroom unit, you’d get the opportunity to be on both the Zia and LASL list for the house you wanted. But you couldn’t combine your points to try and bump your spot higher on the list.

The point system was meant to make things as “fair” as possible. But the reality was that it created some rather bizarre situations. Such as what would happen when someone retired. Housing Policy Board records suggest that retirees were encouraged to move out of Los Alamos “soon”. Let’s just say that there were no returning employees on “visiting scientist” status back then. Either you were in, or you were out.

You didn’t retire and stay in Los Alamos in the 1950s. Someone else needed your housing!

And if one spouse retired and the other stayed on, your family might have to move into a different unit. If one partner worked for LASL and the other for Zia and your family was living in a Zia allotment housing unit, you wouldn’t be able to stay there once the Zia employee retired. You’d have to move into a LASL allotted housing unit. Unless, of course, you could get the employers to do a “swap”. Occasionally this would happen. But there were several notorious cases where it did not. The most notorious case on record was a widow with five children. Her husband, a Zia Company employee, was killed in a work related accident. She was employed by the Los Alamos County Commission. She made a request to her employer that she and her children be allowed to remain in their “premium” house in Western Area. Her request was denied after the Housing Policy Board determined it would be unfair to make even one exception to the rules. It sounds rather heartless, but that was literally how they kept the balance back in the day.

Most residents rather enjoyed the regular moves. More than a few residents were hired around the same time, married in the same general year, and subsequently had their kids around the same time as well. There are documented situations where families moved apartment buildings or neighborhoods together four to six times. Regular “musical houses” kept things fresh even if you didn’t get exactly what you wanted right then. After all, you’d earn more “points” and hope for a better allotted unit the following year. You made new friends, kept old ones, and all lived in the same town anyway. It isn’t unlike most communities today. Just because you move out of the “neighborhood” doesn’t mean you lose the friends you made there. It’s just an opportunity to meet new people to add to your group!

In the 1950s, playing musical houses kept Los Alamos feeling like one big neighborhood. But there are lots of reasons why life in Los Alamos is unique. And when you’re ready to be part of our small town unique, give me a call! I’d love to chat real estate with you.

The Craze of Sunken Living Rooms

When modern American consumers think about a home, their minds often drift to housing developments like Mirador in White Rock. These enormous subdivisions dominate cities throughout the United States. As you descend in an airplane in a city like Dallas, TX, you might see a patchwork of homes that all share roughly the same dimensions, a limited variety of exterior designs or colors, and perhaps even identical backyards with kidney shaped swimming pools or brilliant green lawns.

In cities like Albuquerque, newer areas like Rio Rancho have seen a similar pattern of growth. These properties might have buff colored rock in the yard and desert flavored landscaping, but the basic neighborhood outlines are the same. The homes are nearly identical. Builders generally have three or four models to choose from and from there, you get some fairly limited options when it comes to exterior and interior features. Even if you splurge on “custom features”, you’re probably not going to be able to tell that your home has custom anything without a close inspection.

Here in Los Alamos, we don’t have acres upon acres of homes in the typical “cookie cutter” design you might see elsewhere. There are neighborhoods like Broadview, Loma Linda, Hawk’s Landing, Quemazon, and now Mirador that might seem at first glance to be quite similar to the subdivided neighborhoods found in other areas. Then of course, there’s Western Area. Or perhaps you might consider the “Group” housing scattered across town to be subdivisions of a sort. But one of the best things about Los Alamos is that our neighborhoods have very distinct histories.

Long time residents might see “Group” housing as average looking homes while those who didn’t grow up with this style of home might think them odd. One of the things that has always made housing in Los Alamos unique is that even in homes that probably looked rather identical when built, years and years of creativity, ingenuity, and rehabbing or renovating has turned “same” into decidedly “not same”! Having had a peek at a lot of homes in Los Alamos, I can assure you that the results are pretty darned awesome.

Regardless of what you think of tract housing and modern subdivisions, there’s no doubt that Los Alamos has most certainly not followed housing trends seen in other regions. In fact, throughout Los Alamos’s housing history , great pains have been taken at every step to avoid the tract housing flavor. Hence my title reference to Sunken Living Rooms. If you were part of the Los Alamos community in the late 1940s, you would have been dying to get a Sunken Living Room. It was a rather unusual feature after all.

Sunken living rooms were popular in the 60’s & 70’s and are actually making a comeback!

In the late 1940s and early 1950s, housing was the constant social topic in Los Alamos. Norris Bradbury was very concerned about living situations for his workers at the Laboratory and there was no doubt that things were tight. The laboratory’s technical facilities were in the process of moving from the Ashley Pond site to their current(ish) location on the South Mesa. When that happened, residents were thrilled at the announcement of a housing expansion. W.C. Kruger & Associates of Santa Fe started planning in late 1947 and by 1949 the units were going up. The projected population was 13,000. Kruger was informed that there were to be 628 new units built at the rate of 80 units per month. Even by modern standards that is a ridiculous pace! But even at that rate, I don’t suppose I need to tell you that any possible housing surplus wasn’t going to last long.

It might have been nice for the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC) to come up with a clever name for this new neighborhood. But that really wouldn’t have been in line with Los Alamos tradition. So, in keeping with the last housing development of “Western Area”, “North Community” was born.

Group 11 was considered the most ambitious housing project in Los Alamos housing history!

The first “group” to be planned and built was Group 11. We’ve talked about how the groupings came to be called that in a post quite some time back. But for those of you who don’t know or don’t recall, Groups were established because of when a group of housing was built. All of Group 11 were planned and built in the same general timeframe. The fact that they were built in three areas of town just made it more confusing later on. The question of why there is no Group 1 thru 10 has been pondered by more than one person. Craig Martin suggests in his field guide to Los Alamos Housing that this is because there were ten different housing “groups” in Los Alamos prior to the first officially named Group 11. Let’s be honest. Shall we go ahead and be thankful that not all of 1-10 survived to now? I cannot imagine taking potential buyers into a Wingfoot or a Hanford House!

Group 11 was built in three areas. First on Pueblo Mesa in the vicinity of Orange and Nickel Streets. Second around 40th-48th Streets around Urban Park (then known as Slotin Field). Lastly across School Canyon on 35th through 38th Streets and Villa.

A few interesting facts about Group 11

  • Buildings were cocked at odd angles to the street to prevent the “feel” of prefabricated housing. The AEC actually told the contractor that if the homes were going to be prefab, they shouldn’t “look” like it.
  • While Los Alamos residents were clamoring for single family homes, only 142 single family homes were built in Group 11 because “Congress dictated that a low ratio of single-to multiple family units be maintained (Martin, 2015)”.
  • Previous issues with building Western Area caused the AEC to specify that roofs in Group 11 housing be pitched at one half inch to the foot. They also required the bathtubs to be anchored to the walls. It’s kind of funny to imagine what incidents lay behind these requirements.
  • On May 31, 1949 families who had lived in Los Alamos since 1945 could apply for the new houses. Open sign up for housing requests opened up on April 1, 1949.
  • Group 11 included five housing styles. Each unit had solid oak flooring, which still exists in most remaining homes today and is a huge bonus for modern homebuyers! Units had lots of windows, but the kitchens had metal cabinets that tended to invite condensation. Many residents described the cabinetry as “frosty” and “stewy”.
  • There were 13 two bedroom duplexes – 26 units – that had “Sunken Living Rooms”. These quickly became the most sought after homes in Los Alamos thanks to this “unique” feature!

What is a “sunken living room”? When entering the front door of these Group 11 duplexes, you had to take three steps down into the living room from the small entryway. The kitchen was also below grade level. The 2 bedrooms and single bath located in the front of the unit were at ground level. Bathrooms included a shower and a tub, which at that time was something of a luxury. For whatever reason, the “sunken living room” homes became the most sought after housing option in Los Alamos. Perhaps just having something different is enough to make a resident feel proud to call a house a home. This is something I find is still true today.

The Group 11 Sunken Living Room Duplex

In total there were 351 buildings in Group 11. This created 584 units of housing. The original project was to include 628 units, but budget issues caused a cutback in the number of buildings. That’s something to keep in mind when you’re considering the purchase of a home whether it is new or existing. The cost of building a home has always been an unpredictable thing. And when you’re trying to build a neighborhood, it’s even more difficult to manage.

Whether you like the “sameness” of modern era subdivision housing or you long for a custom home, think back to the post war explosion of homebuilding. This was the age of Lustrons and other innovative prefab home solutions. Everyone wanted a house and they wanted it fast! In fact, it’s not unlike the factors driving the current home market here in the United States right now. Sometimes the little things, like a “sunken living room” make a house you might not have considered before become the home of your dreams! And if you’re ready to buy or sell your dream home in Los Alamos, give me a call! I’d love to talk real estate with you.

The “Company” Town of Los Alamos

There are a lot of little ironies about life in Los Alamos. One of my personal favorites is that the anniversary of Los Alamos becoming a “real town” happens to be on April 1. Last year, in 2021, we celebrated a 75 yr anniversary. On April 1, 1946 the powers that be decided Los Alamos would become a permanent research facility. The almost outrageous plan to house a “few dozen scientists” at the old ranch school on the Pajarito Plateau had come full circle. But the reality of operating a permanent townsite was much different from the tasks associated with operating a scientific laboratory. Nowadays our minds immediately turn to our county sponsored services. But creating that sort of administrative infrastructure takes time. Keep in mind that there weren’t even private homeowners here in Los Alamos in 1946. So in order to keep things running smoothly, general contractor C.D. McKee, whom you might remember from my post on McKeeville and other early housing solutions in Los Alamos, incorporated The Zia Company.

According to Zia Company records, by July 1, 1950, Los Alamos had approximately 2,800 houses and apartments on four mesas. It had 1,225 dormitory rooms, and 160 trailer spaces in its Trailer Park. At that time, any temporary housing was scheduled for eventual removal and plans for new housing had reached the vicinity of North Community. Any housing plans beyond North Community centered on replacement of wartime era prefabricated structures.

All of the current housing in Los Alamos. Any future building plans. Maintenance and management of existing structures. Public services. The Zia Company was responsible for it all.

An Excerpt from “The Tenant’s Handbook” Courtesy of the Los Alamos Historical Society Archives:

Responsibilities of AEC
Under the particular circumstances existing at Los Alamos, the Atomic Energy Commission has a responsibility to provide adequate housing for employees and their families.
Adequate housing means a sufficient number of trailer spaces, dormitory rooms, apartments and houses for our single employees and for our married employees and their families. It means also a variety of choice within each type of housing to try to match the desires and the income of individuals. It means essential home equipment and surroundings suited to a comfortable standard of living.

It might sound simple to say that The Zia Company oversaw operations in Los Alamos from 1946 until the early 1960s. The Zia Company further oversaw a good deal of laboratory operations until mid 1986 when the contract was taken over by Johnson Controls World Services. But nowadays, most modern residents of Los Alamos have no clue just how much The Zia Company actually did back when our tiny town was still shrouded in a great deal of mystery and necessary secrecy.

An Excerpt From The Zia Company’s Organization Chart:

Within the Divisions and Departments are listed:

  • Fiscal Division: Accounting Sub-Division, IBM Service Section, Cost Section, Property Accounting Section, General Accounts Section, Rental and Collections, Invoice Audit, Disbursement & Reimbursement, Timekeeping, Payroll, Budget
  • Special Departments: Radio Station KRSN, Lodging and Eating, Los Alamos Hospital, Veterinary Hospital, Mesa Library, Youth Activities, Schools
  • Personnel Division: Files, Records & Reports; Job Evaluation; Employment; Employee Relations; Training
  • Safety Division: Investigation, Restricted Areas, Heavy Equipment, Const. and Maint., Trans. Shops
  • Warehouse Division: Warehousing Section, Property and Records, Typewriter Shop, Fuel Section, Procurement
  • Engineering Division: Inspection, Civil, Electrical, Mechanical, Architectural, Field Engineering, Records
  • Maintenance Division: Work Order & Property Section, Building Maintenance Sub-Div., Public Works Sub-Div., Tech. Maintenance Sub-Div., Utilities Sub-Div.
  • Transportation Division: Dispatching, Bus and Taxi Oper., Heavy Equipment, Stationary Equipment, Parts Department, Motor Vehicle Maint., Machine Shop

Okay, first off, can I draw your attention to a few things just to give you a laugh? Under the first bullet point of “Fiscal Division” we have an entire section devoted to IBM Service. For those of you who grew up with a LANL employee for a parent, those decommissioned and auctioned IBMs were the beginning of our home computing experience!

And under “Warehouse Division” we have a typewriter shop. Until word processors became mainstream, typewriters were a hot item at The Zia Company public auctions. More than a few mechanically inclined guys with a desire to bring in extra cash would pick them up, refurbish them, and sell them around town for a quick profit.

Ashley Pond circa 1957 – Do you recognize anything?

Beyond these amusing anecdotal bits about life in Los Alamos, pause for a moment and take in just how important The Zia Company was to life in Los Alamos. In the early days they ran KRSN (the radio station used to occupy a small building on North Mesa), the hospital, veterinary clinic, restaurants, library, schools, youth activities, bus and taxi services, all utilities, housing, maintenance, roads, and the list just goes on and on. Essentially everything that is now considered the responsibility of our Los Alamos County public services, plus so very many private institutions such as the hospital, animal clinics, and mental health and social services such as those offered by Los Alamos Family Council, were all handled by The Zia Company. They even ran a newspaper. The very first edition of The Zia News is dated August 26, 1949. Employees of The Zia Company got the latest edition every other week with their paycheck.

The Zia Company wasn’t a typical landlord either. At that time, residents of Los Alamos had been living in furnished dwellings. Most people were not encouraged to bring much of anything with them to Los Alamos. This meant that a service contract might include not only your toilet and your kitchen appliances, but repairs or replacement of your basic household furniture as well. Can you imagine the number of employees and the corresponding number of hours it took to keep our town running?

While most of the actual furniture was long ago donated to the Historical Society or has been worn out from use, certain household items marked with The Zia Company’s familiar logo still exist in and around Los Alamos. If your home was once on the Zia roster of available housing, you may find their stamp on the back of a bathroom mirror or on non exposed portions of your cabinetry. If you ever go to replace any of these items, please don’t take those Zia marked items to the transfer station before you give the Historical Society a call. They love Zia era memorabilia!

It’s so difficult for the modern mind to grasp the way it was back when Los Alamos had just been designated “a company town” by the Atomic Energy Commission. Now we think of multiple subcontractors at the Laboratory. Many residents are employed by the school district or the hospital. Some employees work at the county offices doing administrative work or even hard physical labor with the Parks & Rec department. But when Los Alamos was new. You either worked for the laboratory or you worked for The Zia Company. There was nobody else. The work was still too hush, hush to expand the pool of contractors.

Gradually, Los Alamos has been becoming its own independent town. It’s taken quite a lot of time. And there are still things to be done. When I get frustrated with how long something seems to be taking, I remind myself that The Zia Company left some big shoes to fill. And thankfully, most of us own our own furniture these days. We get to choose what veterinarian we want to use. We go to hospitals in Santa Fe and Albuquerque for specialty services instead of waiting what might seem like forever for someone to be brought up the hill. And yes. We’re still missing a few varied goods and services. But all in all, Los Alamos is an incredible place to live with an even more incredible history. And when you’re ready to join our community, give me a call! I’d love to chat real estate in Los Alamos!